Tom's Hardware NF2 Roundup.

Tom's Hardware just did a Roundup of nForce2 Motherboards. How does MSI come out? You will have to read to see:
More nForce2: New Boards from Abit, Biostar and MSI
Take Care,
Richard

May lead the field at 166...but as far as being a good overclaocker. That I have not seen yet, but waiting!!!!!!

Similar Messages

Article on Open GL and Open CL on Tom's Hardware

An interesting article went up on Tom's Hardware a couple of days ago:
Can OpenGL And OpenCL Overhaul Your Photo Editing Experience?

Finally managed to read it, but for someone who takes a Black Box approach to software, it was heavy going. It does make you treat the Photoshop team with a whole new level of respect though, and you can certainly see why video drivers are a) so important, and b) so often not quite right. The most surprising thing for me was that the Photoshop team numbers only 60 people out of however many thousands of employees Adobe has. I wonder what percentage of Adobe's income comes from Photoshop?

MSI GX60 Review - Tom's Hardware

I'm an avid reader of Tom's Hardware for my daily tech news and reviews. They happen to review one of MSI's gaming laptops, the GX60. Here's an excerpt of the review:
Review Excerpt:
MSI's GX60-series notebook is in our lab today. Armed with Radeon HD 7970M graphics, a 15.6" display, and triple-screen output, this is truly a desktop replacement. But can its AMD A10-4600M APU keep pace with gaming platforms armed with Intel CPUs?
MSI's goal in designing and building the GX60 was very straightforward: deliver the highest-end gaming performance for the least amount of money. Obviously, the challenge there is that high-end systems are made with high-end parts, and therefore come with high-end price tags. By swapping out an Intel processor and Nvidia GPU for less expensive parts from AMD, MSI was able to create a more affordable mobile platform. Read more from source

Thanks najiro for sharing~ it is a complete review.
yeah, looks very nice. especially AMD is working together with several big game titles this year.
Quote from the review:
•“This thing boots and loads games incredibly fast”
•“The palm rest stays cool when gaming”
•“The sound quality is amazing; the speakers sound like wearing headphones”
•“This machine is so responsive, tabbing in and out of games is almost instantaneous”
•“The webcam is really good”
•“Man, this thing is quiet”
•“Wow, plays everything with graphics up all the way”.

Tom's Hardware released USB 3.1 testing results on MSI X99A GAMING 9 ACK

Tom’s Hardware released a test result of MSI motherboard and USB 3.1 device. It mentioned that there is an ASMedia ASM1352R controller on X99A GAMING 9 ACK to support two USB 3.1 ports on I/O interface.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/usb-3.1-performance-benchmark,4037.html
X99A GAMING 9 ACK, expected to launch in Q1 2015.
USB ports on MSI X99A GAMING 9 ACK
Testing Platform
Results: USB 3.1 VS. USB 3.0
ASMedia is the only company ready with USB 3.1 and Intel isn’t planning to build the technology into its chipsets any time soon. Neither Broadwell’s nor Skylake platform supports native USB 3.1. Moreover, MSI is the first company to announce its motherboard with USB 3.1 feature. MSI X99A GAMING 9 ACK will undoubtedly be a $400+ motherboard like X99S GAMING 9 ACK before it. Any users who want to enjoy the newest technology can choose MSI X99A motherboard to have the best using experience.

I dont think the usb 3.1 drives ready now, but it's nice to see msi moterboard get this new feature.
I think the type-c usb 3.1 will be use on the mobile device for sure!

IXsystems FreeNAS Mini NAS Review - Tom's Hardware

Running Spiceworks on a workstation on a LAN. Have not changed the default scan schedule. Gigabit NIC. 5 servers and about 20 workstations on the LAN. Two Procurve Switches bound together. Workstations plug into the Ethernet port on the phones which go to the switches (Phone system is Mitel 5000)No super intensive data transfers going on beyond a typical office environment.I'm the Sys Admin and the Network Engineer we contracted with made some changes and then we started seeing some network slowdowns from time to time so we are now trying to troubleshoot causes of the network bogging down.We ended up unplugging the workstation running Spiceworks and walaa issue goes away. This is my first use of Spiceworks so naturally I'm wondering if it could be a major contributor (or root cause) to the network bogging down. Like I said, using the...

Integrate your on-premises infrastructure with AzureIf you’ve experimented with Microsoft Azure, or are already using it for some of your IT functionality, you may be ready to take that next step and integrate your infrastructure with Azure so you can use it as an extension to your on-premises infrastructure. Finding all the information that helps you do this can be very time consuming. To help decrease the amount of time required to extend your datacenter to Azure, we’ve released the Datacenter extension reference architecture diagram, a static version is shown above.The diagram shows what a datacenter extension might look like, but it probably also leaves you wondering what everything in it is exactly, and why it’s in the diagram.What’s great about the diagram is that it’s interactive. You can click on every object in the diagram to...

