Lens choices

Anyone have a good suggestion for a good Portrait and Zoom lens to go with my 7D?
Thanks

Not that do that style of photography but when I took my course (film days) the 85 mm & 135 mm's were recommended, so with a 1.6 crop I'd be thinking 50 & 85 mm lenses & fast to blur the background. There's a similar question here.
http://forums.usa.canon.com/t5/Lenses/best-portrait-lens/m-p/4115#U4115
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Similar Messages

Best camera choice for shooting basketball and football.

We are comparing the 7D, 60d and rebel T4i. We are novices but are willing to learn and realize we will need to invest in lenses. Any opinions would be appreciated.

Unless the basketball is played in VERY good light the 7D is the only option in that list. It has a far better AF system than the others when it comes to action. The 7D rivals earlier pro bodies designed & used to cover sports & fast paced action, and from using both I can verify it was up to the task most of the time. (I didn't get to use the newest firmware update before selling my 7D).
Lens choices will be highly influenced by the lighting, and faster lenses will rule in low light. Football is normally an outdoor sport so lens choice is a bit less demanding re a wide aperture.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Looking For the Right Lens

Hello, I am a casual photographer and really just learning this great hobby. I got into it trying to get good pictures of my daughters during their ballet performances. Each step I've taken has got me a little closer to getting good pictures of them but I'm quickly running out of time. My last step was to purchase a T4i. I mainly use the kit lens 18-55 for most of the shots of them and sometimes the 55-250 if I want to get close in. I generally crank up the ISO so I can use a faster shutter speed. I find that ISO 6400 with a shutter speed of 1/400 in general is giving me the best results but not anywhere near perfect. I've pinballed around looking at lenses and my head is swimming and frankly I don't know enough to make a great desicision. The current lens I'm looking at is the Canon EF 24-105 f/4 IS USM. The other two lenses I own both go to 5.6 and I was hoping the fixed f/4 would let in more light letting me reduce the ISO for a less grainy picture. Going back and looking at most of my shots I'm usually in the 30-50mm range but that can change depending on where I get to sit at each show so a zoom lens is mandatory for me. I really want to stay around $500 to $600 if at all possible and think I can get that lens at that price range.
My second use for the camera is to film my younger daughter singing at different school or social events with an occasional picture thrown in. Would the above lens work well for that? The current lens choices I have suck. They are noisy and hunt for focus. I've heard rave reviews of the kit lens 18-135 STM for it's fluidity of movement in almost comeplete silence. I got to play with the lens a few weeks ago at a party when someone asked me to take some pics with their camera. I marveled at the speed and silence of the focus motor. I believe the f stops on it are the exact same as my current lenses though. So If I get it as well I'm guessing I'd be in the same boat as above but with better video. If I do get this STM lens would I get the same quality pics as the kit lens I have now or is it a little better than my current set up? The person who's camera I borrowed loved it but they aren't a photographer by any means. Any recomendations here are appreciated as well.

OK let's give this s go.
If you are shooting a f5.6 at ISO 6400 and you decide to get an f4 lens, you will be able to shoot the same scene at ISO 3200. That lens is one stop faster. Not a big deal. But, on-the-other hand if you got a f2.8 lens you are talking another stop off. The ISO would now be 1600. Pretty good, I'd say.
Unfortunaltely an f2.8 lens isn't going to be cheap. Sigma has a 17-50mm f2.8 and even better a 18-35mm f1.8. The f1.8 will allow you to drop more than another stop off your ISO to around 640. Generally speaking the lower the ISO, the less noise in the photo and the better it will look. But these are a little short of the mm (focal length) you say you need.
Any of these lenses, and the outstanding EF 24-105mm f4 will make way better pictures than your current kit lenses do. Tamron also has some choices in this area, too.
The ideal choice would be a 24-70mm f2.8 but they are going to be way more expensive. The Sigma being the cheapest in this bunch, again. The Canon EF 24-70 f2.8 L IS being the best lens there is, period, and a price tag to prove it.
The EF-S 18-135mm is a better lens than what you have but is not going to help the ISO problem. You need, one, more light on the subject or, two, a faster lens.
Another idea!
If you can live with a fixed focal lemgth, or prime, lens, you could get the EF 50mm f1.8 or better yet the EF 50mm f1.4.. Now were're taling. f1.4 is four stops faster and your ISO would drop to 400. Around $110 bucks and $350 respectively. Sound good?
There are some more prime lens choices for you. Get on the Canon web site and gaze at the primes and see if one or two might just fill the bill. The primes also have the advantage of being outstandingly sharp. Light years ahead of your kit lenses.
Sigma has some great primes, too.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

I need help with a Canon EF/EF-S Lens Purchase...

