Z68A-GD65-G3 SLI black screen lock ups

Let me start off by saying I have tried everything and I motivate everyone to prove me wrong and provide me with a solution to this issue.
System spex:
MSI z68A GD65 G3
2600k
Corsair XMS3 1600 16GB
Corsair AX1200
2 - EVGA GTX 580 3GB SLI
Running beta bios: E7681IMS.N49 from -> https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=151148.msg1144560#msg1144560
I have tried almost every BIOS under the sun, including "standard bios" ie flash back to factory BIOS
So here is the issue:
In order to run SLi I have to be at completely stock settings, if I even up the multiplier to x35 on my CPU I black screen as soon as I bench/game on the cards. If I bench only the CPU (prime95) it is fine and no issues. but again as soon as I loud up something graphics wise the screen goes black and locks up.
It isn't the cards either, each card has been tested on its own and in different PCs in SLi.
It is like the motherboard cant handle the power??????
Someone else has to be overclocking and running two power house cards like this without issues? right? what did they do different? what settings? am I missing something?
Or do I need to contact MSI and get a RMA in process.
Before adding the extra card I had my CPU @ 4.7Ghz and when I would bench it I would take it to 5Ghz+ without a issue... solid, never had a BSOD. but this extra card just kills the systems.
Again everything set to stock and the system runs great I can game on it for hours without issues.
Thanks
Nick

Quote from: Bernhard on 30-December-11, 00:22:38
I am not running your PSU down, don't get me wrong. You have the best PSU by general consensus. All I am suggesting is to check it in another system under similar OC conditions with approx the same specs.
It does fine with SLI non OC, yet when you add the extra load of OC, and that can be an additonal 50 to 100W, then the PC becomes problematic.
It could be something else, but one has to start eliminating potential culprits.
Edit: Did you install Virtu ? If so, have you tried deleting it again for a test ?
Oh I understand completely and thank you for your suggestion and time, it helps me to believe that it could be my PSU even more, I am borrowing a PSU from a friend and a PSU tester from work and tonight will get a chance to do some full testing on the PSU.
If that tests out ok I will pull my PSU out and RMA it. hopefully Corsair will have a quick turn around.
Virtu isn't installed, I will double check but it was disabled in BIOS, but i have reset my BIOS so many times I will make sure it still is.
I will report back with my findings.

Similar Messages

MOVED: Z68A-GD65-G3 SLI black screen lock ups

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Undervolting & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=155410.0

Quote from: Bernhard on 30-December-11, 00:22:38
I am not running your PSU down, don't get me wrong. You have the best PSU by general consensus. All I am suggesting is to check it in another system under similar OC conditions with approx the same specs.
It does fine with SLI non OC, yet when you add the extra load of OC, and that can be an additonal 50 to 100W, then the PC becomes problematic.
It could be something else, but one has to start eliminating potential culprits.
Edit: Did you install Virtu ? If so, have you tried deleting it again for a test ?
Oh I understand completely and thank you for your suggestion and time, it helps me to believe that it could be my PSU even more, I am borrowing a PSU from a friend and a PSU tester from work and tonight will get a chance to do some full testing on the PSU.
If that tests out ok I will pull my PSU out and RMA it. hopefully Corsair will have a quick turn around.
Virtu isn't installed, I will double check but it was disabled in BIOS, but i have reset my BIOS so many times I will make sure it still is.
I will report back with my findings.

MSI Z87 GD65 - Hangs on black screen with 9C at bottom right

Pretty much what the title says, 'MSI Z87 GD65 - Hangs on black screen with 9C at bottom right'. Does anyone have any idea why it does this? It hangs for a while before eventually continuing with the start-up, this is most frustrating when I have an SSD and want a quick start-up. I have already looked it up in the manual to no luck. Help?

9C last for me like 1 to 3s, depending on the amount of USB devices attached. If I have only USB printer, keyboard, and mouse attached, it shows for roughly less than 1.5s.