Enable Hardware Virtualization On Mac Pro 8 Core (Early 2008)

Hi,
Has anyone has any success enabling the Intel VT-X feature on the Xeons on the Mac Pro (Early 2008, 8 core Xeon)? The VMWare ISO indicates that its turned off on all cores, and NOT locked. VMWare confirms that its not enabled, by not allowing me to boot a 64bit guest OS.
Has anyone had any success? ive got the latest EFI BIOS, hoping that it would fix it (like a BIOS upgrade did aparently for the Mac Mini).
As the feature bit is not locked, maybe there is a way of doing it in software (normally the BIOS turns the feature on or off, then locks it, the lock holding until the next cold boot). We would need ring0 access to the processor.
Alternatively, there is a EFI exe floating around that aparently enabled it for the Mac Mini (on old firmware with the bug).
Whats the best way to report this to Apple? do they have a history of fixing user-reported issues?
Thanks
George

Interestng about firmware. Sounds odd to have cpu from different batches.
link to the thread w/o the session ID.
http://communities.vmware.com/thread/221087
One security expert uses a Mac Pro and runs multiple VMs was interviewed and up on Tom's Hardware - there have been changes since 2006 (1st gen Mac Pro) compared to even 2008. Probably nothing to help but VT -d and other stuff was news to me.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/joanna-rutkowska-rootkit,2356-4.html

Important hardware items for new pc

I want to buy a new PC.
Which PC components are especially important for a fast PC. I use PS CS6 + ACR 7 * for photo editing.
It is about an affordable PC (about € 800, -) .... not an expensive SUPER-HIGH-END
I think of eg:
Intel i5 or i7 .... what type
What video card? ....
Which memory + how many 8 ... 12 MB
Other important things ......
windows 7 of 8

Balance is important if you want to make the most of your $800. Perhaps the Tom's Hardware builds would be a good place to start.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/build-your-own-gaming-pc-core-i5,3708.html
Except I just looked at the specs and was not altogether convinced, but they did qualify the build as being for Gaming.     Although I actually like 'gaming' focused systems for Photoshop type usage, so long as they use a single GPU. Something to do with economy of scale, I suspect, but they seem to offer a lot of bang for your buck.
The $800 system in this list looks a lot better to me
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/build-your-own-pc-overclocking-hardware,3713.html
Don't worry too much about the thought of over clocking. So long as your temperatures are kept under control, a sensibly pushed CPU is not going to lose significant lifespan. And a lot of boards come with software that automatically ups clock speed only when needed.   There are free apps like Speccy that keep an eye on things for you, and MSI Afterburner that will keep the GPU fan ticking over until it is needed. That last one is a biggy - my computer goes from a bearable hum, to "is there a hovercraft landing outside?" when GPU intensive tasks are performed.
The great thing about computers is that, being modular, they are so easy to upgrade as and when you can afford it. So try not to fill all your RAM slots. 8Gb should be considered a minimum, and 12 or 16Gb would be better. I used to be unconvinced by the need for so much RAM, but having to use my laptop for the last couple of weeks, demonstrated that 16Gb was most definitely OTT.
Think about adding a spare drive just for Photoshop Scratch, down the road. Heck I'd give you one of you were local to me.
Windows 7 or 8???? Hmmmm....    Call me shallow, but I did quite like using Windows 8 on the laptop. although the upgrade to 8.1 caused me some hassle. Then again, I think I am happier being back on my main system with Windows 7. It feels cleaner and I don't have to keep flicking between the desktop and Start screens.
Perhaps the laspt word could be for you to run your short list by us before committing. I found our NZ equivalent of eBay useful when researching my laptop as you can filter by spec, and shortlist by adding to your Watch list. Whatever you get, you are going t love it with knobs on. It's going to feel fresh, snappy, and a pleasure to use.

