Jitter in 24p images

I shot a feature with the Panasonic AG-DVX100A using the 24p mode (not 24p advanced)and edited it on Final Cut Pro. Now, whenever I try to burn a DVD or output to tape, the image has an annoying jitter/flicker effect that was not present in the source material. Anyone have ideas on what the best way is to bring my movie into DVD Studio Pro and output a version that looks correct?

All NTSC cameras record 23.976 rather than actual 24P so this difference shouldn't really be an issue.
The frame dropping is odd, but I wouldn't be surprised by odd behavior because it appears you've been using FCP settings that were designed for 24P Advanced while your footage is not advanced. This is likely a cadence error due to the differences between your footage and advanced footage.
If you plan on editing in 23.98, you should use the 24P advanced setting on the DVX. The non-advanced 24P pulldown cadence is not compatible with the feature that FCP uses when removing the pulldown at capture from advanced footage.
If you recorded in 24P non-advance, you would probably have a better time just editing in 29.97fps or using Cinema Tools to remove the pulldown manually. Editing the footage in 29.97 will basically look the same as editing in 23.98 as long as you aren't doing any really advanced rotoscoping or scaling of footage.
Don't rely on FCP to remove Pulldown from non-advanced footege during capture.
I may be wrong about this, so please verify this in the FCP manual. That's where I learned this. Good luck.

Similar Messages

Jitter / Judder / degraded image quality on HD to SD downres for broadcast

I work for Australian television and am having jitter/judder issues when HD detail (in my case 1080p25 XDCAM EX) is downresed to SD (DVCPRO50i50) for broadcast.
From the Final Cut Pro 6.0.5 XDCAM sequence I choose Export Quicktime Movie and set it to PAL DV50.
(I don't use Compressor in this step because it consistently throws away about 5% of the pixels on the left and right edges of the image...bizarre!)
At our TV station they play my Quicktime DV50 out to DVCPRO50 tape from FCP without rendering.
I also encode a preview DVD from the same DV50 Quicktime file.
The DV50 Quicktime movie, the tape playout, AND the DVD ALL show a noticeable degree of jitter in fine detail when viewed on broadcast interlace monitors. But it scraped through tech checks.
It's when it's broadcast that it suddenly becomes terrible (I suspect these issues are probably amplified by the compression levels of digital TV here in Australia!)
I'll post a still which I screen captured from the digital broadcast yesterday.
You can see the loss of quality on anything that was sharp - eg. the nearest French Horn and the caption credit.
Detail on both dances like crazy when the film plays on my LCD monitor!
If anybody has any suggestions, please do let me know, as I can't find any other posts on downres issues.
Thanks!
Adam

Adam Sebire wrote:
I'd like to believe FCP is actually sophisticated enough to deliver broadcast-quality results on its own, 6 versions down the track!
FCP can and does produce broadcast quality video on a daily basis all over the world. Your problem is unique to your situation and not indicative of FCP's overall capabilities.
In my opinion the DV codec is not broadcast quality despite the fact that it's often used as such. It's a horrible codec with regards to fine detail, thin edges and graphics in general. Standard def as a format is not kind to thin font types either since there are only 480 horizontal lines of resolution compared to 1080 lines in HD.
Compressor does a better job of downrezzing than FCP because of the fine detail controls it has. It's part of the suite for that reason just like Motion is used for complex compositing even though you can composite in FCP. If you're having a problem with encodes in Compressor, I think THAT might actually be your real problem. You should try googling a program called Compressor Repair. It may be able to help.
If you're determined to stay in FCP, you should try nesting into an Uncompressed 8-bit sequence instead of DV. The Uncompressed codec has a much better chance of handling the fine detail in your HD signal than the DV codec does.
Andy