P6N-SLI-FI Random Lock-ups

Hi,
New build listed below. Works great 99% of the time. The only issue I have is infrequent random lock-ups. The lock-ups occur either during windows start-up, or randomly while doing some non-stressing task (like web browsing or word processing). Currently at 2.4GHz, but have had it higher. I lowered it to 2.4 to see if it made any difference, but it seems about the same.
Since "lock-up" can mean a lot of different things I will describe it. The screen freezes totally. Does not respond to any input (CTR-ALT-DEL) etc. It often seems to occur in the middle of HDD access, and the HDD light stays on continuously. Hard reset is required to fix.
It has not locked up during a game, burning or transcoding a DVD or when running any stress tests. It happens VERY INFREQUENTLY (I just had my first one in about a week) and is not repeatable. The only other bit of info I can come up with is that is seems that it usually occurs during HDD access, and the HDD light is stuck on.
I almost wish I had the problem more often. If I had this problem regularly I would feel pretty comfortable troubleshooting, but as it is I could spend a lot of time changing things around and "think" I fixed it only to have it come back a week later.
My thoughts are either a RAM issue or my PSU. Thoughts?

Quote from: JoeFriday on 20-March-07, 12:18:23
Hi,
New build listed below. Works great 99% of the time. The only issue I have is infrequent random lock-ups. The lock-ups occur either during windows start-up, or randomly while doing some non-stressing task (like web browsing or word processing). Currently at 2.4GHz, but have had it higher. I lowered it to 2.4 to see if it made any difference, but it seems about the same.
Since "lock-up" can mean a lot of different things I will describe it. The screen freezes totally. Does not respond to any input (CTR-ALT-DEL) etc. It often seems to occur in the middle of HDD access, and the HDD light stays on continuously. Hard reset is required to fix.
It has not locked up during a game, burning or transcoding a DVD or when running any stress tests. It happens VERY INFREQUENTLY (I just had my first one in about a week) and is not repeatable. The only other bit of info I can come up with is that is seems that it usually occurs during HDD access, and the HDD light is stuck on.
I almost wish I had the problem more often. If I had this problem regularly I would feel pretty comfortable troubleshooting, but as it is I could spend a lot of time changing things around and "think" I fixed it only to have it come back a week later.
My thoughts are either a RAM issue or my PSU. Thoughts?
Do you have all the necessary options for overclocking disabled, C1E, EIST, all the spread spectrums. Also what are your cpu voltage and NB voltage set at...those two seem to have the most effect on system stability when ocing. Also what are your memory settings... I have your same memory and it refuses to work at anything but its advertised setting (800mhz at 4-4-4-15)

PSU causing lock ups when gaming? K9A2 Platinum

I am having black screen and occasionally grey screen lock ups when Im playing games. It can happen within 10 minutes or up to an hour. I have to press the power button to restart and dont get any windows errors or blue screen. I have no issues when watching videos or just tooling around. My PSU is a OCZ600MXSP and Im thinking its not up to spec. I have everything running stock. Is it likely my PSU doesnt cut it or is the black/grey screen freeze thing an cpu/gpu overheating issue?

All of my drivers are up to date (I do use driver sweeper as well). It happens pretty much in all games, from BFBC2 and TF2 to some crappy kid game my son plays online (Wizard 101?). Im not sure what the temps are under load but at idle they are good (cant recall what exactly they were but were in the proper temp range). My monitor has just finally died as Im typing this on my laptop (bad caps on power board ) so Ill test the temps while gaming when I can hook it up to my big LCD.
Could the lock up with no blue screen/error report indicate a component overheating?

Correct black screen in apps on iPad mini?

After upgrading to iOS 7 on my iPad mini2 I am seeing a black screen locking access to an app. How can I correct it, the app is Words with friends.

Try this - Reset the iPad by holding down on the Sleep and Home buttons at the same time for about 10-15 seconds until the Apple Logo appears - ignore the red slider - let go of the buttons. (This is equivalent to rebooting your computer.) No data/files will be erased.
 Cheers, Tom

Finally a SOLUTION for the black-screen problem!