Overclocking Guide

Overclocking Guide
Disclaimer: Overclock at your own risk!
Data and information provided in this guide are for informational and educational purposes only, and are not intended for trading purposes. Neither MSI nor any of this thread’s authors shall be liable for any errors or delays in the content or be held responsible for any damage caused by modifying or overclocking your computer. Manufacturers may or may not honor the warranty on any overclocked or modified computer components. Perform any modifications to your systems at your own risk.
Why Overclock?
Today, overclocking is not any secret. It has become more popular and almost become an addiction to some people. The definition of Overclocking is simple: it means operating an Integrated Circuit beyond its specified clock speed.
But why overclock? Some people say to get more out for the same money. “It’s there; why not get more out of it?” However, the best business reason for overclocking is that it can make “out of date” equipments useful again. If the equipment is already out of warranty, the risk is very limited. (I personally suggest any beginners to overclock any out of date PC first just to have some first time experience.)
Know more about the Central Processing Unit (CPU)
Processor speed is based on two factors. The first is the interface between the motherboard and the front side bus (FSB). From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page (Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia), FSB is the speed at which the CPU communicates with RAM (memory). Many system components - including the PCI and AGP buses usually run at speeds derived from the frontside bus' speed. In general, a faster frontside bus means higher processing speeds and a faster computer. The other factor controlling a CPU's speed is the clock multiplier. It defines the ratio of processor speed to the FSB.
The FSB on new processors ranges from 400 MHz to 800 MHz. These are not straight clock speeds but instead they are quad-clocked speeds. These processors actually transmit data four times per clock cycle, for example, 800 MHz FSB is actually four times the 200MHz clock (200 MHz x 4 = 800 MHz).
The core speed of the CPU is the product of the front side bus clock and the multiplier. A processor running at 3600MHz (i.e. 3.6 GHz) might be having 800 MHz FSB, this means there is a clock multiplier setting of 4, and thus the CPU is set to run at 4 times the MHz speed of the front side bus.
But we said earlier that they are quad-clocked speeds, so 3600 MHz actually came from 18 times 200 MHz (200 MHz x 18 = 3600 MHz).
Please note that not all processors have quad-clocked speed FSB. For example, the Intel Pentium 4 (Northwood core) has quad-clocked speed FSB. But for example, the Intel Pentium III, AMD Athlon XP and AMD Duron have dual-clocked speed FSB only.
To know more, please read:
http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets/showdoc.aspx?i=2178
Let’s lock the clock multiplier
Few years ago, you could overclock processors by choosing a higher multiplier. This option was eliminated in order to fight CPU remarking. Counterfeit processors have regularly appeared in the market, as the CPU speed was only defined by your setting. Nowadays, the restriction to only one multiplier is both of overclocking and counterfeit prevention.
As you can see, the only way of overclocking today is choosing a higher front side bus clock and the offer of small increments e.g. 1MHz in today's motherboards give us a great advantage in overclocking.
However, some CPUs nowadays are still unlocked, for example, the AMD Athlon MP and AMD Athlon64 families. And some motherboard companies offer the chance to unlock the Pentium 4 (Socket 775 CPUs only) overclocking potential by using special bios, for more please read:
http://www20.tomshardware.com/motherboard/20040916/index.html
Look at your motherboard
Before you overclock anything, have a look if your motherboard can overclock CPU. Look at the CPU installation section in the motherboard manual. Normally you will find either BIOS setup options or jumpers on the motherboard that allow you to adjust the FSB, CPU voltage, PCI/AGP ratio etc.
If you have a computer that came from a major manufacturer like HP, it is likely that your motherboard does not provide any overclocking function although it is very rare nowadays.
You need more Power!
This is also the time to check the power supply in your computer. Like a car, speed requires power, and unstable power inevitably leads to unstable processors, so I would recommend the power supply has to be at least 350 Watts. You can find six power supply guides in this forum below:
A Power Supply Guide
AND
Powersupplies(Written by Bas)
AND
Choosing The Right Power Supply
AND
Powersupply calculation....
AND
http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/articles/guides/Power_Supply_Guide_1.html
Both Intel and AMD processors are power hungry, consuming 40 to 100 watts (e.g. the new Prescott) of power. Also, your graphics card may take another 55 watts of power. Now you are consuming more than 100 watts of power for merely two components in your system.
You can also voltmod your Power Supply Unit, for more please read:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/other/display/psu-voltmodding.html
Using higher voltages
Today, almost each processor can be run faster than the speed it was labeled for. This applies even more if you raise the core voltage a little bit. This is just like a car running at higher speed requires more power. But this is one of the “riskiest” aspects of overclocking - by using too much power you could burn your CPU. You should always raise the voltage step by step and never go higher than 15% beyond the specification. This way it is quite easy to get a faster system without risking the processor. Apart from raising the voltage of the CPU, similarly you can raise the voltage of memory as well. One problem is of course the increasing chip temperature, so cooling is very important. We will cover that later.
Memory Speed
Memory speed is often tied to the FSB. For example, a Double Data Rate (DDR) 400 memory has frequency 200MHz and the module rating is PC3200. Half the performance increase you may see from overclocking a CPU comes from increasing the speed at which the processor can talk to the memory.
