T61 replacement fan pre thermal pasted?

I have a T61 7659 1PU with a rattling fan and in hopes of quieting it I bought a Furukawa 44C0825 from IBM online. It appears to have the thermal paste already applied but I am trying to get confirmation of this before I put it in. Also if that is the case, is the preapplied paste a decent quality or would I be better off cleaning that off and using the arctic silver arctic alumina that I have?

Well I put in the new fan and went ahead and removed the factory paste and used the Arctic Alumina. Can you hear the new fan...me either!!

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Laptop doesn't turn on after re-assembly and replacing thermal paste. Please help!

Hi,
I hope anyone can help me. I took apart my laptop HP HDX16 to replace thermal paste and clean up the fan. I did everything very carefully as showed in manual. I cleaned the old paste and pads off and replaced thermal paste but not the pads as someone in the store suggested that there is no need for putting pads and that the thermal compound is enough to have it on there. I left only one pad on the heat sink in place where it services Northbridge as it was in good condition. On the Northbridge itself I put thermal compound as well as on the GPU and CPU. I put back every screw and connected each cable as it was before (I am pretty sure about it). I was quite happy with my job but after I tried to turn the computer on it wouldn't start at all. Did I do something wrong? Please help me because I don't have any idea what to do now.

I am a little confused here, it sounds like you removed all the thermal pads except for one, if this is so, you need to put all the thermal pads back in place.
Anyways aside from that, if you plug the adapter in you will have a steady light where it plugs into the laptop. The light will always be on whether the machine is booted up or not.
If you don't have a steady light then you need to check the DC receptor where it plugs into the MoBo. Sometimes a cable may look like it's fully seated, but isn't. It still will boot up with the battery in place even if the DC jack plug is not correctly seated.
Check the small ribbon cable on the power button board where it connects into the MoBo.
Check that the processor is correctly aligned with it's key and that the locking mechanism is fully locked.
Make sure the RAM is seated correctly.
If these suggestions sound obvious, I have to start some where.
The problem here is that only you can help your self because you disassembled you machine, I can only make suggestions as what you may have missed and obviously something was missed.
If your thinking that you incorrectly applied the thermal paste, then that's not the problem. Even if there were no thermal pads or paste in place, the machine would still boot up, but it would heat up very quickly.
If the fan plug was plugged in incorrectly you would get a message in the BIOS upon boot up saying that the fan has a problem and it would shut down, but it sound like it's not even getting that far.
There is also a secondary fan that is used to cool the hard drive bays, check that plug as well. You may not get a BIOS message if this fan is not plugged in.
Here is the HP Media Services Library, you may find it helpful. Make sure you're signed in before clicking on the link.
http://h20574.www2.hp.com/default.htm?lang=en&cc=US&hpappid=psml
If you need help with the library, post again, give the video page time to load, the small video screen may stay black for a little while.

T60 replacement fan - thermal grease

My T60 fan started whining so IBM sent me a replacement fan and a tube of thermal grease - but the fan already has thermal grease on it.
The grease is actually a 5 x 7 matrix of 35 small dots of thermal grease. Everything I have ever read about applying thermal grease says that it should be applied in a very thin, smooth layer and these thermal grease dots don't seem consistent with that at all.
1. Should I flatten the dots and spread them out thinly? Or does IBM expect us to just install it as is - maybe the pressure applied upon installation is supposed to flatten the grease out appropriately?
2. Should I have some pure alcohol handy to clean off all of the old grease before replacing this fan?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

eetolaa, welcome to the forum,
the fans come with thermal paste already on them, all you need to do is remove the thin clear plastic from the grey thermal pads. The grey pads are thermal plastic and come attached to the fan.
Andy ______________________________________
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New Motherboard Replace: Part Numbers? and thermal paste?

I am replacing a new motherboard in my computer
-How do I take off the old thermal paste from the CPU and fan, do I use a paper towel? Or is there something safer?
-And how do I put on the new thermal paste and how much of it should I put on the CPU?
-Also what is the difference between a motherboard that reads on it in the middle:
MCP61PM-HM REV:2.2
15-V06-012200
and another motherboard that reads:
MCP61PM-HM REV:2.2
15-V06-01221
basically that last number on each motherboard, what does it mean and what's the difference between each motherboard?