Weighing in on NTSC video-to-24p conversion

24p deinterlacing after the fact - from regular NTSC video I find to be inherently flawed. I love the idea of it, and it comes very close to being acceptable. But the more I fuss with it, the more I encounter its "silent movie/image dropping" effect.
Every fifth field is parted with in one way or another, though there are various choices in choosing fields and blending deinterlace protocols and motion blur. However, current technology offers wonderful options for controlling the image in terms of contrast, gamma and diffusion.
True 24 frame per second film and HD divide each passing second by 24 and convert to interlaced video via the tried and true 3:2 pulldown process . On the other hand, the "24p from NTSC" conversion process forces dropped fields leading to a subtle staggered motion. In the end, its a choice between choppiness and excessive motion blur.
The eye is much more accepting of the core math of the 3/2 pulldown. When you think that you are viewing 3 fields of a still image followed by 2, followed by 3, (etc) you would think the eye would react against it, but not so.
Of course, there's 30p conversion from NTSC. I think this is much more useful.
I have deliberately avoided mentioning any product by name here. After month's of toying with the technology, I've arrived at my theory on what the limitations seem to be in practice, and am submitting my opinions for what they are worth.
Chris

Specifically, Nattress Film Efx. I find the 24p frame rate option to be an issue for the reasons I described. I've been seeing a lot of stroby 24p images from various sources lately and it finally dawned on me that there's just no way to make NTSC to 24p completely smooth like film or HD. I am very happy with the Nattress program in all other respects. It is excellent and a great value. In fact, from what I've seen of Graham's approach to technology, we are quite lucky to have him. Check out his Cool Blur and G Beauty filters sometime. They are awesome.
Chris

Screen jitter at transition

I am having an issue with a jitter in my image at transitions. The jitter shows up in the Canvas and on outputted media (not on the production monitor). It is only a few pixels tall at the top of the screen. It occurs on the frame right after the transition ends. At first I thought it was Broadcast Safe filter issue. I have since removed that filter and just used color corrector, but I still have the issue on video that didn't have that filter. The video is 8-bit uncompressed and I am running FCP 5.0.4. Has anyone seen this before? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Here is an example.
 Dual 2 GHz Power PC G5 Mac OS X (10.4.6)

I usually see these types of glitched, with that bright green color, when there is something about the clip that FCP or QT doesn't like. I can see that the glicth is actually appearing in the frame after the transition. If you uncheck the filters for the clip, does it make thee glitch go away, or does it appear in both rendered and native media?
You might try switching around your render settings and see if it helps. You may wish to put a test with two clips into a new sequence, otherwise your long sequence will lose all the renders each time you change the settings.
If you can determine that specific clip to tbe cause of the problem, you might try recapturing or exporting that master clip and replacing the clip in your edit.

ATI X1900 exhibits random display glitches on a Mac Pro

My ATI card has been displaying bizarre and random glitches on my Mac Pro. I am running a dual screen setup: a brand new Samsung SyncMaster 21" lcd and an ancient 15" Apple Studio Display.
On the Samsung, the most common problem I get is what looks like video jitter (the entire image shakes to the right very quickly at random intervals) every couple of seconds. When the problem gets really bad, I start to notice thin horizontal red lines flickering at random places across the entire screen. Both happen while using the computer and during the boot/reboot process... on the old Apple screen, the problem is less noticeable, usually it's just a very quick flash on the screen that can happen every 15 minutes or so. Sometimes a restart clears up the problem but it doesn't always work. I have also tested my machine with a 17" Formac LCD and it displays the red lines as well.
Unfortunately, there does not seem to be a consistent pattern of why this is happening... sometimes it starts only after several hours of use, other times it will start after waking from sleep. Zapping PRAM and resetting the PMU doesn't seem to have any effect.I have put the stock nVidia card in the machine and all the problems go away. This card was actually replaced by Apple last week and things were fine for a few hours but then the problems returned and has gotten worse since then.
Does this sound like the video card is still defective, or could it possibly be the Mac Pro itself?
Jay
Mac Pro Mac OS X (10.4.8)

I would get back into contact with AppleCare and see what they can do. It might well be a driver issue so if you have a drive available, try installing a clean copy of Max OS X onto it, update it to Mac OS X 10.4.8 and see it if makes a difference.