When you buy memory, you may see it has label 2-3-3-7-1T. And you may also hear people saying my memory is a 2-3-3-7 one. But what does it mean? The answer is:
CAS Latency = 2 clock cycles
tRCD = RAS to CAS delay = 3 clock cycles
tRP = RAS Precharge = 3 clock cycles
tRAS = Active to Precharge = 7 clock cycles
Command Rate = 1 clock cycle
Different motherboards may call the above differently and not all of them will appear in the BIOS. You may need to check with your motherboard’s support team and the motherboard manual. If you have any option above in your BIOS, you can also start to adjust them. Obviously, the smaller the number the faster the memory will be.
To know more about memory please read:
http://www.corsairmicro.com/corsair/products/tech/memory_basics/153707/index.html
AND
Memory Roundup
AND
http://www.anandtech.com/memory/showdoc.aspx?i=2223
Video Card
To overclock video card, we need a third party utility to overclock the card. Although increasing numbers of manufacturers include utilities to allow customers to overclock their cards in their drivers or through an extra application, most of them do not provide this facility. Simply because overclocking stresses the system and voids manufacturer warranties. Third party utilities tend to be universal that they work on different cards irrespective of manufacturers.
Some utilities and the places to download included:
1. OMEGA Drivers
http://www.omegacorner.com/
2. StarStorm Drivers (Nvidia cards only)
http://downloads.guru3d.com/download.php?id=10
3. RivaTuner
http://www.guru3d.com/
4. PowerStrip
http://www.entechtaiwan.com/
5. Rage3D Tweak (ATI cards only)
http://www.rage3d.com/index.php?node=r3dtweak
6. RadLinker (ATI cards only)
http://www28.brinkster.com/chrisww1942/
7. ATITool (ATI cards only)
http://atitool.ocfaq.com/
Please read their own manuals in their corresponding web pages. Also, if you want to be able to have the hidden functions in Nvidia card, create a file with notepad and put this in it (thanks for Deathstalker to provide this source):
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\NVIDIA Corporation\Global\NVTweak]
"Coolbits"=dword:ffffffff
"NvCplEnableHardwarePage"=dword:00000001
"NvCplEnableAGPSettingsPage"=dword:00000001
Save it as agpsetting.reg to your desktop or anywhere you like. Then run it and it will give you all the hidden options from Nvidia which include extra resolution settings for your desktop and overclocking for both the memory and core.
For ATI Radeon X800 Pro softmod, please read (link provided by mopey):
http://www.ocforums.com/showindex.php?t=312063
For ATI Radeon X800 Pro voltage mod, please read (link provided by NovJoe):
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/?i=817&s=1
For ATI Radeon 9800 XT voltage mod, please read (link provided by NovJoe):
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/?i=760&s=1
To can change your Radeon 9800 Pro 256MB graphic card to Radeon 9800XT card, please read (in English):
http://www.rojakpot.com/(jiljtv55hwgq5uabzft0f5re)/default.aspx?location=3&var1=92&var2=0
To change your GeForceFX 5900 graphic card to GeForceFX 5900 Ultra, please read (in Traditional Chinese):
http://www.oc.com.tw/article/0403/readocarticle.asp?id=2410
To change your GeForceFX 5700 Ultra graphic card to QuadroFX 1100, please read (in Traditional Chinese):
http://www.oc.com.tw/article/0403/readiyarticle.asp?id=2387
Get the temperature down
Cooling is probably the most important aspect of overclocking. Overclocking causes circuits to cycle faster, generating more heat. If the CPU is not cooled properly, your CPU will not run reliably and there is a very good chance that you will permanently damage your CPU.
The heat sink and fan unit that Intel and AMD ship with its CPU are fairy good. However, for maximum stability, we need to get something better than that. For example, for CPU fans, we have Vantec Tornado, Thermaltake volcano 7+, CoolerMaster Aero 4 and Zalman CNPS7000A-AlCu etc.
Be sure that the cooling solution you choose is specifically designed for your processor. Improperly mounting a heat sink, using the wrong model can damage your processor.
Also, the airflow in the case is very important. If heat cannot escape the case, the CPU is still at risk. Thus, more case fans are needed apart from the power supply's exhaust fan. Tidying up the cables inside the case can help too. In addition, clearing the dust in the case by using canned compressed air can enhance the airflow but never use vacuum cleaner as it may generate electrostatic and harm the IC components.
For more about cooling, you can also read these:
http://www.antec-inc.com/pdf/article/info_DIYArticle3.html
AND
http://www.antec-inc.com/pdf/article/info_DIYArticle2.html
AND
Cooling guide(Written by J*A*G)
AND
http://www.community.tomshardware.com/forum/postlist.m?Cat=&Board=over_cooling
For more about CPU fan, please read:
BEST Overclockers CPU cooler????
For more about Water Cooling, please read:
Water cooling...
Keep the Noise Down
Unless your computer is cooled by a water cooling system, it will be pretty noisy. To keep the noise down, please read this:
http://www.antec-inc.com/pdf/article/info_DIYArticle_quiet_computing.html
Overclocking Process
Essentially, overclocking processors consists of increasing the FSB in the BIOS, booting the computer, and then testing for stability. You repeat the process until you identify the maximum stable speed.
In case your board offer 1 MHz-increments (which most of your boards do), you have the chance to find out the maximum clock speed by slowly closing in on the final limit MHz for MHz. Of course this cannot be done in an hour, but you will have to spend one or two days just playing with different clock speed settings. In the end you should have your CPU running at the highest possible core speed. The Most important thing to remember is that you must go Slowly!
Also, you can overclock the processor by using software although it may not be as effective as overclocking using the motherboard BIOS. Such software includes:
1. ClockGen
http://www.cpuid.com/
2. CPUFSB
http://mitglied.lycos.de/podien/
3. 8rdavcore
http://www.hasw.net/8rdavcore/
Here is a thread that talks about overclocking an Intel Pentium 4 2.4cGHz to 3.0GHz using Intel 865PE chipsets. (You may treat it as an example of overclocking.):
Best 865PE Overclock for 2.4C to 3.0+