It took me almost a MONTH to find a solution to this wide-spread problem - and I had to do it by myself.
I've got a Qosmio x300 (about 18 months old) and started having the black screen / lock-down problem about 6 months ago but it was sporadic. When it started getting worse, I took it in for repair, made sure it was cleaned religiously, had both a cooling pad and household fan directed at it to eliminate any possible overheating issue, made sure all of the *Toshiba* drivers were up to date according to their site, etc... The problem kept getting worse - to the point where I couldn't even open a browser without the dumb thing crashing. VERY frustrating to say the least.
Finally I gave up - I removed the nVidia driver that ran the GeForce 9700M GTS video card and used the standard VGA driver. No more lock downs, but it limited what I could do because the on-board memory wasn't being utilized. I re-installed the *Toshiba* drivers for the card and presto - lock-downs again.
Fed up, I went directly to the nVidia download page and chose to have it automatically detect my card. Now, granted, it says to try to use the OEM versions of graphics, but Toshiba's drivers are FLAWED! I installed the driver suggested directly from nVidia, and what do you know? Full use of the card again and not a single crash!
I hope all of my frustration, and the solution that resulted from it, can help someone else not have to waste time, money, and hair on their heads as it did with me. =) The sad part about it all - this is a TOSHIBA flaw that affects a wide range of systems and models - and nothing has or is being done about it.
Good luck! =)
Dave (Montreal, Canada)

Which version of the nVidia driver did you use?

Disgusted with HP Elite m9280a constant/random freezes, lock ups, BSOD, black screen

constant/random freezes, lock ups, BSOD, black screen.
I have been trying to trouble shoot this PC for almost a day now. weird problems like when 3 sticks of memory is present it wil not boot but it will boot on 1 and on 2 sticks will have hangs?
disappointed tot the max... u think HP TOTAL CARE - u pay extra thinking u are going to get a decent system...
i have run diagnostics on all major components... still no luck
someone please help - i have never spent sooo much time trying to repair a pc

Try this bootable memory diagnostic tool:
Download memtest86 iso file and burn it to disk using Imgburn.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

P7N SLI Platinum lock-ups

My specs:
Q6600 stock speed
Kingston HyperX pc8500 2x 1gb. I manually set it to it's rated timings, voltage and frequency. I have also tried different ram, from Exceleram and it makes no difference.
2x Asus EN8800GT 512mb cards (tried using just one card too, tried switching to a different 8800gt card from sparkle too, no change.)
HDD: Have tried several hard drives, pata and sata from probably all the manufacturers, i dont see why i need to post their specs since they problem persists nomatter what hdd i use.
Windows XP SP3 proffessional.
nothing else is in the system, i removed every piece of hardware, like sound card, optical drive, etc. to isolate the problem.
Power supply: Thermaltake ToughPower 700W
BIOS Version: the beta bios posted on this forum that supposedly fixes the video corruption bug (it doesnt). Also tried 1.0 and 1.1
The problem: random lock-ups. Sometimes it doesnt happen for 2 days and then BAM! Its happening every 15 minutes now. It might stop happening for another 12 hours and start locking up again. It only ever happens when im working in 2d applications like browsing, using messenger or IRC, watching videos on youtube or in a media player, or just moving files around or anything mundane like that. it once happened when i wasnt touching the keyboard or mouse at all, i was waiting for some files to finish copying over LAN. I also get the famous video corruption but it is EXTREMELY rare, like once a month. It crashed the last time the video corruption appeared, once i tried to click the player to pause, the system crashed. The system will never lock up while playing games, i play medieval II total war for days without any problems. The store i bought the p7n from tested it for me and they said it worked fine, but they used an ATI card so that may be a clue? Then again, they are really incompetent and didnt run the right set of tests, and ignored what i had told them about the nature of the crashes.
Detailed description of the events: System freezes, first everything except the mouse is frozen but if i try to click with the mouse, it freezes too and the screen flashes a black screen every few seconds. it never recovers and i have to shut it down by holding the power button for several seconds. some of the 2d graphics in windows get corrupted with artifacts, and the mouse does get heavily corrupted usually.
What i've tried:
I thought the mobo was defective but it isnt, i got a new mobo from the store and it has the same problem.
Tried working my way through every combination of memory timings, frequencies and voltages that i thought might make a difference but it has no difference on the crashes.
All the hardware works perfectly in my Asus P5N32-E SLI motherboard (i bought this msi mobo for some different reasons that i wont go into here), so theres nothing wrong with any of my components.
The only item i've not had the oportunity to switch with a different one is the power supply, but again, it works perfectly with all other motherboards that i've tried.
Is this possibly related to the video corruption bug? Does anyone have any idea when the next bios release is due? Please help, it sucks to buy an expensive motherboard that just doesnt work. i'll have to buy a 3rd sli mobo if I cant fix this.
PS: Is it not possible to regulate fan speed for sysfans connected to the mobo's fan connectors? My asus mobo had great fan speed controls in the bios, if this one doesnt have any such options, i call that ridiculous.