Otwa, welcome to the forum.
Here is a very good video to help you with removing the thermal paste:
It is basically an advertisement for Arctic Silver products, but Paul from Newegg always does a great job of making a guide. I have been an overclocker for years and have always used Arctic Silver products. The two part kit of remover is new to me and something to try next time I replace the paste on a CPU.
I believe that there should be another number in 15-V06-01221. It should be 12201. If this is correct, I may be able to answer your questions.
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NX8800GT T2D512E OC : Thermal paste replacement ?

Hi there,
because of thermal issues -mainly with the RAM- on my NX8800GT T2D512E OC, and after some more or less succesful tests with different options (manual fan setting, add case fan, etc...), I would like to have the opinion of the community on an alternate solution.
I noticed that the thermal paste between the chips (GPU and RAM) and the heatsink is some kind of bubblegum of (I guess) poor quality. So I thought about replacing it by some better paste, like Arctic Silver.
Do you think that :
1- it can be done ? I guess that the contact can be achieved between the chips and the heatsink without problem... but....I'm not sure
2- the performance improvment will be real ?
Any feedback or personnal experience on that point would be great

Quote from: flobelix on 21-January-08, 23:15:24
As Aaron said Arctic Silver wouldn't be able to replace the thick heat pads used for the mem and without those will be fried in no time.
If you really wanna improve cooling of your GT use Accelero S1 Rev. 2 plus Turbo Module which is used by a manufacturer for an oc 8800GT.
An 8800GT example: http://www.arctic-cooling.com/vgapartners2.php?idx=148
An alternative would be Arctic Cooling Accelero Xtreme 8800 but it is not released yet.
Hi Flobelix,
problem with such replacement heatsinks with fans, is that -as far as I know- they do not use the power supply of the VGA itself, which means it can't be automatically controlled by the driver depending on its heat.
In that case, I have the choice between manually controlling it (I hate that) or suffering from its noise...
Anyway, both of you said that the AS5 won't be thick enough to have a contact between the chips and the heatsink.
On that point, I am not really sure : the heatsink is fixed to the car through screws pulled by springs. So if the height of the GPU and of the ram is reported on the heatsinks, a contact can be achieved.
And here is my (point 1) problem : I' m not sure of this...

Reapplied the thermal paste, now the fans kick in too early - downgrade FW?

First of all, I have not forgotten to attach the temp sensor as previously mentioned. I was quite lucky that everything went well.
My MBP is now 60 C top at almost full load (doing video at 80% load) and runs 48 in idle.
Which is incredible but it's also loud. Even when idle the fans run faster than the minimal speed, which is obviously caused by better heat conductance. When under load the fans quickly begin to spin full speed. As I said I havn't topped the 60 C mark yet.
Partly I think this has to do with the SMC firmware update, as Apple tweaked the fans to spin up earlier.
What I'm looking for is a way to get the old threshold setting back (the one before the smc firmware update). So that my MBP is as cold as possible but also more quiet than now.
And I read that there is a way of editing some powermanagment settings in order to change the threshold but havn't been able to google it.

Maybe it's my english, but the fans don't go full speed all the time. Now as I barely started the MBP and just surfed the internet a bit, I have fans running at their minimum.
And they stay on minimum as long as I don't do any harder work. Let's say start playing iTunes with visualization on.
As for the skills. I'm not professionally trained, but I've been building my own PCs for a couple of years now. Never laptops, obviously, as they come already built. And yes I also have a copy of the Service Manual that was floating around. I think I tend to infrom myself very carefully before doing any such work. That's probably I'm a medical student, which brings us to thermodynamics.
Apple defenitely applied too much termal paste, which has the effect that instead of filling in only the microscopic spaces of air between the heatsink and CPU, the thermal paste actually forms a layer between the CPU and heatsink. And generally speaking the thermal grease is a worse conductor than the CPU/Heatsink junction, but still much better than small spaces of air that would be between the CPU and Heatsink if no thermal paste was applied.
Strangely my girlfriend has a MBP which doesn't get as hot as mine. But her was bought in august, mine in april, so Apple might have looked into the problem themself.
About the Apple support thing:
I'm from Slovenia, the official Apple seller ( www.epl.si ) has a very rude way of customer support. Luckily I live very near the Austrian border, so I bought my MBP in Austria.
Well it seems to me that controlling the fans isn't yet possible on the MBP, as noone was able to point into any direction.