Hi all...
I don't know where else to post this question since this isn't really a Photography forum but rather a Lr4 forum. But I'm still very new to Digital SLR camera's and need some help.
I currently have a Canon T3 w/ the 18-55 Kit lens. I'd like to take photos of Landscapes, mountains and waterfalls, etc... But at the same time I need the ability to take photos up to or around 6" away from objects. All the different numbers on the lenses are confusing the heck out of me and I was wondering if there would be any advice anyone could give me on a good Canon lens or two which will get me where I want to be. I want to take close-ups and distant/wide shots. Lenses certainly aren't cheap so I want to make the right decision.
I just recently purchased a book by David Busch on the T3 and it's capabilities but I still have a way to go before I finish the book.
Can anyone offer some advice or insight into the importance of using the right lens or even a recommendation of a Canon lens?
Thanks!

The Canon 50mm F2.5 EF macro is a very old lens design from about 1987, but is also the sharpest 50mm lens that Canon makes with exception of the $1,500 50mm F1.2 L series lens. If needing to stay under $300 it is a good macro close-up lens choice. It actually provides .8x magnification on a 1.6 crop camera (1.6 x .5x), so you're not losing much close-up capability over the more expensive Canon 60mm macro lens' (1.0x). The 50/60mm lens focal length does "duplicate" what you already have with your 18-55mm lens, but the F2.5 versus F5.6 maximum aperture will allow you to shoot in much lower light levels and with very good image sharpness wide open (i.e. F2.5). Concerning your question on lenses suitable for "motion" I have no idea where you read that and what they meant. IS (image stabilization) lenses are designed to allow you to "handhold" at lower shutter speeds without blurring the image, but will not necessarily help with subject motion. For moving subjects you should turn off IS and use the fastest possible shutter speed (high ISO setting and wide aperture). IS for macro photography is generally not too helpful and only the new Canon 100mm F2.8L IS macro has it.
All things considered you may be better served by first purchasing a telephoto zoom, which will allow you to truly "zoom" in on subjects.......not just make tiny subjects bigger. As I already suggested you can do the latter by "cropping your 12mp T3 close-up images in LR. Up to 2X crop should still allow sufficient image quality for enlargements and will give you .68x magnification with your 18-55mm at 55mm (2 x .34x at closest focus).
Prodigy9 wrote:
Also, I found these two lenses and I'm looking for an opinion...
The EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 & the EF 75-300 f/4.0-5.6
Would either of these lenses benefit me?
These are both low-cost Canon telephoto zooms, with the EF-S 55-250mm being the better choice for your T3. To clear up any confusion the 'EF' (Electronic Focus) lens mount was introduced by Canon in 1987 for film cameras, followed in 2003 with the EF-S lens mount designed specifically for the new 1.6 crop factor APS-C sensor DSLR bodies. The 'S' stands for "Short Back Focus" of the Canon APS-C sensor camera body, which allows the rear lens elements to extend further into the mirror chamber. This is why EF-S lenses can ONLY be used with crop-sensor bodies, but the EF lenses can be used on both crop-sensor and full-frame sensor bodies. This also means EF-S lenses are less expensive to design, since they image on a smaller sensor area. Here's a good website for reviews and test report information on Canon, Nikon, Sigma, and other lenses:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/
..and a great tool for comparing performance of two different lens:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Comparison-Tools.aspx
To give you an idea of what differences to expect in lens performance, take a look at the entry-level Canon 55-250mm F4-5.6 IS (~$240) compared to the L series Canon 70-200mm F4 IS lens (~$1,250):
Digital SLR and Lens Image Quality Comparison
(Place your cursor over the little white arrow to review the two images. You can also change the Fstop to see improvement from "stopping down" the lens.)
Keep in mind these are 100% image crops. If you were to compare 8" x 12" photo enlargements taken with both of these lenses on your T3 the differences would be much more subtle! I hope this helps to clear up some of your questions. The web has a wealth of free video tutorials and other educational material that are very helpful for both beginners and pros.