I appreciate your effort, guys. I've tried running the memory in 800mhz and on auto timings and on some other timings too (i was kinda desperate and i messed around with the memory configuration for days with no success), and tried auto volt (it gets set to 1.8 which the memory is rated for at 800mhz) and tried 1.9 and 2.0 and 2.1 and 2.2 and i've tried completely different memory modules too that i borrowed, and tried running in single channel with both modules and running just 1 module. none of these experiments had any effect on the crashes :\. But don't you think this could be related to the video corruption bug? I always thought it was, since this problem doesnt seem to happen for me when there is an ATI card in the system. Not that my 8800gt cards are defective in any way either, they are rock solid on my other motherboard.
I have one more theory, some weird inexplicable compatibility problem between this particular PSU and this particular mobo. Think it's a possibility? The psu is the only thing i have not switched out for another component, every other component i have switched for another one that was known to be working fine.
also, there is the extremely distant possibility that the issue is caused by an issue that the mobo might have with BOTH the kingston and the excelleram modules that i tried, however this seems far-fetched. but this problem is a fact and SOMETHING is causing it. i've eliminated almost everything i can think of.

Screen problems - black screen and lock-up (plus HDMI issues)

Hi, I'm not sure if these are related to the same fundamental issue, but they are both serious problems that need resolution.
I have a new mid-2012 MBPretina. I am on all the latest updates (10.8.2).
The first problem is the most recent, and the most serious problem. Since I updated the Java a couple of days ago I've been experiencing random black screens and lock-ups. Essentially, what happens is that sometimes when I perform an action (opening an app, clicking a link on a webpage, performing other kinds of in-app actions, etc.) the computer screen will go black. About half the time I can, through my own memory, try keyboard combinations to quit or force quit the most recently used app (the one where the action was just performed), and I will get some glimpse of the underlying apps, while the menubar and other areas will remain black until I move a window on top of the black space. Sometimes no key combinations work and I am forced to perform a hard restart with the power button. This is a serious issue, obviously, since I will lose current work/progress in my apps. I'm not sure if this is because of the new Java update, or has to do with something else, but it started happening shortly thereafter, over the last 2 days. I work most of my waking day on my laptop, and this "black screen of death" has happened about 5 or 6 times a day.
The second problem I have been experiencing since I starting using my MBPr with external HDMI displays in August/September. The problem is that I will plug the MBPr into an HDMI display, the screen will temporaliy go black, and then bring me to the login screen (as if it's crashing, albeit softly). This happens about 1 out of 4 times nowadays.
How can I fix these problems, especially the first?

UPDATE:
Clearly there's a problem because a third of the way through a clean reinstallation from scratch it black screened again. Hmmmm.
Now this is not good. Problem is I can't rule out potential updates from Apple that might have caused this either.
The search for solutions continues.

I am getting frequent lock-ups and blue screens during boot up. The lock ups occur during normal use and I cannot click anything or force quit. The cursor shows something is loading, but never stops. I have to use power button. Ideas?

I am getting frequent lock-ups and blue screens during boot up on my Mac Pro. The lock- ups occur sometimes during normal use and I cannot click anything or force quit. The cursor shows something is loading, but never stops. I have to use power button.
I had the Mac Defender malware and I have used apple jack but still having issues.

I am getting frequent lock-ups and blue screens during boot up on my Mac Pro. The lock- ups occur sometimes during normal use and I cannot click anything or force quit. The cursor shows something is loading, but never stops. I have to use power button.
I had the Mac Defender malware and I have used apple jack but still having issues.