Reapply thermal paste? Last gen black MacBook fans running.

Hi.
I have a black MacBook (MacBook4,1) that seems to get pretty hot sometimes. It happens even when I'm not running Illustrator, Aperture, or Photoshop. It can also happen when I visit a site without flash.
I had to replace the top case last year because someone poured water into the keyboard.
I'm thinking I may have ruptured or otherwise unseated the heatsinks, which may have displaced some of the thermal paste's contact with the heatsink. The computer was purchased in early 2008, so it's kind of old.
Would it benefit me to replace the thermal paste between the processor and the heatsink? How much of a pain is it to do that?

My computer is a bit older than yours and I have never seen that problem with this machine.
Have you checked Activity Monitor (Applications>Utilities) to see if any processes are using more than 30% of your CPU?
~Lyssa

Can/Should the North Bridge thermal paste be replaced ????

Hi to all,
I have a 865PE Neo2 LS and I was wondering if anyone have replaced the thermal paste bettwen the North Bridge chipset and it's cooler? I'm asking because I bought the Ceramique, a very good thermal compound from Artic Silver (http://www.arcticsilver.com/ceramique.htm), and I applyed it to my CPU. It gives me 42 degrees Celsius in CoreCenter at full load. My CPU is a 2.6 GHz and nothing is overclocked. So, I was wondering if I could apply it to the North Bridge.
If there is a MSI engineer reading this, could you please tell me the specs of the thermal compound used in this board or tell me if it is worth replacing it?
Regards,

I just installed the gold Zalman NB HS with Arctic Silver 5 and a paper clip. Here's how it works:
If you get a big paper clip [standard large office size] and flatten it out and then re-purpose it into the appropriate springy shape with with needle-nose pliers, you can make your own retention spring. It's a bit tricky getting it tightened up properly and sticking the pliers in there is not for the fumble-fingered -- I have to admit that my wife was doing some of the precision work at the end -- but my system has no complaints 20 minutes later with Arctic Silver in there.
I used a needlenose set of pliers (precise twisting), a standard pair of pliers (general flattening), and the wire cutters on the needlenose pliers (because the flat paper clip is much too long).
Now all I have to do is shut that darned video card up and I should be doing pretty well.
Hope it helps! (and that I've not steered you wrong as it's only been working for 20 minutes thus far...)
::Kaze (goes to run a stress test)

Replacing thermal paste : void warrantly?

Hi, I would like to know if unmounting the cooler of my R9 290 Gaming 4G for the purpose of replacing the thermal paste would void the warrantly. Thanks very much

Hello,
The answer is no* :
Now the little catch ( * ): If you break something or damage while repasting, the warranty will be void. So be careful with that.
EDIT:
However this might be different depending on location. In EU and USA it's allowed as above. If you live somewhere else, best if you ask MSI about this first: >>How to contact MSI.<<

Thermal paste and mb replacement

has any one who reapplied the thermal paste tried to call apple to ask for a MB replacement(for getting rid of the whine)? would apple allow it?

The thermal paste issue is not considered a problem that needs repair. Thankfully, it does impact performance drastically, although one must ask why a company that prides itself on quality would allow a contracter to provide motherboards with CPU's floating in grease. I am guessing it was the rapid roll-out, and the fact that these "high end" machines are produced in mainland China, not Taiwan or other locations. I have a replaced logic board and a replaced battery. My laptop is significantly warped. I wont complain further.
My plea is for all of us to hold Apple to it's warranty. Thankfully, I puchased AppleCare, which obviously will be neeed. I hope for some sort of recall, and a dramatic focus on the next MacBook Pro that demonstrates correction of these problems. Having them built in mainland China is a profit move, not one for quality. Far better manufacturers exist in Taiwan. let's see what happens. If nothing does, I think that the free market will speak. Apple has not increased it's share of the laptop market. If they don't get this act together, I can say tha there will be one less purchase in the future. I really want Apple to succeed, but it won't happen if they cannot address their niche 3% market with a machine that is worth the "Apple Premium".