PE11 Rip from DVD- putting a menu on- burning that to DVD ruins quality

First, I've read some things here and there, but can't find the exact same scenarios in other posts, although I'm sure this is a fairly common problem (SIAP):
Here is a summary of the issue:
1) Our guy produced a video for our organization and gave me a DVD-R of the 11 minute project. I imported this into PE11 and on the timeline it says .VOB. Now on the desktop, the 481 mb VTS_01_1 file properties state that it is 720x480, 29 fps... although I find it strange that the clip as imported into PE11 in properties in the project assets window says it's 23.976 frame rate. Making things more confusing (don't even know if any of this matters) is that in an instance of Share->Export to Computer, the "source" says the video is 1920x1080, 29.97 fps. Don't know if any of this matters...
2) Anyways, the reason I ripped it is for the sole purpose of creating a menu on the DVD. So I picked a "HD" template, imported my own JPEG on to it, then attempted as best I could to erase all the buttons except for "Play Movie." AGain, not sure if the Menu functionality has anything to do with the issue, but I figured I'd mention it.
3) I've tried several times burning the video with both DVD-R and +R using both NTSC Dolby and Widescreen Dolby to burn to DVD.
The resulting DVD has a degraded, fuzzy image and the black frame lines at bottom and top seem to bounce and jitter.
The image on the original DVD is clearly HD and looks great, without any bouncing, jittering, etc. Also, the DVD app i used to watch the original on my computer is the same as I used to watch my own burned DVD... So PE11 has clearly degraded the image, something is going on in the export.
Another thing worth mentioning is that as I look at the video footage in PE11 on full screen, I can see that even in PE11, the video quality is not the same as the original DVD and there are obvious artifacts and just nonsense in the picture... Not necessarily as bad as the burn, but similar.
I've done a little reading on these forums about .VOB files... I don't fully understand them. Is it that the image is messed up from the beginning with an import from DVD? IS there a way to do what I want (take hiqual video from a DVD, put a menu on it, then burn it back onto DVD?) with PE11? Or is the only way to make a burn from the original source file before it was burned the first place?
computer specs:
lenovo P500
Intel Core i7 3520M 2.90 gHz
8gb RAM
windows 8 64-bit

LorcanPMiller
Please get a MediaInfo readout of your VOB at the onset to determine what you have, especially standard or widescreen.
http://mediainfo.sourceforge.net/en
Special Interest: Frame size, Frame rate, Display 4:3 or 16:9, Scan Type and Scan Order for which I am expecting Interlaced and Lower Field First.
Here is my take on your situation.
1. The Canon 6D can capture 1080p video (1920 x 1080 16:9 at 29.97 or 30 frames per second), but from what you wrote somewhere along the line someone put that through a video "authoring" program to convert it into DVD-VIDEO format on a DVD disc (720 x 480). At this point, we need to know standard or widescreen. Both standard and widescreen will be 720 x 480, but the widescreen will have a 16:9 flag included to stretch the video for display after encoding.
Question:
a. What is on that DVD disc....just a file name VTS_01_1 (file size 481 MB) or two folders named OpenDVD and VIDEO_TS? If you have a file, for Premiere Elements 11, you would use Add Media/Files and Folders to get the file in Project Assets. If you have the DVD disc in the DVD burner tray, you would use Add Media/DVD Camera or Computer Drive to rip the VOB and get the VOB into the project.
b.Your project is going to get messed up and confusing, if you let the program set the project preset for you. You will most likely end up with the default NTSC AVCHD Full HD1080i30 which is inappropriate for your project. So, before thinking or acting on Get Media....open a new project, go to File Menu/New/Project and set the project preset in the New Project dialog for NTSC DV Standard or NTSC DV Widescreen depending on what you find beforehand about the properties of your VOB MediaInfo Then use Add Media/and the appropriate choice based on what I wrote above about VOB already ripped vs DVD-VIDEO ripping.
c. When you have your VOB on the TImeline with the appropriate project setting, right click the file in Project Assets and verify Premiere Elements 11's interpretation of the file frame rate and other to determine if it agrees with the MediaInfo readout. It would be very unusual if there was a differnce, but...
d. Whether you have a NTSC or PAL project, all the SD DVD Templates have a frame size of 720 x 576 (PAL sizing). The ones tagged HD have a 1440 x 1080 frame size. Right now I would advise you to stay with the SD ones, but not be afraid to experience with a HD choice if it appealing and see what happening during encoding.
e. In all this, you did not say what the duration is of this 481 MB VOB file. The standard DVD disc is spec'd at 4.7 GB/120 min. That 4.7 GB in reality is 4.3 GB. You will frequently see the recommendation "for best results, do not exceed 90 minutes on this standard type disc". When you have your DVD disc in the DVD burner tray and are in the burn dialog of Publish+Share/Disc/DVD make sure to check the Quality Area of the burn dialog for the Space Required and Bitrate reading (8.00 Mbps is the max reading).
Based on what you wrote, I suspect that most of your problems were related to incorrect project settings. By the way, if you want to get rid of a menu button text, most of the time double click the text to bring up the Change Text dialog, highlight the text there, hit the delete key of the computer, then hit the space bar or enter key.
If you are replacing the menu's audio, max 30 sec with looping. If you use motion buttons in the menu, max 4.9 seconds. After you get the details of the project setup OK, we can focus in more on the menus...number of Timeline markers etc, and customization of the menus from within the program.
Lots of details. The answers and successes will be in the details. All the contributors here have given you a lot of ideas for exploration and experimentation.
Please do not hesitate to ask if you need clarification on anything that I have written.
Looking forward to learning of your progress.
Thanks.
ATR