10.5.7 Fundamental Incompatibility with Mac Pro - Screen/System Lock ups

Hi all.
It looks like 10.5.7 is causing a lot of problems, but I think I found a problem that is very fundamental.
First, my system. It's one of the original Mac Pros with Quad Xeons at 2.66GHz. It has 24GB of RAM and several drives in there. I have 3 30" displays plugged into 3 NVIDIA GeForce 7300GT cards. I originally ran a 10.5.7 combo update on my 10.5.6 system, and experienced these problems (detailed below). As I was also running a beta of iTunes and the iPhone SDK (the 3rd release), and beta 2 of Safari 4, I thought this may have caused some trouble. So, I tried an experiment.
I bought a new Corsair 256GB SSD for my startup drive. Loaded my family pack of 10.5.6 onto it as a fresh install, and just applied the 10.5.7 combo update. I get the exact same behavior with no further software. So, this is a fundamental incompatibility of 10.5.7 with a machine having these specs.
Now the problems. They start with the primary (in my case center) screen locking while the other two screens keep working. Meaning, the primary display "works" but none of the windows move, the clock freezes...yet, if you move the mouse there and luckily grab a window, you could move it out onto the other 2 displays and it would allow you to continue to use the application. If you hit the CONTROLkey and scroll up and down (zooming the display in and out) it can sometimes "unlock" the primary display, but then there are many artifacts. For example, the shadows cast by windows appear as plain grey "dashboard esque" blocks and have black stripes at the edges. Also, at random times, the machine just seems to hang completely, and unlock a minute or 2 later. Eventually it locks for good.
Unfortunately this has lead me into a deadlock situation. My iTunes has been updated to the 3rd beta in the iPhone 3.0 SDK release. The library has been modified and only works with that version now. That version requires 10.5.7. So if I revert back to 10.5.6, I lose my iTunes Library or have to wait till the offical version of iTunes is realeased (although that may still require 10.5.7).
I see lots of people are having Firewire (800 in particular) problems, and I have several drives I need on Firewire. It's not a solution to yank them. It all works fine under 10.5.6, of course.
So the question is...is help on it's way? What to do!?
Thanks for any insights.
More info on the system below:
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: Mac Pro
Model Identifier: MacPro1,1
Processor Name: Dual-Core Intel Xeon
Processor Speed: 2.66 GHz
Number Of Processors: 2
Total Number Of Cores: 4
L2 Cache (per processor): 4 MB
Memory: 24 GB
Bus Speed: 1.33 GHz
Boot ROM Version: MP11.005C.B08
SMC Version (system): 1.7f10
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT:
Chipset Model: NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-1
PCIe Lane Width: x8
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: NVIDIA (0x10de)
Device ID: 0x0393
Revision ID: 0x00a1
ROM Revision: 3008
Displays:
Cinema HD:
Resolution: 2560 x 1600
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
Display Connector:
Status: No Display Connected
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT:
Chipset Model: NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-2
PCIe Lane Width: x8
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: NVIDIA (0x10de)
Device ID: 0x0393
Revision ID: 0x00a1
ROM Revision: 3008
Displays:
Cinema HD:
Resolution: 2560 x 1600
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Main Display: Yes
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
Display Connector:
Status: No Display Connected
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT:
Chipset Model: NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-3
PCIe Lane Width: x4
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: NVIDIA (0x10de)
Device ID: 0x0393
Revision ID: 0x00a1
ROM Revision: 3008
Displays:
Cinema HD:
Resolution: 2560 x 1600
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
Display Connector:
Status: No Display Connected
ATA Bus:
SONY DVD RW DW-D150A:
Model: SONY DVD RW DW-D150A
Revision: 1.MD
Serial Number:
Detachable Drive: No
Protocol: ATAPI
Unit Number: 0
Socket Type: Internal
Low Power Polling: No
Power Off: No
TSSTcorpCD/DVDW SH-S162L:
Model: TSSTcorpCD/DVDW SH-S162L
Revision: LC02
Serial Number:
Detachable Drive: No
Protocol: ATAPI
Unit Number: 1
Socket Type: Internal
Low Power Polling: No
Power Off: No
FireWire Bus:
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Built-in Hub:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
FreeAgent Go FW:
Manufacturer: Seagate
Model: 0x2200
GUID: 0x20370200105F82
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Up to 200 Mb/sec
Sub-units:
FreeAgent Go FW Unit:
Unit Software Version: 0x10483
Unit Spec ID: 0x609E
Firmware Revision: 0x110
Product Revision Level: 410G
Sub-units:
FreeAgent Go FW SBP-LUN:
Capacity: 149.05 GB
Removable Media: Yes
BSD Name: disk5
Mac OS 9 Drivers: No
Partition Map Type: GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported
Volumes:
Seagate149GBTote:
Capacity: 148.73 GB
Available: 132.95 GB
Writable: Yes
File System: Case-sensitive Journaled HFS+
BSD Name: disk5s2
Mount Point: /Volumes/Seagate149GBTote
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
GUID: 0x0
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
OEM ATA Device 00:
Manufacturer: OEM
Model: 0x0
GUID: 0x30E102E0454B7D
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Up to 200 Mb/sec
Sub-units:
OEM ATA Device 00 Unit:
Unit Software Version: 0x10483
Unit Spec ID: 0x609E
Firmware Revision: 0x110
Product Revision Level:
Sub-units:
OEM ATA Device 00 SBP-LUN:
Capacity: 931.51 GB
Removable Media: Yes
BSD Name: disk4
Mac OS 9 Drivers: No
Partition Map Type: GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported
Volumes:
TimeMachine:
Capacity: 931.19 GB
Available: 606.63 GB
Writable: Yes
File System: Case-sensitive Journaled HFS+
BSD Name: disk4s2
Mount Point: /Volumes/TimeMachine
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Memory Slots:
ECC: Enabled
DIMM Riser A/DIMM 1:
Size: 4 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x8551
Part Number: 0x373254353132393230454641335343322020
Serial Number: 0x02007D11
DIMM Riser A/DIMM 2:
Size: 4 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x8551
Part Number: 0x373254353132393230454641335343322020
Serial Number: 0x02006013
DIMM Riser B/DIMM 1:
Size: 4 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x8551
Part Number: 0x373254353132393230454641335343322020
Serial Number: 0x0200711F
DIMM Riser B/DIMM 2:
Size: 4 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x8551
Part Number: 0x373254353132393230454641335343322020
Serial Number: 0x02007012
DIMM Riser A/DIMM 3:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x830B
Part Number: 0x4E54324754373255344E4231424E2D334320
Serial Number: 0xA4730244
DIMM Riser A/DIMM 4:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x830B
Part Number: 0x4E54324754373255344E4231424E2D334320
Serial Number: 0x70780241
DIMM Riser B/DIMM 3:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x830B
Part Number: 0x4E54324754373255344E4231424E2D334320
Serial Number: 0xE4760245
DIMM Riser B/DIMM 4:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x830B
Part Number: 0x4E54324754373255344E4231424E2D334320
Serial Number: 0xF0770241

