Temperature is key

I started my first initial backup to Time Capsule last night (94 Gb), with an ethernet connection. It was going pretty slow, until the middle of the day today when it appeared to completely stall. My iStat was reporting no throughput through ethernet. I remembered that it was going okay last night and today the TC was really hot. Out of ideas, I thought maybe temperature had something to do with it. I hooked up a fan pointing at the TC, and low and behold it started transferring faster (>5 mb/s). My ambient room temperature was only 70-72 degrees, but I guess that was warm enough for the "server grade" hard drive to get too warm. Just a cautionary tale for those of you who are having issues with very slow initial backups through ethernet. If all else fails, try reducing the temperature!

Every piece of Apple gear I have owned has had pretty high operating temperatures. Both my current MB Pro and my old PB G4 get quit hot on the bottom, especially when performing processor intensive applications. My TC and Apple TV are also noticeably warm, even when they are inactive. The good news, though, is that I have never had a heat related problem, not only with my newer gear, but the old PB, which I have owned for 5 years and counting.
I should add that my daughter’s fiancé has a new MacBook and it gets just as warm as my gear does but has performed flawlessly. Thus, while I suppose that a heat issue could contribute to a TC’s slow transfer speed, without some indication other than the heat of the enclosure, I would tend to doubt it.

Similar Messages

What should my Macbook fan speed be? and battery help

My mac goes hot real easy and my battery goes down really quick. Ive tried doing what websites have told me to do (Eg. Turn down brighness) but not helping at all. HELP

There is a free to download App called iStat, which will run in dashboard.
This will enable you to see actual temperatures at key points in the Macbook (CPU etc). It will also tell you fan speeds etc (but take care interpreting such information. It's at best a 'relative' tool)
Here is the link;
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/
If you're still worried after you see real figures, post again with the temps etc.

MBP - feel very hot on keyboard

MBP -
the surface temperature of key board plane is very hot ( 107F ) when in normal operation without plug in the charger. Is it normal ???

The temperatures that your MBP will generate are a function of the number and types of applications in use. Until that is information is provided, no valid advice can be afforded you.
If you want to pursue this, download and install iStat menus:
http://bjango.com/mac/istatmenus/
Open Activity Monitor to ALL PROCESSES and set CPU to display values from high to low.
When you believe that your MBP is 'hot', take screen shots of both and post the images for inspection.
Ciao.

Satellite M40-244 stops suddenly - cooling/temperature issue?

Hello everybody!
For about 1 week, my laptop M40-244 has become unable of cooling itself! So, off course, more and more often, it stops suddenly in order to avoid damage. I'm sure this problem is triggered off by cooling, simply in touching the left side of the key board it's easy to me to feel the high temperature 8-(
My QUESTION is : is it possible for me to avoid repairing???
I'm in Shanghai, I can not phone without expensive fees, and surprisingly I did not find in Toshiba website any way to contact a Toshiba support by e-mail (if anyone knows a way, please tell me!)
Because it is very curious : my laptop is "8-months-old", never this kind of problem until now and Toshiba is wellknown for a good system of cooling. Recently, my laptop has not known any shock. Would it possible that the fan has suddenly stopped working well?
So, I tried to "check" my laptop, but the installation of Speedfan failed, and Motherboard Monitor 5 seems unadapted to the M40-244, it is totally unable of finding any board sensor! Now, I have seen in some forums and website the possibility of the "underclocking", or a way of "reinitializing" the fan from the BIOS, but, oula!, I'm not a specialist! What does it mean? It is possible with a notebook or it is only possible with a PC?
Here we go! So, I can go to a Toshiba store and I have warranty, but it is bound to mean 1 week without my laptop and professionaly it is extremely ennoying for me!
Sorry, I'm a bit long, and sorry for my English (I'm French!), but IF ANYONE KNOWS A WAY THAT ENABLES ME TO SOLVE THIS COOLING PROBLEM BY MYSELF, please tell me!
Thanks in advance,
Fred

Hi Fred
The vacuum cleaner cleaning procedure is not bad and very easy but you have to do it careful. But if it doesn't help you should contact the Toshiba service partner.
The fact is that your notebook is covered by warranty and if there is a serious problem with the cooling module and the fans the service partner should check it.
If you will click on this link you will find the list of the Toshiba ASPs:
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/su/su_gaspLocator.jsp?pf=true
Additionally you should check the settings in the Power saver because this Toshiba tool controls the usage of the CPU and the cooling method.
good luck

Losing network connection and NIC acts weird from warm/hot weather/temperatures?