Capture card for HDV

Can anyone tell me if I have somekind of advantage from a capture card when working in HDV like realtime effects or even better direct output to tape without the time consuming conforming of the HDV material.
Core

I'm thinking about getting the Intensity Pro, and I have a Canon HV20, but I have a few questions for you.
Do the intermediate codecs look better when going from HDV to Apple Pro Res for instance?
If you have an HV20, do you know if capture is smoother? By that I mean does it find timecode more easily (when I batch capture, it's a struggle because FCP can't find the timecode half the time, and I have to keep telling it to retry).
How does the computer control the deck/camera? I didn't know you could control something over HDMI.
With the HV20, it records in 24p but really 60i where you have to take out the interlaced frames to make it a 24p image. If the HDV is captured as Pro Res, is it possible to still use Cinema Tools to remove the interlaced frames?
I have a ton more questions, but that's good enough for now
Thanks so much!

Goin' Kinda Nuts. HDV Exporting Square not Widescreen?!

Ok, so I have an HV20 Canon, and I import the footage in 1080i60. When I play the captured footage in quicktime, it plays in a nice big wide box in 1920x1080.
Then I have to do a whole process where I make the HDV footage into AIC footage so I can take the interlaced frames out so I can make a true 24p image. (It's an HV20 thing). Anyway, once I convert the footage to AIC and then take the interlaced frames out, I play the footage in Quicktime and AGAIN I get a nice big wide box playing the footage in 1920x1080.
Before I go on, I know HDV's resolution is 1440x1080, but Quicktime still plays it in its full look if you will.
Now I edit the footage in Final Cut Pro, and I export using an HDV setting but using 24 frames a second, and I get a stupid square box in Quicktime!!! What is going on? What do I need to do to export it correctly so it'll display as 1920x1080!
Every other step displays just fine. I'm getting frustrated. I've tried all sorts of settings from matching my sequence settings to matching prior settings to the captured footage and nothing.
Any help would be awesome!

Conform Aperture only affects how movies play within QuickTime Player - the setting has no relevance to any of the FCS apps as best as I can tell - so as long as DVDSP (or whatever app you're using) can 'see' your HDV file as having a 16:9 ratio (meaning that it understands that the codec is anamorphic), you should be good to go.
Or where you going to make a DVD data disc to simply share the QT movie with someone?
As far as setting the Confrom Aperture Property by default, I'm afraid that no FCS app (in my experience) writes to that property. Only when capturing from tape (a QuickTime function, actually) does that get set. (I haven't been able to test the Log & Capture function to see if that sets it, though.)
Edit: I'm not sure why selecting Clean made it pixelated though, so that's weird. Maybe it's an HDV thing?