I can only tell you that I've run 10.5.7 on my Mac Pro, same model as yours, without any problems. As a beta tester my Mac Pro was the main hardware on which 10.5.7 was tested. I currently have it installed on a first generation iMac, MacBook, and MacBook Pro as well as a second generation MacBook Pro. So far not a single problem.
But, I don't have multiple video cards nor do I use any beta version of iTunes (didn't know there was one since each system upgrade includes the current release) but I do use the Safari 4 Beta - the most recent version just released when 10.5.7 was released.)
I can suggest you read the following about updates of system software:
Essential Steps Before Updating OS X!
Please do things right before updating OS X in order to avoid problems.
A. Repair Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger and Leopard.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer. Now restart normally.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior (4.0 for Tiger, and 4.1 for Leopard) and/or TechTool Pro (4.6.1 for Leopard) to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
B. Clone Using Restore Option of Disk Utility
1. Open Disk Utility from the Utilities folder.
2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
3. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (journaled, if available) and click on the Erase button. This step can be skipped if the destination has already been freshly erased.
4. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
5. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it to the Destination entry field.
6. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to the Source entry field.
7. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Destination means your backup drive (should be erased first.)
Source means your startup drive or volume.
C. Download the Standalone Combo Updater from Apple.
Be sure you quit all running applications and disconnect all peripherals (except original keyboard and mouse) before running the installer. When the installer is running do not use the computer in any way other than to respond to an installer dialog.
Install the update by double-clicking on the installer package icon. When the installation is completed Restart the computer. Your computer will boot twice - this is normal. Upon completion of the update use Disk Utility to repair permissions. Not all permissions will seem repaired. You will get spurious reports regarding permissions related to iTunes, Front Row. These can be ignored. They will appear every time you repair permissions.
Following these basic steps should prevent most if not all updating problems. Note that if you have unrepairable disk problems reported in Step A then DO NOT update your system until those problems are resolved.
If you find that you did not follow these suggestions, then you might consider reinstalling OS X and going about the process properly in the hope of a successful result:
How to Perform an Archive and Install
An Archive and Install will NOT erase your hard drive, but you must have sufficient free space for a second OS X installation which could be from 3-9 GBs depending upon the version of OS X and selected installation options. The free space requirement is over and above normal free space requirements which should be at least 6-10 GBs. Read all the linked references carefully before proceeding.
1. Be sure to use Disk Utility first to repair the disk before performing the Archive and Install.
Repairing the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then quit DU and return to the installer.
2. Do not proceed with an Archive and Install if DU reports errors it cannot fix. In that case use Disk Warrior and/or TechTool Pro to repair the hard drive. If neither can repair the drive, then you will have to erase the drive and reinstall from scratch.
3. Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When you reach the screen to select a destination drive click once on the destination drive then click on the Option button. Select the Archive and Install option. You have an option to preserve users and network preferences. Only select this option if you are sure you have no corrupted files in your user accounts. Otherwise leave this option unchecked. Click on the OK button and continue with the OS X Installation.
4. Upon completion of the Archive and Install you will have a Previous System Folder in the root directory. You should retain the PSF until you are sure you do not need to manually transfer any items from the PSF to your newly installed system.
5. After moving any items you want to keep from the PSF you should delete it. You can back it up if you prefer, but you must delete it from the hard drive.
6. You can now download a Combo Updater directly from Apple's download site to update your new system to the desired version as well as install any security or other updates. You can also do this using Software Update.