Hello.
Is there a known issue on MSI P43 NEO3-F (MSI-7514) motherboards' onboard RealTek RTL8168C (P)/8111C(P) PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC network disconnecting and acting weird during warm/hot weather?
I noticed lately and back on 1/11/2009 night when weather got warm/hot (e.g., my room can get over 85F degrees, but lately it has been 80F degrees), my network would lose its connection. See http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5580/screenshots.gif for a few SpeedFan's sensor readings when the incidents occurred. I have never seen this happen when the weather is cooler (60-70F degrees in my room).
I also think this only happens if I am using the PC lightly (nothing intensive) like watching fullscreen videos (video overlay), surfing the Web, etc. I don't see any errors or evidences that it happens when idled (e.g., asleep or out). Uptime doesn't seem to matter since I have seen days to 3.5 hours.
I tried upgrading network driver twice (e.g., Realtek_XP_5714_0219 from
http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/downloadsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=13&PFid=5&Level=5&Conn=4&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false ...), disabling Kerio Personal Firewall v2.1.5 (XP's disabled already), releasing and renewing IP address (works, but still no network -- can't even ping my router!), unplugging and replugging the cat5 cable (do see the network port lights on), touching the network jack and hardware inside and outside of the case (not hot), trying another cat5 cable and a network port on a switch instead router's), changing from "Minimal Power Management" to full power (no underclocking/slowing down when idled), etc.
During the disconnections, I tried:
C:\>tracert 192.168.0.1
Tracing route to 192.168.0.1 over a maximum of 30 hops
1 * * * Request timed out.
2 * * * Request timed out.
3 * * ^C
IPCONFIG.EXE /ALL when having network problems:
Windows IP Configuration
Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : FOOBAR
Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . :
Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
Ethernet adapter VMware Network Adapter VMnet8:
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : VMware Virtual Ethernet Adapter for VMnet8
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-50-56-C0-00-08
Dhcp Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.134.1
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . :
Ethernet adapter VMware Network Adapter VMnet1:
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : VMware Virtual Ethernet Adapter for VMnet1
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-50-56-C0-00-01
Dhcp Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.80.1
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . :
Ethernet adapter HDTV Tuner 2:
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : TechniSat DVB-PC TV Star PCI #3
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-D0-D7-30-19-C1
Dhcp Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 169.254.178.3
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . :
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 169.254.178.1
Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Saturday, February 28, 2009 6:55:04 PM
Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Monday, July 13, 2009 11:28:08 PM
Ethernet adapter HDTV Tuner 1:
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : TechniSat DVB-PC TV Star PCI
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-D0-D7-30-1A-1D
Dhcp Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 169.254.178.4
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . :
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 169.254.178.1
Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Saturday, February 28, 2009 6:55:21 PM
Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Monday, July 13, 2009 11:28:25 PM
Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection 15:
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek RTL8168C(P)/8111C(P) PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-21-85-1A-C6-72
Dhcp Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.82
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
4.2.2.1
I checked Windows XP Pro. SP3's event logs and noticed these during the disconnections:
Event logs showed:
Event Type: Information
Event Source: Tcpip
Event Category: None
Event ID: 4201
Date: 2/28/2009
Time: 6:42:23 PM
User: N/A
Computer: FOOBAR
Description:
The system detected that network adapter \DEVICE\TCPIP_{51FDDE0F-0935-416E-8FE0-3E1A50847D41} was connected to the network, and has initiated normal operation over the network adapter.
For more information, see Help and Support Center at
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/events.asp.
Data:
0000: 00 00 00 00 02 00 50 00 ......P.
0008: 00 00 00 00 69 10 00 40 ....i..@
0010: 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0018: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0020: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
Event Type: Information
Event Source: BROWSER
Event Category: None
Event ID: 8033
Date: 2/28/2009
Time: 6:47:22 PM
User: N/A
Computer: FOOBAR
Description:
The browser has forced an election on network \Device\NetBT_Tcpip_{89F40100-0D8D-4C33-A32D-3D91CAEB3FBD} because a master browser was stopped.
For more information, see Help and Support Center at
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/events.asp.
Event Type:   Information
Event Source:   Tcpip
Event Category:   None
Event ID:   4201
Date:      3/1/2009
Time:      6:19:08 AM
User:      N/A
Computer:   FOOBAR
Description:
The system detected that network adapter \DEVICE\TCPIP_{51FDDE0F-0935-416E-8FE0-3E1A50847D41} was connected to the network, and has initiated normal operation over the network adapter.
For more information, see Help and Support Center at
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/events.asp.
Data:
0000: 00 00 00 00 02 00 50 00 ......P.
0008: 00 00 00 00 69 10 00 40 ....i..@
0010: 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0018: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0020: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
Event Type:   Information
Event Source:   Tcpip
Event Category:   None
Event ID:   4201
Date:      3/1/2009
Time:      6:19:20 AM
User:      N/A
Computer:   FOOBAR
Description:
The system detected that network adapter \DEVICE\TCPIP_{51FDDE0F-0935-416E-8FE0-3E1A50847D41} was connected to the network, and has initiated normal operation over the network adapter.
For more information, see Help and Support Center at
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/events.asp.
Data:
0000: 00 00 00 00 02 00 50 00 ......P.
0008: 00 00 00 00 69 10 00 40 ....i..@
0010: 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0018: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
0020: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........
I also noticed the disconnections usually start with red X icon in my taskbar with its bubble and then later the long disconnection even though no red X (1 GB and connected). If I were to disconnect the cat5 cable from NIC, then it wouldn't even detect it is missing the cable!
The only way to fix this was to reboot (best way and last longer) OR disable network connection and re-enable it (Windows XP's Network Connections) or the NIC itself (Device Manager), but that doesn't always last long (maybe a minute). Example of my pings right after disabling and re-enabling NIC:
C:\>ping 192.168.0.1 -t
Pinging 192.168.0.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Request timed out.
Reply from 192.168.0.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=150
Reply from 192.168.0.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=150
Reply from 192.168.0.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=150
Request timed out.
Reply from 192.168.0.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=150
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Reply from 192.168.0.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=150
MSINFO32 in case it helps (seems OK to me, but I am not a hardware expert):
[Conflicts/Sharing]
Resource   Device
I/O Port 0x00000000-0x00000CF7   PCI bus
I/O Port 0x00000000-0x00000CF7   Direct memory access controller
I/O Port 0x000003C0-0x000003DF   Intel(R) 4 Series Chipset PCI Express Root Port - 2E21
I/O Port 0x000003C0-0x000003DF   ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series
IRQ 21   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A38
IRQ 21   OHCI Compliant IEEE 1394 Host Controller
IRQ 21   TechniSat DVB-PC TV Star PCI
IRQ 23   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A34
IRQ 23   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 3A3A
I/O Port 0x0000B000-0x0000BFFF   Intel(R) 4 Series Chipset PCI Express Root Port - 2E21
I/O Port 0x0000B000-0x0000BFFF   ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series
IRQ 16   Intel(R) 4 Series Chipset PCI Express Root Port - 2E21
IRQ 16   ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series
IRQ 16   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A37
IRQ 16   Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
IRQ 16   Intel(R) ICH10 Family PCI Express Root Port 2 - 3A42
IRQ 16   Intel(R) ICH10 Family PCI Express Root Port 6 - 3A4A
IRQ 16   ASUS TV880 Video Capture (NTSC)
IRQ 17   Microsoft UAA Bus Driver for High Definition Audio
IRQ 17   Intel(R) ICH10 Family PCI Express Root Port 1 - 3A40
IRQ 17   Realtek RTL8168C(P)/8111C(P) PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC
Memory Address 0xD0000000-0xDFFFFFFF   Intel(R) 4 Series Chipset PCI Express Root Port -
2E21
Memory Address 0xD0000000-0xDFFFFFFF   ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series
IRQ 18   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 3A3C
IRQ 18   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A36
IRQ 19   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A39
IRQ 19   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A35
IRQ 19   Intel(R) ICH10 Family 4 port Serial ATA Storage Controller 1 - 3A20
IRQ 19   Intel(R) ICH10 Family 2 port Serial ATA Storage Controller 2 - 3A26
Memory Address 0xA0000-0xBFFFF   PCI bus
Memory Address 0xA0000-0xBFFFF   Intel(R) 4 Series Chipset PCI Express Root Port - 2E21
Memory Address 0xA0000-0xBFFFF   ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series
Memory Address 0xFED90000-0xFED93FFF   System board
Memory Address 0xFED90000-0xFED93FFF   System board
I/O Port 0x000003B0-0x000003BB   Intel(R) 4 Series Chipset PCI Express Root Port - 2E21
I/O Port 0x000003B0-0x000003BB   ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series
[IRQs]
Resource   Device   Status
IRQ 9   Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System   OK
IRQ 16   Intel(R) 4 Series Chipset PCI Express Root Port - 2E21   OK
IRQ 16   ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series   OK
IRQ 16   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A37   OK
IRQ 16   Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller   OK
IRQ 16   Intel(R) ICH10 Family PCI Express Root Port 2 - 3A42   OK
IRQ 16   Intel(R) ICH10 Family PCI Express Root Port 6 - 3A4A   OK
IRQ 16   ASUS TV880 Video Capture (NTSC)   OK
IRQ 17   Microsoft UAA Bus Driver for High Definition Audio   OK
IRQ 17   Intel(R) ICH10 Family PCI Express Root Port 1 - 3A40   OK
IRQ 17   Realtek RTL8168C(P)/8111C(P) PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC   OK
IRQ 21   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A38   OK
IRQ 21   OHCI Compliant IEEE 1394 Host Controller   OK
IRQ 21   TechniSat DVB-PC TV Star PCI   OK
IRQ 19   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A39   OK
IRQ 19   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A35   OK
IRQ 19   Intel(R) ICH10 Family 4 port Serial ATA Storage Controller 1 - 3A20   OK
IRQ 19   Intel(R) ICH10 Family 2 port Serial ATA Storage Controller 2 - 3A26   OK
IRQ 18   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 3A3C   OK
IRQ 18   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A36   OK
IRQ 23   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Universal Host Controller - 3A34   OK
IRQ 23   Intel(R) ICH10 Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 3A3A   OK
IRQ 20   Creative SB Audigy 2 ZS (WDM)   OK
IRQ 22   TechniSat DVB-PC TV Star PCI #3   OK
IRQ 0   System timer   OK
IRQ 8   System CMOS/real time clock   OK
IRQ 13   Numeric data processor   OK
IRQ 4   Communications Port (COM1)   OK
IRQ 6   Standard floppy disk controller   OK
IRQ 1   Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard   OK
IRQ 12   Microsoft PS/2 Mouse   OK
IRQ 14   Intel(R) ICH10 Family SMBus Controller - 3A30   OK
My detailed computer configurations can be found here: http://alpha.zimage.com/~ant/antfarm/about/computers.txt (primary computer).
Thank you in advance.