Quick Notation Question - Data Rates/Frame Rates/Interlacing

Finally upgraded to a decent prosumer camera and I'm trying to decipher what the manual is telling me about the many different formats it shoots and and the associated options. I keep seeing things like "There are two basic shooting modes: 720p and 1080i/p.", which I'm finding confusing. In my understanding, the "p" in 720p means progressive video and the "i" in 1080i means interlaced. So what do I make of 1080i/p?
On top of this, my camera shoots in "native" mode, which drops duplicate frames used in "over 60" formats. This will give me variations in the notation like:
720/24pN
720p Native 60 fps
1080i/24p
1080/24PN
Can someone give me a quick primer about frame rate vs data rate and explain how to read these notations? I'd appreciate it quite a bit.
Thanks!

There are so many cameras, capable of so many different formats that providing a manufacturer and model could be helpful in this discussion.
Jim's answer is absolutely correct but I'm going to re-state for clarification.
The i/p designation means you can chose to record as interlaced or progressive for a given resolution.
It sounds like your camera is designed to "capture" images at 60 frames per second, selecting "native" mode means extra frames are deleted and only the desired frames, based on frame rate setting, are recorded to memory. The advantage of "native" @ 24fps is you save space on your memory card. The advantage of NOT using "native" mode is that all 60 frames per second are recorded, but the file metedata tells playback software to only show the frames needed for the specified frame rate (i.e. 24). Since all 60 frames per second are recorded, you use more memory but you also have the option of retrieving all the those frames, if you so desire, at a later time (i.e. for smoother slo-mo).
To be honest I don't know what your spec of 1080i/24p means. If that is truly an option then I would guess it means it will record a 24p image but the metedata would indicate the file should playback at 30fps interlaced by adding the proper 3:2 pulldown. This would give you that "film" look in a broadcast compatible format.
For the most part, you don't want use use any interlaced settings. Very few display devices still in use can properly display interlaced images. Interlacing is only required in some broadcast specifications.
To answer the second part of your question;
Frame rates are an indication of how many times the moving image is captured over a given period (per second). Higher frame rates means smoother, more "real life" motion. Data rates can generally be considered an indication of image or audio quality. Higher levels of compression result in lower data rates and (generally) lower quality. If squeezing more hours of footage on fewer memory cards is more important than getting the best image quality, choose a lower data rate. Higher frame rates (more images per second) inherently require a higher data rate to retain the same quality as fewer frames at a lower data rate.

IBook G4 14" Display Problem

My daughter's iBook G4 14" 2004 1.07 GHz. screen broke when she dropped it. I bought a replacement and installed it. The screen seems to be OK, however, almost immediately after startup I get horizontal lines, first grouped at the bottom of the screen then expanding to the top. While the screen is perfectly legible, there is a constant jitter and the image is distorted.
If I connect the laptop to my G4 screen, I get a perfect picture on the monitor.
I don't know enough about the theory of operation to troubleshoot. I understand that the low voltage data cable maybe at fault.
I would appreciate if anyone could clarify this for me. I could replace the cable from the broken LCD display module which was working fine, but I am reluctant to undertake this task unless I am certain that the cable is at fault. Otherwise, I may ruin a perfectly good display module.
Thank you.

hello, this sounds like a similar problem i am having with my ibook g4. the screen is scrolling slightly on certain backgrounds. everything can be read still but its all pixalated. there is a green shimmering effect and also a pink shimmering effect. i am not used to macs so not sure what to do. to better explain whats going on, i would compare this to what a pc video card looks like without drivers installed for it.
i checked the display settings and its set to a million colors and a resolution od 1024x768.
what did u do to fix?

Images that zoom and move jitter after render.

I have a bunch of pictures that I put to music. Some move across the screen or zoom slowly. The images move smoothly until I render them, then it's like the images are on some bumpy path or something. They jitter or bump as they move.
I have de-interlaced the images, have changed the image formats, added max flicker filter, ensured that my render settings were at 100%, have redone the motion, have doubled the resolution of the image file (just in case the pixels were conflicting or having trouble at that resolution), and have adjusted settings in the individual item's properties.
My project was supposed to be delivered to the customer yesterday, but there's no way I'm going to deliver a jittery video. The problem is also equally noticeable on the DVD I produced . I have never had this problem in the past. Like I say, when the render bar is green, everything is smooth. After render, bumpy motion. All the motion (for the most part) is perfectly horizontal or vertical.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Message was edited by: Joey Delli Gatti

I had the exact same problem and was able to overcome it using a hack... this seems to be a bug in FCE.
I fixed it by rotating all my original images 90 degrees, replacing them in the timeline, rotating them back, then applying the zoom effects. They look perfect now. (Strange but true.)
Anyone with a better solution to this issue?