Macbook pro 2012 - Thermal paste replacement time?

Hello!
My macbook pro mid-2012 is roughly 1 year old. I was wondering what is the recommended time frame to replace the thermal paste. With my old 2010 macbook I replaced the grease several years later, but I dont wanna make the same mistake again.
So how long do you guys think the crappy apple thermal paste can handle before the performance starts dropping and heat starts increasing?
On another note, I think it's common knowledge that factory thermal paste must be replaced in all notebooks/laptops, no matter the brand. However, I also heard that apple changed the manufacturing process after 2011, and all 2012 models had their thermal pastes decently applier. I'm not sure if thats just a rumor though.
What do you think?

Granted, this sort of thing likely voids your warranty (as you noted, it's not something Apple recommends or intends for the user to do). So you're certainly taking the chances into your own hands.
I suppose the best way to know would be to get an app or tool that can help you monitor the CPU temperature. Keep an eye on it, and if it starts to run hotter on a regular basis, consider cracking it open and "topping it off".

Replacing thermal paste R9 290 Gaming 4G, warranty question

Hi! I would like to replace the thermal paste of my GPU. Does removing the cooler to do this voids the warranty? Moreover, can the thermal pads can be re-utilized?
Thanks very much!

Quote from: sales on 11-June-15, 12:52:04
may someone confirm rma without sticker?
I believe you were redirected to contact your card seller or local MSI office? >>How to contact MSI.<<
Usually it does not void warranty if you remove it/break it (as its on a screw) but it still depends on the country you live in and its best to confirm with reseller(shop) or MSI office.

WANT TO CHANGE MY T61's FAN,HELP!

My machine has been used for 2 years more, the fan is still good, but i think the there must be wear that affects the the fan's ability to perform as well as a new fan, so I just want to call lenovo to replace my fan without significant reason, is that possible ?, BTW I bought in singapore .
Any reply is appreciated
Regards
Steven

If you're comfortable opening up the case and doing a little minor work, then just do this:
I had an issue with my T61 overheating, but in this case, it was actually shutting the computer down when doing CPU-intensive tasks.
I went to a computer parts store, bought a good tube of thermal paste (cost like $15) and some compressed air. Get the good stuff if you have a good processor. It works much better than the stock stuff.
First unplug your laptop, take the battery out, then Unscrew the Screws at the bottom that hold the palmrest, Keyboard down (they'll be marked) then the screws that hold the bezel (not marked).
Once those are off, draw a quick sketch of the inside components, and as you take screws out, label on your sketch the size/colour of the screw, so everything goes back in correctly.
Then, you'll need to take the top left speaker out, and two metal 'arms' that hold the Fan in place. The fan should then pop out. If there's another screw I'm forgetting about, take it out too.
On the fan, your CPU and GPU, there will be old thermal paste. With a lint-free cloth, with a bit of 70% rubbing alcohol, clean the paste off. Be sure to use something that won't leave residue. Things like TP, kleenex, etc are bad. Coffee Filters work pretty well.
Now with the compressed air, spray out the inside of yoru laptop, spray the fan out well, and anything else that looks dusty.
Now put a bit of the thermal paste on the CPU and GPU, and pop the fan unit back in place, screw it in immediately. Put the rest of the components back together, and while you're at it, take the time to blow out your keyboard, as I'm sure its full of dust, crumbs ,hair, and other fun stuff.
This would likely solve your problem for under $20. And best yet, you don't have to ship your laptop away for a few weeks.
In my case, I thought there were bigger problems. After shutting down, sometimes the battery/plugin, etc. lights would turn off too, and the laptop wouldn't turn back on unless I replaced the battery. I thought the jack or something was broken.
After cleaning/replacing the fan, I haven't had an issue at all, its been a few months. I can encode video, run graphically intensive programs/games, etc. without an issue. CPU/GPU temps don't get nearly as bad as they did.
T61 15.4" T9300 (2.5GHz 6MB L2) Windows 7 Professional x64 4GB Memory, NVidia Quadro NVS 140M

MacBook Pro (mid 2010, 15", i5) - heat, thermal paste and genius bar...