LR 3.3 Rc - lens extentions?

I'm running LR 3.3 RC on a Windows 7 system. When I lookup the lens extentions I find a limited number of selections. I have seen that the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 lens is supported by LR but that lens choice is not available.
I also have the Nikon "kit" lens: 18-105 mm yet I also don't see this as a lens choice.
Tamron has said that tey will provide lens corrections for LR. I have the Tamrom SP 70-300 mm Di VC USD lens with Nikon mount.where and when will I be able to access the lens correction for this lens?

Thank you for this link. It is helpful, BUT once I save a lens profile for the Nikon D90 and with the 18-105mm how do I access these saved profiles (both raw + jpg) in Lightroom?
I feel that Adobe could have done a much better job integrating this application into LR, just like they did with establishing links to Smugmug; Flicker, etc.
There are additional profiles that Adobe claims are available with LR 3.3rc that do not show up as choices in LR.
Is this lens profiler software just a pre-beta and not ready for public use? It's a great idea, I'm just have a real difficult time understanding what I need to do to use it. :>(
PS I have LR loaded on my Win7 laptop and my iMac and it isn't working for me on either platform.

Lenses for CAnon EOS 50D

Hi
I have recently retired and hope to purchase a Canon Eos 50D shortly.
As a new comer to digital photography I would like advise on lenses to buy please,
as I am totally confused by the array of different lenses on offer.
I need : ,

Fixed Focal Length Lenses
Long-Range-Zoom-Camera-Lenses
Wide angle lense
All assistance appreciated.
I feel you should refer to the range available in Best buy
Thank you in advance
Liam

Are you planning on buying a 50D kit or just the body? Maybe start out with the 50D kit with the 28-135 and buy a 70-300 also. This should give you a good range to start until you find what kind of photography you enjoy. Canon has a good wide angle in the 10-22mm. Its not too expensive ($850 I think).
Lens choices depends on what you are planning to shoot. For example when I shoot weddings (I use Nikon BTW so the lens sizes are Nikon sizes) I use a 14-24 F/2.8 for the formals mainly, 28-70 F/2.8 and a 70-200 F2.8. Alot of times I have to deal with low lighting and some churches actually wont let me use a flash inside the chapel. For motorsports and airshows, I'll bring the 12-24 F/4 (for ground displays at airshows), 70-200 F/2.8, 300mm F/2.8 (for motorsports), 500mm F/4 or the 600mm F/4 for airshows (mostly the 600 goes, but the 500 is fine for the local one since we're closer to the flight box). Senior & family portraits 85mm F/1.4 for seated shots and the 28-70 for the outdoor/hobby shots.
King of the World...

New Factory Update available for the EOS-1D C Cinema EOS Camera

Incorporating feedback from professional users, Firmware Version 1.3.4 adds lens aberration correction data for Canon EF-mount Cinema lenses and Audio Recording updates. Please read our announcement to learn more about the Feature Upgrade.

I don't have any firsthand experiences with those cameras, but just wanted to say CONGRATS! What a win!
To help you pick, though, it might help us to know what kind of stuff you shoot and what types of features are your priorities in a camera? (e.g. run-and-gun vs tripod-ed and carefully blocked out; lens choices, audio on-board vs not; low-light/night)
Edit: Also, if you have a C100-specific question, the Cinema EOS forum is a bit of a ghost-town and could use some "livening up". =) http://forums.usa.canon.com/t5/Cinema-EOS-Discussions/bd-p/cinemaeosboard