Changing the FSB is a relatively simple matter of entering the computer's BIOS setup screen, switching from automatic to manual configuration and selecting the FSB speed you want. Here are some utilities that you can check your computer’s setting, especially CPU speed:
1. CPU-Z
http://www.cpuid.com
2. WCPUID (Linux supported)
http://www.h-oda.com
3. AIDA32
http://www.aida32.hu/aida32.php
http://aumha.org/freeware.htm
4. PC Wizard
http://www.cpuid.com/
5. EVEREST
http://www.lavalys.com/
6. Motherboard Monitor
http://mbm.livewiredev.com/
7. HWiNFO and HWiNFO32
http://www.hwinfo.com/
8. SpeedFan
http://www.almico.com/
http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
9. Motherboard Monitor
http://mbm.livewiredev.com/
http://mbm.livewiredev.com/download.html
10. Intel Processor Frequency ID Utility (Intel CPU only)
http://support.intel.com/support/processors/tools/frequencyid/
11. AMD CPU Information Display Utility (AMD CPU only)
http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/TechnicalResources/0,,30_182_871,00.html
For more, you can go to the following to have a browse:
http://www.3degs.net/
Bear in mind that if the processor is capable of a 20-percent or more speed increase say, it is unlikely that your video card or memory can have the same amount of increase. And the one thing that you must remember to do if you overclock the FSB is to Set (i.e. Lock) your AGP/PCI Buses, to as close to their Default Frequencies as Possible (to PCI bus at 33 MHz and the AGP port at 66 MHz for example), or you will most definitely experience problems across the whole board e.g. your graphics card, onboard sound and IDE channels may start giving you data and other errors.
Test for Stability and Benchmarking
The purpose of testing is to apply a heavy workload to every aspect of your system to ensure that there are no hidden problems and stability issue. You can do testing by using special testing suites, software and games. The aim of benchmarking is to measure the performance of your system. In overclocking, benchmarking can tell you how far the system’s performance has increased when you adjust certain settings.
For a test suite, you may try Winbench, which you can download from:
http://www.etestinglabs.com/benchmarks/winbench/winbench.asp
Special software for testing and benchmarking included:
1. CPU Burn (Linux supported)
http://users.bigpond.net.au/cpuburn/
2. PCMark 04
http://www.futuremark.com/
3. Aquamark 3
http://www.aquamark3.com/
4. SiSoftware Sandra Standard 2004
http://www.sisoftware.net/
5. Prime95 (Linux supported)
http://www.mersenne.org/
(For more about Prime95, please read: how to use prime 95 properly)
6. Memtest86 (Linux supported)
http://www.memtest86.com/
7. Memtest86+ (Linux supported)
http://www.memtest.org/
8. Super PI (Linux supported)
http://pw1.netcom.com/~hjsmith/Pi/Super_Pi.html (Windows version)
http://ftp://pi.super-computing.org/Linux/super_pi.tar.gz (Linux version)
9. ScienceMark
http://www.sciencemark.org/
10. SETI @home (Linux supported)
http://setiathome.ssl.berkeley.edu/
For testing video card, you can run Games like Quake 3 and Unreal Tournament demo mode and left running in loops. You should be able to run a game in a loop for at least two hours after a reboot without a problem. Also, you can use 3DMark05 from FUTUREMARK (download from http://www.futuremark.com/).
1. Unreal Tournament (Linux supported)
http://www.unrealtournament.com/
2. Wolfenstein: Enemy Territory (Linux supported)
http://games.activision.com/games/wolfenstein/
3. Quake (Linux supported)
http://www.idsoftware.com/games/quake/
4. Call Of Duty
http://www.callofduty.com/index.asp
5. X2 - The Thread
http://www.egosoft.com/
6. Colin McRae Rally 4
http://www.codemasters.co.uk/colinmcraerally04/uk/colinmcraerally04.php
7. Nascar Thunder 2004
http://www.easports.com/games/thunder2004/home.jsp
8. Halo
http://www.microsoft.com/games/halo/
9. Farcry
http://www.farcry.ubi.com/
10. Half-Life
http://games.sierra.com/games/half-life/
11. Doom 3 (Linux supported)
http://www.doom3.com/
Tips: The benchmark can be performed by using “demo1” which ships with Doom 3. Open the console (Windows: Ctrl+Alt+~; Linux: ~) and type “timedemo demo1”.
12. Battlefield Vietnam
http://www.eagames.com/official/battlefield/vietnam/us/home.jsp
13. Serious Sam
http://www.serioussam.com/
14. Tomb Raider: The Angel of Darkness
http://www.tombraider.com/
15. Halo
http://www.bungie.net/
16. Tom Clancy's Splinter Cell
http://www.splintercell.com/
Conclusion
I suggest you to read this guide one more time before you overclock to make sure that you have not missed anything. Wish you have a good overclocking experience, have fun! Here is also another guide to make your have a Happier and Healthier System:
http://www.antec-inc.com/pdf/article/info_DIYArticle4.html
The following teaches you how to change an AMD Athlon XP 1700+ to an Athlon MP 1700+ (in Traditional Chinese):
http://www.oc.com.tw/article/0304/readocarticle.asp?id=1390
Also, for a Step By Step Overclocking Guide and other overclocking guides, you can go to:
1. General overclocking tips
2. more overclocking help
3. Hardware & Overclocking FAQ in bit-tech
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showindex.php?t=51323
4. Overclocking Guide in OC Forums
http://www.ocforums.com/showindex.php?t=263753
5. Link Guide for anyone new to Overclocking in PC Perspective
http://forums.pcper.com/showindex.php?t=173635
6. Overclocking Guide in Help Overclocking
http://www.helpoverclocking.com/english/index.htm
7. AMD Optimal BIOS settings + Overclocking Guide
http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=gethowto&howtoID=43
8. Tom's Hardware CPU Overclocking Forum (contains a few overclocking guides)
http://www.community.tomshardware.com/forum/postlist.m?Cat=&Board=over_cpu (for CPU)
9. Tom's Hardware Graphic Cards Overclocking Forum (contains a few overclocking guides)
http://www.community.tomshardware.com/forum/postlist.m?Cat=&Board=over_graphics (for Graphic Cards)
For a guide on Modding Tools, please read:
Modding Tools
Please post any comment and/or suggestion as well as dead link of this guide (Version 1.49) at the following thread:
Overclocking Guide Suggestion/Comment
I would like to thank for the help and support from Bas and Wonkanoby as well as advice from Raven_, Slimbooyphat and The Fellow in setting up this guide.