Quote from: NovJoe on 02-March-09, 23:10:05
Force your NIC to run at 100Mbps full duplex and see how it goes.
Check your router / switch ports as well as cables.
I will try 100 Mbps if it happens again. So far, it hasn't occurred after installing the driver supplied by MSI's Web site and not RealTek's Web site. The room temperatures even got warmer like 83F degrees.
As for router and switch, what am I checking for? Other computers didn't have any problems. As for cat5 cables, I already tried another one like I said in my original post.

MacBook Pro (mid 2012) reaches quite high temperatures. Is this normal?

I'm currently using a mid 2012 Macbook Pro with the 15" high resolution screen add-on (it's the model that was released alongside the new retina versions). The processor is a 2.6 GHz Intel Core i7.
I've seen a lot of claims about MacBooks running at high temperatures, but I've hardly seen numbers as high as mine. I've had my MacBook reach 100 °C (212 °F) up to 105 °C (221 °F) in some situations (such as when compiling software). I've seen 105 °C being reported as a critical temperature at which the system might decide to shut down to protect itself, so I'm worried that this might be an unnatural temperature and that it might be affecting the lifespan of my PC.
I've also experienced cases where, while being on charge but idle (or running non-intensive tasks such as text editing or watching non-HD videos), the PC would at some point begin spinning the fans to very high speeds and reaching temperatures between 85 °C (185 °F) and 95 °C (203 °F). The aluminum body of the computer gets very hot (especially near the hinge where the screen is attached) and in some cases my fingers can feel the unconfortable temperature even when just typing on the keys. I should note that this is happening during the summer, during which the temperatures outside float around 32 °C (89 °F), but I'm still worried it could keep happening later on during the year.
My warranty is expiring in a month so I'm wondering whether I should get my pc checked before it's over.
What do you think about these temperatures? Is there anything I should worry about? Should I contact Apple?

You can ship your MBP for examination and servicing by contacting Apple, but you will be without the MBP for a period of time. First determine you warranty status:
https://selfsolve.apple.com/agreementWarrantyDynamic.do
Create a time line of MUST dates for shipping and/or a trip to an Apple store.
In the interim, lets see if we can do something positive. In addition to what I suggested earlier, run an Apple Hardware test:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1509
You may have to use OPTION D to start it.
Ciao.