Hi all,
I'd like some advice. I own a mid 2010 core i5 15" MBP which I purchased when they were released (April 2010 or something like that). Since then the laptop has worked more or less OK but it's always been plagued with high temperatures, 75C+ in idle... with basically nothing running or something light such as just Safari (*without* Flash, as I only open Chrome when a website I need doesn't work without Flash; everywhere else, for example YouTube etc, I just use the HTML5 version of the players). The fans stay almost always at 6K rpm, and only rarely they run at a lower speed - when for example I switch the laptop on after having left it switched off for a while, etc. So the fans seem to work OK and seem to respond to the temperature; I have even tried resetting SMC several times, but no difference.
It just looks like the CPU runs hotter than it should. I have default energy saving settings, and don't have any software installed that may keep the CPU running high - such as Caffeine, SmartSleep, etc. Anyway, even a clean install of the OS (Lion) won't make any difference. If I leave the laptop switched off for a while and I switch it on again, within a minute or two the temperature is high again even if I don't open anything else. Even if in the activity monitor there's nothing using a lot of CPU. The temperature also does go further up if I run something CPU intensive such as Handbrake.
While the laptop has worked almost always OK (I do think that some freezes or other occasional stability issues may also depend on temperature), I don't think it's running as well as it could / should from a temperature point of view.
I have read lots of discussions in here and elsewhere, and from direct experience with other laptops (Apple and not) in the past, I believe the issue may likely be related to poor application of the thermal paste. I could re-apply it (for example the AS5 or similar) myself very easily, but I don't want to void the warranty.
I have the 3-years Apple Care, but I have never needed to ask Apple for support before, so I don't know how it works.
Sorry for the lengty introduction... here's the questions:
- Can I just go to the nearest Apple Store (London, Regent St.) or am I *required* to book an appointment with the "genius" bar?
- Is it likely they will take into consideration my advice to reapply the thermal paste as this is quite likely the source of the problem?
- What is the likelihood that they may just replace my laptop with a newer one?
- Does the AppleCare entitle me with some particular privileges for what concerns support?
- I have also upgraded the RAM to 8GB a few months ago, and replaced the HDD (which I use as external drive) with an SSD. Do I need to restore the original components in the laptop before going to the AppleStore? Or is this not needed since RAM and HDD are user-replaceable parts?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
Vito

Hello V-MA!
I found this webpage: http://osx86.wikidot.com/known-issues#toc1
by googeling for "com.apple.NVDAResman"
Probably you have to remove the Geforce Grafic drivers as discribed here. But please wait until some others in the forum confirm this.
If you don't understand how to do these commands with Terminal, ask once again for help.
In your message you did not metion, that you just updated 1 hour and something your OS ("System uptime in nanoseconds: 6688834587150"). This is an important information.
marek