Quote from: ferohh on 01-March-05, 04:39:20
I tried to overclock my p4. 2,66ghz to 3.18ghz.
l increased the cpu fsb only since the multiplier is fixed at 20x.
l tried to change it but couldn´t.
l then increased my cpu voltage from 1.525v to 1.732v.
At 3.2ghz, the computer was on and restarts automatically, so l turned it to 3.18ghz.
does it mean the cpu will not overclock further or l need a new cooler?
I did not overclock anything except the fsb.
any help?
I have a 2.6C Northwood pentium 4 on an MSI 875P Neo2-FISR mobo. On air I'm able to get it to about 3.14Ghz stable. I don't believe it's a good idea to go past 1.6 for the voltage, from what I've read, voltage doesn't help too much with the northwoods.
I can overclock mine higher without any significant changes in temperatures, but the overclocks aren't stable and the system freezes up from time to time. I'm using Kingston HyperX PC4000 DDR, which can run at up to 500mhz, so I can do a 1:1 ratio on the overclock. I'm using a modular 500-watt power supply, Arctic Silver 5 and a huge honking Swiftech heatsink with an 80mm fan.

Any good docks with AM/FM?

I just read Tom's Hardware and they have a nice roundup of iPod docks, but it seems there aren't any for the Touch yet.
The Logitech is the only one with radio and seems very nice. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
I was hoping to get rid of my Onkyo amp and floor standing speakers, but I'll wait until a nice dock comes out.
http://www.tomsguide.com/us/2007/09/20/ipoddockroundup/

I bought an xtrememac Luna in white for my nano as it looks amazing (modern retro - you know the type) plus its got excellent sound on the ipod and also full AM/FM radio and best of all a proper 2 alarm settings alarm clock function - sits by the bed and wakes me up with the playlist entitled "wake up you lazy git"
Best of all it also fits my new touch - result. About £ 80 a year ago from Amazon I think

Mainboard recommendations

I've been running Memtest to determine if the cause of the reboots are because of the memory. I eliminated the heat problem by setting the FSB to 100 (CPU 50 degrees - still seems high but should be low enough). I tested with one module in slot 1, then in slot 2, both produced errors. Tomorrow morning I'll do the other module, but I think errors will occur. Now, I find it hard to believe Crucial will send me two dud modules, so I'm inclined to rule them out. I also hear getting a dud CPU is extremely rare, so that only leaves the mainboard.
As you can see from my signature, it's a MS-6729, but it's supposed to have been upgraded to a K7N2 Delta. Sounds dodgy and so it may be the cause of my problems.
So I've decided to invest in a new mainboard, probably from Abit. Any recommendation on which maker and /or whether it should be VIA or nForce will be very welcome. I've been eyeing up this one, please tell me what you think:
Abit NF7 V2.0 Mainboard for Socket A DDR nForce2 Ultra 400
http://www.komplett.co.uk/k/ki.asp?sku=118267&cks=PRL

Don't know if you're a Tom's Hardware Guide fan, but here's a review. If you hate THG, just look at the graphs and benchmarks and don't read his/their opinion(s). I find that devoid of opinion, the benchies and numbers indicate which I would prefer in terms of performance. After that, it's a matter of looking at the features. The link has that as well.
http://www.tomshardware.com/motherboard/20030721/index.html
My brother has the top end Asus nf2 ultra 400, I recommended it because it has "soundstorm". His budget had a higher ceiling, so getting that was easy for him. BTW, soundstorm didn't disappoint him when he finally hooked up the 5:1 speakers. I went with the MSI Delta L. It fits what I need for now.
Most of who I know have Abit, Asus and now MSI, none of us are disappointed with our systems. They are so close in terms of performance, argueing which is better is foolish. So then you have to argue which is better for features, and that's equally ridiculous for each of us. We all have different hardware at this stage and I wasn't going to let a motherboard dictate whether or not I would have to go nutz and sell everything I have to chase the latest SATA and firewire hardware. USB 2 suits me fine for now.