Few keys won't work after coffee spill

I realize this subject has been beaten to death because I have done searches here and Google multiple times but I can't seem to find a precise answer for my problem. Yesterday, around noon, my daughter spilled some coffee on the keys of my aluminum 13" Macbook. I wiped it off immediately and powered the laptop down. I read some tutorials on removing the keys so I decided to do that and wipe up some of the spilled coffee from under the keys. I put all the keys back and I turned my computer on this morning only to find that none of my keys worked, but the mouse pad still works fine. I plugged an external keyboard in and continued to log in. I opened Word and began typing and about 1/2 of my keys began to work. The "L" key opens up Spaces instead of typing the letter "L". So, a few questions:
Is it possible I didn't clean the keys good enough and that is why some of them are not working?
Is my Macbook, late 2008 aluminum 13" considered a unibody style?
I'm having trouble finding information on my specific Mac body style. I'd like to search for some tutorials on how to get a better view point of the keyboard to see if I can clean it a little better. I am prepared with the fact that I may need to buy a new keyboard. Also, I live about 4.5 hours from the nearest Apple store so that is out of the question. Thank you in advance for any help.

hi, calleasto
sorry to hear about this mishappen. I recognize it, since it happened to me a few years ago, also my daughter pooring thee (not coffee - but the difference is marginal - ) into an external keyboard. I took it apart and cleaned and dried it very carefully, but never got it working again. This was an external keyboard.
a similar failure occurred to other people with they laptop keyboards (and to me, without "using" any liquid). I presume - without knowing really the interiors of the laptop keyboards - that (1) they are read out in a kind of matrix (sensitive bars arranged in rows and (almost) columns corresponding to keys), which needs two layers of contact strips; and that (2) the layers are separated by plastic sheets.
Your diagnostics seems to imply that
1) there are still bad contacts (might be liquid where it shouldn't be);
2) the contact point has shifted ;
The latter could perhaps be due to liquid shifting the pressure away from the point where it should be applied.
What i would do:
Give the keyboard much time for drying - perhaps by removing the keys again. But there is always the chance that the temperature of the coffee, and the residues are causing troubles and might cause some keys not to function properly.
I think (i am not sure !!) you have a "unibody": i think it is "unique " in the sense that it has no screws (except at the bottom) - and no Firewire outlet. I have never opened my MB, but the only way i see for opening it is from the bottom (there are 4 screws at mine) - but i do not know whether it is advisable to open it. I would check via Phone with Apple before doing anything myself.
Hope this helps.
Thomas

Hight temperature, low fans speed. A problem_

I have a problem with OS 10.8.3 on macbook pro retina 15.
When temperature increases, above 75°C, I notice no change in fans speed, not increase.
Only with a external program (the smcfan control) is possible to increase speed and decrease the temperature.
Anyone else have this problem?

The first thing you should do is to reset the SMC > http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
If it doesn't work, you may have a hardware problem, so connect your computer to a power source and run Apple Hardware Test > http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1509 To start in Apple Hardware Test, hold Option (Alt) and D keys while the Mac is starting.
Then, select your language, mark the option for extended mode and start the test. If you see an error at the end of that test, copy it here. Make a backup of your computer and take the MacBook Pro to an Apple Store or reseller to get it replaced or repaired

No keys work?

so this has happened before, but it was only my spacebar
last night my O key stoped working, and it was the last key i needed to unlock my phone
this morning, EVERYTHING has stopped workng, all my keys except my K (which is one of the few letters for my password), my track pad (which has stopped working in the past to the point where i had to get a new one), and my bb sign, and the pick/hang up buttons
ive already tried taking the battery out n blowing on it.
my mom is advising me to take out the battery for an hour n put it back in, but i dont have much hope for that working.
ive had this curve for about 6 months, my previous curve i had for 7 months, because the trackpad COMPLETELY stopped working.
no water damage i would know of, but i do drop it every now n then.
THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP IT IS MUCH NEEDED

rbidulks wrote:
no water damage i would know of, but i do drop it every now n then.
It sounds like what I have seen multiple times on a device with moisture damage.
Even sitting on a bathroom counter during a hot steamy shower or bath can cause keyboard and trackball problems UNTIL properly dried out. It really is more common than you think.
1. Remove the battery immediately!! Do not attempt to turn on your BlackBerry.
2. Let the device dry in a warm, dry place for 3 to 5 days* (see below)
3. DO NOT "check it each day" by placing the battery in. Leave it be to dry completely. This takes time. Replacing the battery to check it can only damage it more (moisture + electrical current = disaster).
4. If the device is warm after the drying period, allow it to cool to room temperature before placing the battery back in.
Suggestions on drying your BlackBerry in a warm place (open, with the battery out):
*Place the BB in a container of dry UNcooked rice, and then you might also place it in any of the locations mentioned below.
*On top of any dry heat emitting electronic component: TV cabinet or CRT, LCD, cable TV/Satellite converter box or plasma monitor
*On the dashboard of your car on a sunny day
1. If any post helps you please click the below the post(s) that helped you.
2. Please resolve your thread by marking the post "Solution?" which solved it for you!
3. Install free BlackBerry Protect today for backups of contacts and data.
4. Guide to Unlocking your BlackBerry & Unlock Codes
Join our BBM Channels (Beta)
BlackBerry Support Forums Channel
PIN: C0001B7B4 Display/Scan Bar Code
Knowledge Base Updates
PIN: C0005A9AA Display/Scan Bar Code

Faulty Temperature Sensor?