Aperture 3.1 - Love Full Screen Mode, Hate The System Lock-Ups

Hi Guys,
I don't know if I'm the only person encountering this issue but Aperture 3 is driving me nuts. While I absolutely love the program and the full-screen mode, what I hate is the frequent lock-ups that force me to completely restart my iMac. Having the application lock-up is highly annoying but at least in "normal" mode I could kill the application from the Dock or Activity Monitor. However, when I'm operating in full-screen mode then I can't switch out of the application and seem to have no option but to completely restart my computer. This problem, which I first started experiencing with version 3.0 but which does seem to have been addressed in version 3.1, is happening so often that I'm afraid now to even use full-screen mode.
This problem only, to my memory, seems to happen when making adjustments but it does not seem to matter which adjustment. In the most recent occurrence the lock-up happened when I cancelled the application of a Crop by clicking the X icon on the Crop HUD.
Does anyone know either a) what might be causing the lock-ups, or b) how I can kill Aperture without having to completely restart my computer?

You could also set up SPACES to see if that works when lock up occurs in full screen
Apple Icon > System Preference > Desktop & Screen Saver > Hot corners
I have bottom left set to spaces
Then drop the mouse to bottom left, 4 windows appear, drag aperture to a seperate window and run there, you desktop is in a different space and can be accessed by bottom left of screen mouse movement (if the mouse works when A3 locks up)

IPhone black screen does not show anything, but I can hear that the device works. I hear the lock open the screen and hear the iPod but the screen remains black

IPhone black screen does not show anything, but I can hear that the device works. I hear the lock open the screen and hear the iPod but the screen remains black!!

It's happened to me before as well. Try holding both lock(top right) and home buttons simultaneously until u see a slight flash of wight then just reboot it normally. If that doesn't work try restoring your device from itunes

My iphone 5 has a black screen and is unresponsive and it also has a broken lock button can anyone help?

I have an iphone 5 that ive had for two years. i plugged it in for the night to charge, and when i woke up it had a black screen. i tried to wake it up using the home button since my lock button does not work. ive tried to hold the lock and home button down for a certain amount of time, but it doesnt work, and im not sure if its the lock button or if my phone is just burnt out. please help.

Hey there mafro37,
Welcome to Apple Support Communities.
The articles linked below will help you troubleshoot the issues that you’ve described, where both the Sleep/Wake button isn’t responding and the iPhone 5 only displays a blank black screen.
Get help with buttons and switches on your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch - Apple Support
Get help with the screen on your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch - Apple Support
Take care,
-Jason

Z68A-GD65-G3 SLI black screen lock ups

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