Multiple drivers no longer install properly

The situation started when I tried to connect a disk drive from another laptop that had died, to my HP Pavilion dv7 Notebook, i7-2630QM, using a USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA HDD/SSD cable I purchased from StarTech.com in order to recover some files. When I connected the cable to the usb 3.0 port the system tried to install the device driver but it was not successfully installed. When I looked into the matter with the Device Manager nothing shows up under disk drives except the internal drive; there is no usb mass storage device under the usb controllers category; instead it has an unknown device with yellow exclamation pt. and an ASMT1051 label with a yellow exclamation point due to a driver install failure. The device listed in the properties specified is c:\windows\system32\drivers\USBSTOR.SYS. In looking for an answer to this condition I went online at Microsoft, Tom's hardware, and Seagate. Following some suggestions that the driver file may be corrupted, I deleted the driver file and rebooted the system. The driver file was reconstructed but no change ensued when I reinserted the cable. Updating the driver, uninstalling the device, etc also had no effect on the problem. All OS updates were also applied to my system.
I then contacted StarTech for some insight into the issue. On their Windows 7 machine the cable [without disk drive attached] worked fine but it didn't use this driver it used the disk.sys and partmgr.sys files. At their suggestion I tried connecting the cable to a Samsung netbook I had running a Win 7 Starter OS without the hard drive. The system detects the cable, installs the driver properly. the device manager sees the cable as a disk drive ASMT2115 usb device. The driver details for this device specifies c:\windows\system32\drivers\disk.sys and partmgr.sys. Under the usb controllers besides the usb composite device it has a usb mass storage device. I also installed the cable on a friend's Windows 8.1 system successfully. This kind of eliminated the cable as the source of the problem.
After this I suspected the dv7 notebook had the problem. In searching the HP support website I found this post http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Pavilion-dv7-6100-Quad-Edition-Entertainment-Notebook-PC-seri...
This post suggested uninstalling the usb root hubs and rebooting the system to alleviate the problem. Upon doing this I ran into multiple failures when rebooting. I now still cannot successfully attach the hdd/usb cable, but I also no longer can log into the system using the fingerprint scanner, and I cannot use my usb connected HP laserJet printer.
I hope this dissertation isn't too disjointed for you to understand. Can you please help me with this issue? I would at least want to get the system back to where I can use my printer so I can print out my income tax forms and other documents. I also have a file which shows the Device Manager listing but I don't know how to attach the file to this post.
Thank you for reading.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi @Mitch8 ,
Thank you for your inquiry.
I understand that you are trying to connect a HDD via USB to 2.5HDD/SSD cable. After uninstalling and reinstalling the USB root hub you had multiple failures on reboot including the fingerprint scanner and HP laserjet printer.
You could try doing a Windows restore back to a known good date to acquire your fingerprint scanner and printer back up and running. If that is successful once you have your income tax and other documents printed off, I would recommend doing a recovery back to factory.
HP Notebook PCs - Using Microsoft System Restore
You could also try running HP Support Assistant to look for HP drivers and software.
You could try reinstalling the HP laserjet printer as that may also work.
Performing an HP system recovery (Windows 7)
There will be an option during the recovery to backup your personal files to prevent data loss.
Restoring Files that were Backed Up Using HP Recovery Manager (Windows 7)
Good Luck!
Sparkles1
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom right to say “Thanks” for helping!

Dual Channel memory problems on Neo 875P

I am having considerable trouble getting the NEO 875P to work with dual channel DDR400 DIMMs. I have two Kingston KVR400X64C25 DDR400 256MB memory modules, each of which works correctly by itself. However, once I move one
of the modules to channel B, I cannot boot my operating system (currently Windows XP.) The problem also occurs in Windows 2000, which I also have on the system. I receive blue screen errors that indicate paging/memory problems. I have upgraded my BIOS to the latest version (1.3)* in the hope that it would solve my problems, but it has not. The POST screen detects that there is 512MB of memory working in Dual Channel mode, but even when it does get through the O/S booting process (rarely), it crashes within minutes. Putting just one of the chips in makes the system perfectly stable. If anyone has any information, please let me know!
Thanks,
Jim Keller
http://www.centerfuse.net
* My board was dead after trying to flash the 1.3 BIOS, but after about 10 attempts of using CTRL+HOME method to recover the BIOS, it finally worked with version 1.0. I then re-flashed with 1.3, and it rebooted fine. Are there any updates about all of the problems with v1.3 ?

>I can only answer based on what I've read on this forum
I figured as much, I was just wondering if you knew whether MSI themselves frequents the forums or answers emails sufficiently.
I've had an interesting development though. I stumbled upon Tom's Hardware Guide's article about 875P motherboards at http://www17.tomshardware.com/motherboard/20030519/i875p-01.html
They mentioned that they needed to increase the memory voltage from 2.5 to 2.6 in the BIOS to get some memory modules to work. I did this, and for the first time, I am running in Dual channel DDR mode. However, the article also mentions that "the system does not run completely stably", so I guess I'll have to wait and see if it crashes again. However, I'm far enough beyond the XP splash screen to post this message, so I guess we're getting somewhere!
-Jim Keller
http://www.centerfuse.net