BLURRY images when I Modify speed in 29.97 timeline with 24p footage

I am modifying the speed of a clip - only to 90% - and parts of
the clip appear blurry after I render.
Any ideas why? What can I do?
Thank you in advance!

Is it 24p footage with 3:2 pulldown or, just 24p media?
Either way, you're in for a fun time.....
for 24p with 3:2 pulldown, first use Cinema Tools to remove the pulldown. Now, use Cinema Tools to conform it to 2.9.97fps. Now take it into your timeline and adjust the speed.
For 24p media, just conform it in Cinema Tools to 29.97fps, and then pu in your timeline and adjust the speed.
What you're doing is avoiding having FCP convert the 24p to 29.97fps by adding frames, before it gets to the speed change. Similarly, 24p with 3:2 pulldown must have it's pulldown removed before you can do a speed change.
This should make things nicer for you!
Graeme

How to capture HDV 24P footage without pull down

I´ve got some imagens with HVR-V1U in a HDV 24p mode thinking to transfer to film. Now I´d like to uploud the images in the same mode. In Premiere there is only HDV 30p and the option 24p only works for dv format. So, in the HDV 30p I receive the file in a Adobe with 6 more frames per second and it doesn´t work for cinema. Is there any way to edit a project in Premire in HDV 24p mode, and in this case how to get the file from the camera.
thanks.

Hi(Bonjour)!
Final Cut Express doesn't support HDV natively. It uses Apple Intermediate Codec upon capturing process to convert the HDV format.
Even if you can download your HDV from your PC to your Mac, you haven't the HDV native quicktime component to open the material for conversion to AIC purpose.
Final Cut Pro allows to works with native HDV.
So why don't you use more tapes and keep archived source material. Mini DV are pretty cheap these days.
Michel Boissonneault

How do I make a custom brush image in a gradient color scheme in Photoshop Elements 12?

I want to make a custom brush image in a gradient color scheme. I know how to change the hue jitter, but I want to "paint" the image with a gradient between two colors. For example, I have an image of an octopus that I have used to create a custom brush. I want the top of the octopus to be hot pink and gradually fade into a deep orange at the end of the tentacles. Everything I've looked up just colors the background. Thanks in advance!

Try the following:
Open the octopus image
Open a Gradient Map Adjustment layer above this. There are several preset gradients, but in my version of the program I don't see one with pink to orange.
When you double click on the gradient bar in the Adjustments palette, this will open up the Gradient Editor, where you can tailor the gradient to your specifications with color and opacity stops. (see below)
This will apply the gradient to the entire picture. However, the adjustment layer has a built-in mask (the white rectangle).
Left click on this and paint with a black brush to hide the gradient outside of the octopus. If you go too far, you can correct with a white brush.
Now, as to the Gradient map adjustment layer, here is how to configure it:
http://retouchpro.com/tutorials/?m=show&opt=printable&id=132

Still Frames Exported from Final Cut Jitter in DVD Studio Pro

I'm on a Titanium Powerbook G4. I use Final Cut 3.0 and DVD Studio Pro 1.5. Within my film I have several 15 second clips that are each a compilation of a single frame repeated many times so as to get the look of a still picture on the screen. I exported my film as a F.C.P. movie and when I watch it in Quicktime everything appears fine (as it does when I play it from within F.C.P.). However, when I author the DVD with Studio Pro (tried it w/ iDVD also and received the same unwanted result)those clips "jitter" or shake back and forth so I get a blurry image instead of a still, clear image like in F.C.P.
I burn the DVD w/ the internal combo drive on my Powerbook. I have never had an issue w/ any DVD that I have editied, authored or burned on this computer or w/ these programs.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Ryan
Powerbook G4 Mac OS X (10.2.x) F.C.P. 3.0; DVD Studio Pro 1.5

Your answer is here:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=675876&tstart=0

Jitter in 24p images

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