Recently, I was given an old Mac g4 15" Powerbook that the owner no longer wanted. This is the first Mac I have owned as well as the first laptop. It worked fine for me for several weeks, and I got a new battery and upgraded the RAM. Then it started putting itself to sleep seemingly randomly, while I was in the middle of using it. It's fine for a little while upon turning on, and then may start to do this every minute. I changed the battery and memory back to the original pieces, the problem persists. The last time, it would not wake up at all. I finally took out the battery and power cord and held down the power button and restarted it.
Looking around online, I have found other people experienced this 'narcoleptic computer' issue with g4s, but no clear solution. The consensus seems to be a faulty trackpad temperature sensor sends the computer into sleep. I checked my system.log and found emergency overtemp warnings at the times it was sent to sleep. I downloaded Temperature Monitor and found that the trackpad temp would spike way up and down while the other temperatures remained consistent. Sometimes there is no temperature reported for the trackpad at all, at times it behaves normally until the computer is jostled, leading me to believe it might be an issue with something come loose.
Is this something that has been resolved? I saw a couple suggestions to open it up an remove the trackpad temperature sensor entirely, does anyone know if that fixes the problem in the long term? I have also tried resetting the pram and the pmu, setting the power saver preferences to never put it to sleep, trashing my power saver preference files, disabling bluetooth, and running the computer off the power cord only with no battery. Next I will try opening the whole thing up and tightening everything I can see to tighten.
I know it's getting up there in years, but the computer worked fine for what I wanted until this started. I would be very grateful for any advice on how to deal with this issue.

Hello Kate,
The track-pad heat sensor is +*one of the causes*+ of narcoleptic powerbooks, but from my experience it is more usually related to a faulty keyboard. Sticky or bent keys, dirt, soda, faulty light sensor are more likely the cause. It is highly unlikely anything has become lose inside the machine as all factory fitted screws are sealed with a lock-tight adhesive or equivalent. Try turning off the illuminated keyboard (F8) and see if it persists. Opening the machine is not a bad idea although, you will find very little in the way of visual determiners. Open it up and give it a good clean out. A small soft paint brush and a can of compressed air will do the job. Just be careful to blow the garbage out and not deeper into the machine.
A suggestion to pin-pointing the problem: Can you hook it up to an external display, keyboard and mouse? If so, start the computer, close the lid and wake it with the external mouse. See if the problem persists. If it does, at least you know the track pad sensor is fine and it must be related to the keyboard or a general overheating issue, which may be something as simple as a faulty stick of RAM.

MacBook pro 1.86GHz Temperature Reading

I'm just curious on what you all think because to be honest after reading all the stories about temperature of the MacBook Pro I decided to get the kernel hack for reading the temperature sensor.
With the MagSafe plugged in, brightness turned to full and the Better Performance mode selected I used it for some general web browsing and Instant Messaging. Also did some basic video editing with video recorded on the iSight. Left all this running for about 10 minutes and took a temperature reading.
The reading came out as shown here:
60 Celsius or 140 Fahrenheit.
After leaving on same settings but idle and not doing anything I took another temperature read out and discovered it only dropped to 59 Celsius.
Are those temperatures within reason?
The area above the F keys are hot to touch and bordering on untoucheable. Likewise for the area on the underneat of the laptop.
Everywhere else on the chassis seems to be moderately warm.
What are all your thoughts on the above temperature read outs?

The heaviest load would have been video editing. Under such a load 60 C is reasonable. The subjective temperatures you felt on the metal strip behind the function keys and on the case bottom are typical.
59 C after an period of inactivity following video editing is a bit high but doesn't necessarily indicate a problem. But if you start with the computer at ambient room temperature, do nothing or only very light work and the CPU stabilizes at 59 C that's somewhat high unless your ambient temperature is rather high. Sleep your computer for a time until it cools down, then resume it and monitor the CPU temps while at idle or low load for a good while.
I use an aluminum tilt stand when my MBP is on my desk, or will be in my lap for an extended period of use.
Plugged in, my light-duty (writing and Web surfing) temperatures typically range from the mid 40s to low 50s C. My keyboard and trackpad are not warm and the left palm rest area is at or about body temperature. So the computer remains comfortable to use. The CPU temperatures for comparable activity drop by several degrees. When I'm doing web surfing I'm usually selecting material for download, which results in more activity than just web surfing alone.
Even when I'm doing heavier duty work that frequently pegs the CPUs my computer remains comfortable to use. So I don't have a heat problem.