865PE Neo2 -FIS2R Problems

I purchased a brand new MSI 865PE Neo2-FISR along with a P4 2.4C(OEM), a Thermaltake Spark 5c cooler and a Corsair XMS Twinpack(TWINX512-3200C2PT) of DDR400 memory.
The install went fine, the system booted and ran very well right out of the box. I installed the Live Update program from MSI and it updated itself. I then used that utility to generate a BIOS flash/recovery disk to update the bios from 1.10 to 1.30. The update worked fine and I rebooted the machine into Windows XP with no problems.
I then decided to do some tweaking in the new 1.3 BIOS. After several unsuccessful memory/Dynamic Overclocking settings the system refused to boot. I tried the Clear CMOS jumper to reset the defaults but it still would not boot. I checked the D-Bracket, 3 red 1 green(lower right) which indicates that the video card is not initializing. I attempted reseating the video card (a PNY Geforce4 TI4200) with no luck, I then replaced that card with a GeForce4 MX440 SE with no luck. I tried four other video cards, 2 AGP and 2 PCI, with no success.
At this point I pulled the board out of the system and let it sit with the battery out of the board hoping that the BIOS would reset to default values. I reinstalled the board with all the hardware and again the same D-Bracket error with no video generated. I tried different arrangements of memory using the new Corsairs and various other DDR333 & DDR266 again no luck.
What is going on with this thing? How could an errant timing change completely lock out the VGA card? And why can I not clear the settings to allow the card to initialize?
This thing is getting RMA'd soon if I can't find an answer.
Anyone have any ideas or similiar troubles? X(

Quote
Originally posted by gary172
Another thing I don\'t understand about all the isses with BIOS 1.3, performance, RAM and timings etc, is - How can the 865PE Neo2 - FIS2R pretty much come out at the top of the heap in Tom\'s Hardware Test:
\"The board therefore achieves the best performance in the whole test field.\"
http://www6.tomshardware.com/motherboard/20030707/i875p-46.html
with MAT and DOT enabled, without any apparent negative reports of stability.
Is it that he used a Beta Bios: V1.3B3 (06/12/2003)
Or was his MSI board a \'pre-press release\' mobo similar to the ASUS board and the production versions we are buying are missing certain components?
http://www6.tomshardware.com/motherboard/20030603/865_PAT-06.html
Or did he have \'hand picked\' memory from Corsair \"2 x 256 MB, Corsair PC3200 TwinX\" and didn\'t report it?
There are a lot of reviews lately that have it as one of the fastest MB's around at the moment, here are a handful I found:
http://www.mbreview.com/neo2pe-10.php
http://www.thejemreport.com/reviews/865peneo2.htm
http://www.hardwarezone.com/article...&aid=795&page=1
http://www.hexus.net/review.php?review=564&page=1
http://www.pcstats.com/articleview....eid=1402&page=1
http://www.techview.nl/reviews/2959

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

P7N SLI Platinum Unstable with over 2GB ram and/or dual channel memory on.

Hello need some help or to report something to MSI regarding blue screens, freezes when booting Vista 64 (SP1 + all fixes installed) with more then 2GB ram. Single channel mode works (either 1 stick of 2 GB or 3 sticks of 2GB) and is rock stable. Booting with 2 x 2 or 4 x 2 yields instability and blue screens.
I read over Microsoft's hotfix KB929777 however it appears this patch was applied during SP1. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929777 - when I attempted to apply this hotfix I got the message this update does not apply to your system.
Memory tested in other gaming system using 4 sticks of G.Skill 1066 DDR2 ram and still have the same issues. Other forums like Evga.com, Tom's hardware and 411overkill.com tend to suggest some problem with this new bios version 2.0, written by Nvidia. Some others mention possibly an Nvidia nforce driver issue.
Therefore, under duress during testing - with 1 stick or 3 sticks of ram, all tests perfect and passes all stability tests, good marks in Sandra, plays any game. With 2 or 4 sticks of ram, very unstable won't stay up but for seconds.
Any ideas? (Tested 7 ways until Sunday!)
My other rig, rocks solid and stable with Vista 64.... It's the Evga new mainboard 780i with triple SLI (132-CK-NF78-A1), 8gb of Gskill 1066ddr2, MSI 8800GT (x2 sli mode) Q6600 @ 3.2 ghz - Raid 0 on dual WD caviar 640 gb/sata 3.0gb/sec. Seasonic 700w p/s. 8gb of memory and not a hiccup. Ram 2.0 volts, cpu @ 1.36v. Will handle the memory from both systems with out fault.
Considering I can swap memory back and forth and confirm it's not the sticks, swap graphics boards (own 3 of them!) and rule out that....
Fyi. Any help is appreciated!

Dump question, but have you pickup the correct update e.g. for 64bit? ==> http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyId=91672C7C-614B-404C-850C-377541E93C18&displaylang=en
"This comes inside SP1 for vista 64, as noted with my other system during the build. "
Better double check it.
Install all four memory sticks and do a memory check with >>Memtest86<< 1st, ensure that no error(s) will comes during testing.
Also how about that?:
Quote from: BOSSKILLER on 07-April-08, 23:55:36
Remove your OC then see how its goes.
"When the system boots in single channel mode (only 2 or 6gb of ram meaning 1 or 3 sticks installed into the 4 slots) its' rock stable. When it boots into dual channel mode (2 x 2 sticks or 2 x 4 sticks) extemely unstable. "
That means, timings are too tight, or they need a bit more vcore help, or some of the memory stick has failure.
"MSI P7N SLI Platinum - MS-7380 - Bios 2.0 on Vista Ultimate 64-bit - all updated."
That BIOS is not for your board, you should use 1.xx

Tom's Hardware NF2 Roundup.

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