Frame Grabs - 48 Hour Film Comp entry

If interested..check out a few frame grabs from our 48 Hour Film Making Competition entry.
I have already posted how significant having Adobe ( CS5.5 suite) was in being an enabler for this project.
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?250590-Frame-Grabs-48-Hr-Film-AF102
Realtime editing and FX ( C.C /grade) makes a difference in a 48 hour event with absolutely strict deadlines.
Craig
a taste of horror...(our genre)

shooternz,
Wow ! Those shots are beautiful ! I looked at them ( dvxuser site ) a bunch of times, picking them apart ...and love them !
Your DP did a great job ( framing, lens choices, bounces ( fill ), color ( gels on lights for night stuff or is that all CC post ? ).... and also got a lot out of the camera nicely ....both in low light (night , her in bed) and hot situations (day, priest and boyfriend? )... really nice. I want to see MORE... LOL....
Didn't that guy in the hat, plaid shirt, chainsaw guy ...do a commercial with you before ??
Looks like you got a lot out of the talent...were you happy with getting your story told ??
Are you now "crashing" after that rush of adrenaline ??
Thanks for posting those shots and if you post more let us know... want to see more. Odd...those single frames are better than lots of production stills I've seen through the years.. amazing ! If it weren't for the fact (in digital) that motion stuff is going to the editor every day while the still guy on set is sending his stuff direct to the network or distributer for advertising --- the still guy could kiss his job goodbye with the quality of the stills from the motion.
When you get this done I'd like to buy a copy if you make any DVD's ( dont have blue ray or HD stuff here )....

EOS 1D C or a C100?

Ok so I'm a long time canon fan, I've been shooting on a 7D for a few years and really enjoy it. The thing is I recently won a competition where they have offered me either a brand new 1D C or a C100, and having never used either camera, I was keen to get an objective opinion on which is the better option.

I don't have any firsthand experiences with those cameras, but just wanted to say CONGRATS! What a win!
To help you pick, though, it might help us to know what kind of stuff you shoot and what types of features are your priorities in a camera? (e.g. run-and-gun vs tripod-ed and carefully blocked out; lens choices, audio on-board vs not; low-light/night)
Edit: Also, if you have a C100-specific question, the Cinema EOS forum is a bit of a ghost-town and could use some "livening up". =) http://forums.usa.canon.com/t5/Cinema-EOS-Discussions/bd-p/cinemaeosboard

Non triax sony camera to match ESPN sports camera footage

Trying to mimic a shot from a televised baseball game, which camera will have a similar look to the cameras used but that dont require a deck. I'm guessing 3ccd 60i 1920x1080? goes to an SR tape maybe?
any advice is welcome, including lens choice?

They are in the same codec. The only difference between these formats is that one is progressive and the other is interlaced. Both are XDCAM, both are 1080, both run at 29.97fps. NO conversion is necessary.
They should multiclip. Do they not?
Shane

Canon 1D C 4K LOG import

Hi,
I'm importing a sample clip into Premiere and although plays 4K on my desktop, it's not quite so when importing into Premiere. I've tried dragging and also using Media Browser. The file is showing 1680x887. It plays fine on my timeline. Is there another way to import this? Transcode first?
Thanks,
Alex

Hello DickEX,
The EOS-1D C is a great choice for the type of cinematography / photography you seem to be doing. Well versed in both recording high quality 4K footage as well as still image capability, it's quite the versatile little workhorse. Coupled with either an EF Cinema prime or zoom lens and you've got an outstanding rig capable of handling about anything you'd throw at it.
As far as the lens choices are concerned, the best for versatility would be the CN-E 15.5-47mm T/2.8 L S [note, not SP which is PL mount]. You'll have a wide range with this lens to work with. If you are in the market for an ultra wide angle, and you think you won't be needing the zoom ability, then the CN-E 14mm T/3.1 L F would be a fine choice as well.
With the EOS-1D C, you'd be able to use both Canon Cinema lenses as well as normal, EF series lenses. So the range of lens options from which to choose from is quite large.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Canon Rebel?

I am new to photography and I have been using a Kodak 7530 5meg. camera with my Elements 3. I would like to move up to a better camera and I have decided on the Canon Rebel 8 Meg. My question is this: I can buy this camera "bundled" with the 17- 85 lens. Is that lens choice a good choice for portraits and all-around photography? Should I buy with the standard 18-55 and buy an additional zoom lens? What about the Sandisc Extreme III 1Gig. card? I see a 75-300 Canon lens but the reviews report this lens as cheap and will distort. Thanks Bill