Apple Notebooks: Operating Temperature

I see Apple has updated article# 30612 (Apple Notebooks: Operating Temperature) to include the MacBook Pro. The most interesting part of the document is the first paragraph:
"The bottom surface and some areas between the keyboard and LCD hinge of your Apple notebook computer can become hot after extended periods of use. This is normal operating behavior. With processor and bus speeds in portable computers often matching, if not exceeding, those of desktop systems, increased operating temperatures in portable computing products are common throughout the industry."
So it seems Apple is knowledging that this extreme heat is normal above the F keys and on the bottom surface (mainly at the back).
MacBook Pro 2.16GHz/2GB RAM/100GB 7200rpm hard drive Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Hi Brad,
"extreme heat"
All of the Apple computers are like this. Same with all laptops that I have ever seen. The back of the computer near the hinge is where the fan is, so there should be some heat coming of there. I am glad some heat comes out of the keyboard (barely); its better then the logic board.
Jon
Quick question; where did you see extreme heat?
Mac Mini 1.42Ghz, iPod (All), Airport (Graphite & Express), G4 1.33Ghz iBook, G4 iMac 1Ghz, G3 500Mhz, iBook iMac 233Mhz, eMate, Power Mac 5400 LC, PowerBook 540c, Macintosh 128K, Apple //e, Apple //, and some more... Mac OS X (10.4.5) Moto Razr, iLife '06, SmartDisk 160Gb, Apple BT Mouse, Sight..

2911 operating temperature

Hello I have to put a router at a tower site that only has a metal box on the side of it. With the fans the temp stays around 90. On the really hot days I have seen it get up to 105. The operating temperature of a 2911 is 32-104F. So my question is, is it safe to run it in this environment? And is the 32-104F ambient temperature or board temperature?

I don't know the exact temperature specifics only Creative have the "undocumented specs". But I can tell you that the internal Lithium battery would not be a problem but the LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) screen might pose a problem at very low temperatures 32 F/ 0 C (and below) because the liquid in the display could freeze/dis-color/turn dark as with any other LCD. The key is to keep the MP3 close to your body so 98.6 F. will keep the display warm and not freeze. Just put it in your shirt pocket and do not expose it to the elements!

Operating temperature of Z

Anyone knows the operating temperature of ZEN 2/4/8/6/32 gb? Cos I'm going to a cold country soon and was thinking of bringing my ZEN along.

I don't know the exact temperature specifics only Creative have the "undocumented specs". But I can tell you that the internal Lithium battery would not be a problem but the LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) screen might pose a problem at very low temperatures 32 F/ 0 C (and below) because the liquid in the display could freeze/dis-color/turn dark as with any other LCD. The key is to keep the MP3 close to your body so 98.6 F. will keep the display warm and not freeze. Just put it in your shirt pocket and do not expose it to the elements!

Lighting temperature considerations for print evaluation?

I am setting up a color management workflow for fine art photos that includes monitor and printer/paper calibration, ambient light control and a print viewing area.
I'm having trouble deciding which temperature lighting to use in a print viewing area for evaluating the color of final prints. Some experts say 5000K (kelvin) lighting is ideal, others tout 4700K (D50) as ideal, while others like John Paul Caponigro say prints are best evaluated at the temperature lighting they are to be displayed at -- like 3500K.
That makes sense to me, but how do you get photos to print exactly how they appear on the monitor when the monitor is calibrated at the recommended 6500K, and the prints are evaluated under 3500K lighting? Or am I comparing apples & oranges here? Could anyone help clarify this for me? Thanks.