MBP and the Thermal Paste Discussions

I've read with interest the postings on this web site regarding the MBP heat issues and the possibility that too much thermal paste is causing that problem. I've spent quite a few years designing computer motherboards using Intel processor chips, and want to share some thoughts on the topic. I only mention my background because one thing this business has taught me is that we can all be easily mislead by our test data if our process for gathering the data isn't rigorous (and, believe me, I've learned that lesson many times).
First, the excess thermal paste is definitely a problem, regardless of whether it is the root cause of the heat issue. Some of the photos posted on the various web sites show thermal paste covering bypass capacitors on the chip carriers (the green fiberglass boards that carry the CPU and GPU die). Thermal pastes can cause stray capacitances that can interfere with circuit operation. Standard industry practice is to use only as much paste as is necessary to achieve a layer that is about as thin as a single layer of tissue paper (or less). The amount used by Apple is far too large, particularly because the paste in coming into contact with other electrical components and conductors. A common failure mode associated with degraded bypass capacitors is random (and unrepeatable) crashes due to corrupted digital data in the processor chip.
In addition, all thermal pastes contain various types of fluids. Over time, these fluids evaporate, and frequently they condense elsewhere inside a computer. When CD drives were first introduced years ago, a common cause of mid-lifetime failures was condensates on the optics of the laser. The condensation fogs the lens and interferes with the ability of the laser to focus while reading and writing data. The contamination was traced to outgassing by thermal pastes, greases, sulfurized elastomers, and similar items used to build the computer. (Note that the Apple service manual for the MBP refers to the thermal paste as “thermal grease”.) Consumer electronics manufacturers learned to minimize the use of such materials in computer designs. The amount of thermal paste shown in the Apple service manual is very large, and I wouldn't rule out that it might contribute to future DVD drive failures.
It is difficult to say, based on the available data, that reducing the amount of thermal paste actually contributes to improving the thermal behavior of the MBP. Part of the problem is that the procedure to remove the pastes involves disassembling the laptop, and this introduces the possibility that the disassembly/reassembly process is inadvertently fixing the problem.
First, the high case temperatures could be the result of loose or poorly placed thermal sensors. If the disassembly/reassembly process fixed a loose sensor, or loose sensor electrical connection, or placed the sensor in a better position, you would get lower case temperatures, and possibly (inadvertently) attribute this to less paste.
Second, the cooling system design in the MBP requires that the die caps on the chip carriers be pressed tightly against the pads on the heat sink, so that heat is transferred efficiently. If the MBP is not assembled properly, (i.e., if the logic board mounting screws are not properly torqued, or the logic board is not mechanically aligned properly to ensure a tight fit to the heat sink), it is possible that this will manifest itself as high case temperatures. In the Intel processor chips there are two paths for heat to travel – out of the die cap, and through the electrical contacts to the motherboard. If the die cap isn’t properly cooled, heat will instead go into the motherboard, and the case temperature will rise. There is a possibility that the disassembly/reassembly process will fix a loose or misaligned logic board problem, with the result that the case temp will be reduced.
Also, if you work through the details of the thermal model that results from excess paste, it's hard to see how it would result in more heat to the case and less to the heat sink. Most of the photos on the web appear to show thin paste on top of the die, indicating that there was probably a low thermal resistance path to the heat sink prior to disassembly. The excess paste to the sides will simply further reduce the thermal resistance between the chip carrier and the heat sink. I may be missing something, but it's hard to envision how this lower thermal resistivity between the CPU and the heat sink drives more heat into the case. But it is also possible that the disassembly process destroys evidence of the actual connection to the heat sink, so this failure mode is hard to judge.
The best way to determine if removing the excess paste is actually helping would be to measure the exhaust air temperature from the cooling fans before and after removing the excess paste. I haven't seen such data, but if it were taken, and showed that the exhaust air was at a significantly higher temperature after the fix than before it, then we would know that the fix worked. If not, then the heat is going elsewhere, and it is possible that fix has actually made things worse.
Finally, all the symptoms we're seeing can be explained by poor software calibration and/or incorrect software control of the CPU clock speed. I wouldn't rule out a software fix at his point.
I'm not saying removing the paste is not a fix, only that there are still open questions that remain to be answered. It would be hard for me to recommend that anyone rework an MBP for the thermal problem in the absence of additional data.
For myself, I own an MBP, and though I have access to an electronics lab and some great technicians, I intend to buy Applecare, and in the meantime wait for a fix (or at least more information) from Apple.
Best of luck to everyone who has this issue - thats what we get for being early adopters.
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)

Well I replaced my thermal compound and the temperature on my cpu went down and the temperature of my case went down also. The fans also kick in sooner leaving me to believe that the heat is being properly distributed the heatsink whereas before it was not as there was too much thermal compound making it act like an insulator.
I cannot say if the exhaust air is any hotter, but I know overall my laptop is much more cooler and never gets extremely HOT. Even under heavy loads the areas where it used to get really hot, above f keys, palm area, underneath the MBP are not hot to the point where someone could burn themself at all.
I really do hope that Apple does address this issue because I could not live with the heat before, I always had to hook up an external keyboard because my hands got too sweaty from the palm rest and the keyboard. Now everything is operating like any other laptop I've owned and I am a very satisifed Apple user. Let's hope that Apple is really looking into it and will have a reasonable answers for all MBP users in a reasonable amount of time.

T61 replacement fan pre thermal pasted?

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