Bill....
I have what you describe but with the Original 300D(Rebel). The standard 17-85 is a very good lens and serves me well. I find it sharp but the smallest apperture is a bit slow at times, causing me to bump up the ISO setting.
I also have the USM III 75-300. This is pretty good to. No distortion but at wide apertures the image is a little soft.
Remember in both cases the sensor being smaller than a std 35mm film gives an apperant magnification factor of about 1.6 on these focal lengths.
As for memory cards my own preference is for a few smaller ones than one big one......egg's and baskets etc.
As for batteries, follow Tom's advice and get spare batteries. I bought Hahnel which is a lot cheaper than the Canon and just as good.
In all I think you'll be happy with your choices. The only thing on my shopping list at the moment is to swap out the 75-300 for something a little faster and with Image Stabilisation.
(Actually I'd like the EOS 5D but my wife says, no chance :-( )
Colin

Have been using good ole cannons from 70 h 80's for years.Need to update and understand new technolo

Have been using the cannons for many years mostly scenic areas. Quit using them eight years past.
I am retired and need to update and understand what you have so l can start over.Thanks for your help, Edgar.

Hi Edgar,
While there are occasional Canon tech wizards on here to help out, mostly it's conversations among Canon users.
You are basically wanting to go from film to digital, which can be both easy and very, very complex. Some of the modern DSLRs can be used in a highly automated, almost "point n shoot" manner. Or you can get as involved in using them as you wish, using less of the automation, usually with more consistent and pleasing results... but a much steeper learning curve.
If your Canon are from the 70s and 80s, they are manual focus lenses and cameras with the FD mount. Some of those were fantastic, but simply aren't usable on modern Canon, which use EF mount. So you are most likely starting from scratch.
I'd recommend one of the more entry-level models, perhaps with one or two kit lenses to get started learning to shoot digital. But it sort of depends upon your budget, how much you want to spend. I don't know where you are in the world... I'm in the US so below I'm refering to the current US model designations Canon offers (and international designations are in parens). All these models are "EOS".
The Canon Rebel T3 (1100D) is the most entry level model. If bought in kit, it usually comes with EF 18-55mm lens.
Rebel SL1 (100D) is a very compact camera, in kit usually comes with 18-55mm lens.
Rebel T3i (600D) is a bit larger and adds some features... in kit it's often offered with 18-55mm, or sometimes with 18-135mm, or sometimes in a 2-lens kit with 18-55mm and 55-250mm.
Rebel T5i (700D) is the top of the Rebel series line and mostly adds features related to videography. It can be found in kit with the same options as the T3i.
EOS 60D is a mid-grade model, using a true pentaprism (the Rebel series use a penta-mirror). With higher top shutter speed (1/8000 vs 1/4000 on the Rebels), somewhat different controls (more direct access to things commonly used by more advanced photographers). The 60D is being discontinued right now, but you will still see a lot of them in stores.
All the above have essentially the same "APS-C size" 18MP sensor (except T3/1100D which uses a 15MP sensor). T5i and 60D have a similar, more advanced autofocus system.
EOS 70D is the new model that's replacing the 60D, has a new 20MP sensor, as well as a more sophisticated autofocus system than any of the above.
60D and 70D in kit usually come with 18-135mm lens, but sometimes there are alternatives.
The EOS 7D is the top of the line APS-C size sensor, a fairly pro-oriented camera with less support for new digital shooters, a sophisticated and fast autofocus system. .
Finally there are also and so-called "full frame models EOS 6D, 5D Mark III and 1DX (sensor is 24x36mm, same image size as most 35mm film cameras shoot). The 6D is essentially an entry-level, more compact full frame model. 5D Mark III is a mid-grade model, and the 1DX is an uber expensive pro-oriented, high speed model. You might be tempted by these initially, coming from film cameras. But be aware they not only cost more initially, are a bit more limited in lens choices, plus the lenses for them will generally tend to be larger, heavier and more expensive. The APS-C or "crop sensor" models can use all EF and all EF-S lenses. While the "full frame" models can only use EF lenses. EF-S lenses are specifically designed for crop sensor cameras. EF lenses were designed for film or have been designed for full frame, but are also fully usable on crop cameras. So, crop cameras can essentially use any lens Canon has made since around 1990 and onward.
I'd recommend you start with one of the crop sensor models.... graduate later to one of the full frame models, if you find that necessary. Today's crop sensor cameras are actually quite capable. You can make a pretty large print from them, with little loss of image quality. You'll just have to "re-think" focal lengths, from what you are accustomed to. For example, a 50mm lens on a crop sensor camera is no longer a "standard" lens. It acts more as a short telephoto, like an 80mm would on your film cameras (nice for portraits). If you want a standard lens on a crop sensor camera, you'll want something around 30mm. The 18-55mm kit lenses, for example, cover approx. the same angle of view range as a 28-90mm zoom would on your film cameras.