RichPate wrote:
Thanks Larry. Very interesting article. Andrew Rodney and others over at the Photo.net Digital Darkroom Forum have weighed in on the article and my original question.
Its all quite simple really, and the long posts over on PhotoNet seem to be making this all far more complex than it needs to be.
5000K (or for that matter any value provided in Kelvin) is a range of colors. This is why its useful when expressing a kelvin value to use Correlated Color Temperature (CCT) prior to any value. Many different colors correlate to the same numeric value. One light source that is said to be 5000K could produce a different color than another light source said to be 5000K. A Standard Illuminant, like D50 is at least a definition of a fixed, single color based on its Spectral Power Distribution(SPD). That doesn’t mean that someone specifying a light source or calibrating a display to D50 results in the product producing D50. In a prefect world this should be the case. Another issue is one can take the same instrument and two different calibration products and ask for D50 or worse (because its somewhat ambiguous, 5000K), calibrate the display and get differing results.
Figure out what light source you will use to view the prints next to the display. Many are recommending CCT 3500K Solux bulbs. This can be used to view prints away from the display environment but that isn’t a rigid requirement. Your eyes will adapt to the conditions under which you view your prints either next to the display or 10 miles away. The goal is WYSIWYG in terms of the print and the display. That means you have to have this display in the environment where you view the prints. It means you have to calibrate the display and control the viewing environment of the print next to the display. If you select CCT 3500K Solux (or a Fluorescent GTI booth etc), you now need to set the calibration target values of your software for a display calibration and the resulting display profile. What are the right settings? One would assume that you would ask for a CCT 3500K white point in the software. That’s not likely going to work, again due to the CCT values here, the differences between the Fluorescent light (or maybe LED) display backlight and so forth. The right values are those that produce a visual match, period!
The value may be D50 on an NEC SpectraView using their software. It might be CCT 6000K using EyeOne Match. It might be D55 using another type of display. Your Mileage May Vary. You have to enter various values until you result in a visual match. This is a reason why the better calibration products for displays allow one to insert an X/Y chromaticity value instead of relying just on a CCT or standard illuminant value.
To the same degree, the backlight intensity, specified in cd/m2 needs to be adjusted to taste. Again, YMMV. How bright is the light illuminating the print? Can you control this either using a dimmer (not useful for Solux, it alters its color) or by moving the light closer or farther from the print. The dreaded “my prints are too dark” issue is 98 out of 100 times, a severe disconnect between the intensity of the viewing booth and the target calibration of the display backlight. These people generally need to dial down the display luminance and/or raise the viewing booth intensity to result in a visual match.
Getting a CCT 3400K Solux and a decent display, driven with decent software to produce a match is totally possible and many people do this all the time. The same could be said of a good GTI or Just Normlitch (or similar) Fluorescent booth (although there are issues with Fluorescent lighting and interaction with OBAs in some papers).
Why CCT 34000K Solux? Simple, they look better. While a CCT 4700K bulb (and its new cousin the 5000K bulb) in theory should be a “better match” because they are numerically closer to the so called 5000K standard (its really D50), due to these values being not very reliable descriptors of the color, the cooler bulbs don’t produce as pleasing effect. If you go into galleries with Solux bulbs, especially those who have tested several different flavors of CCT values, almost all select the 3500K Solux. No reason not to use that for your custom made viewing booth. And as I said, if you then get your visual match between booth and display, take the print into the kitchen, outside, to another gallery etc, your eyes will adapt to the new white point, assuming its not some weird-*** illuminant (metal halide mixed with daylight etc). You will like the appearance of the prints when you move them away from this display to viewing booth environment.
Of course, all this begs for good displays, using good instrumenting and software. You may wish to produce multiple calibration targets and resulting profiles for differing papers (contrast ratio settings). Or you may be working with Solux and Fluorescent booths because customers are using the later and you need to collaborate with them. Mucking around with the display OSD’s to produce the ideal cd/m2 and white point is not the best approach, better are “smart monitors” that do all this internally in high bit (the NEC SpectraView II line comes to mind). Effective soft proofing is only as strong as the weakest link in the chain. But it is possible and achieved every day by many.
Could you please explain "lux" to me and the 250 lux figure you came up with? Is this something I can use the spot meter on my DSLR to measure? Is it similar to cd/m2? I'm an artist/photographer who is rather challenged at the technical aspects of color management.
Lux like cd/m2 is just a unit of measurement of light intensity. Lower for the ambient conditions is always better. It can’t be too low (it can be too high). Any ambient light in the environment will have an effect on the blackest black the display can produce so again, lower is better. You want the brightest and darkest object you view to be the display. When you are editing, the viewing booth can be off but at some point, you’ll want to view print and display. Here you need to correctly setup the soft proof (unfortunately that today means Photoshop) with the simulate check boxes on, with the image in full screen mode. No palettes, no UI elements which can’t undergo the white simulation. Black bkgnd for the image (hit tab key, F key until all you see is the image on screen, filling the screen or as close to the size of the print as possible).

Temperature is key

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