Now, seeing that you are an experienced SLR user, you probably don't need the automation and newbie support of some of the most entry-level models. But also going from manual focus to autofocus (which, when used right is faster and more accurate than I ever was with manual focus, and I was pretty good!)... I'd suggest starting out with one of the simpler AF systems.
The T5i or 60D might be good choices for you. Go compare in a store, if at all possible.
Just as was true in the days of film, lenses still tend to make more of a difference than the camera they are used upon. In other words, the entry level kit lenses might be a low cost way to get into modern, autofocus, digital cameras... but if you're budget allows you might want to consider some more advanced lenses. In the kit lenses, I would recommend the "STM" (stepper motor autofocus drive) models... they are the latest and greatest. But there are even better, in particular the USM (ultrasonic motor autofocus drive) which are often found in otherwise upgraded lenses. For example, for crop cameras there are the EF-S 10-22mm, EF-S 15-85mm USM, EF-S 17-55/2.8 USM and EF 70-200/4L USM lenses. These are fast and accurate focusing, with top quality optics. Most of these lenses also have or are optionally available with Image Stabilization (IS), which is great and allows handheld shots that were near impossible with your older gear. Highly recommended.
Shop around and don't forget to allow some room in your budget for other necessities. You'll need memory cards (the entry level models and T5i, 60D that I recommended all use "SD/SDHC" memory cards). You also might want a spare camera battery (most entry level models use LP-E8, the 60D uses the larger LP-E6 to get about twice as many shots per charge). There are also accessory battery grips available for most models mentioned, which give secondary controls that are nice when shooting with the camera in portrait orientation, as well as adding a second battery to double the number of shots you can take. Most of the lenses mentioned don't include the lens hood, which I highly recommend buying, too.
All these Canon cameras come with a complete software suite, all you really need to get started cataloging and editing your images on your computer (some other manufacturers sell certain softwares separately). However you still might want to look into some third party softwares. Adobe Elements is an excellent and affordable introduction to Photoshop, which is arguably the "big daddy" of all image editing softwares. There are others... some cheaper, even some free... and you don't really need to rush into adding softwares unless you simply want to. The included Canon software is fine to get started.
I guarantee you will find yourself shooting a lot more digital images, than you ever did with film. For one, after the initial cost of the camera, lenses and basic gear, you will feel like "shooting digital is free!". It's not really (camera and memory wear out eventually, upgrades come along, and digital storage & backup fill up rather quickly). But it's certainly cheaper than shooting film. Last time I shot a lot of film I figured it cost a minimum of 50 to 75 cents per shot (common 35mm film with local, consumer grade processing, 4x6 prints or contact sheets... $15 to $20 per 36 exposure film). Digital reduces that to around 5 cents per shot, on average.
You'll also love high ISO shooting with your new DSLR. Any of the above cameras can be used at ISO 1600 with much better results than any film at that rating. With a little extra work, ISO 3200 and 6400 are quite usable... perhaps even higher! I rarely use lower than ISO 200 now, where with film the bulk of my work was at ISO 50 and 100.
You also will enjoy the immediate feedback you get being able to review your images on the spot, right on the LCD screen on the back of the camera. The histogram, in particular, is very helpful once you learn to use it. Heck, you can even shoot tethered to a computer and see your images full size on a computer monitor immediately, if you wish... Or download them and view them just minutes after pressing the shutter release button!
Get some books about digital photography. In addition to something more general, I also highly recommend getting one of the guide books specific to whatever camera model you choose. That will complement the manual that comes with the camera. If you get an image editing/cataloging software, I'd recommend a book specifically for that, too. Another book I recommend is "The DAM Book - Digital Asset Management for Photographers"... which can be found and bought online. It's very helpful setting up your "workflow", and the sooner you do that, the better (it's the pits having to go back, reorganize and potentially redo thousands or hundreds of thousands of images).
There are also good online tutorials about many aspects of digital photography. For example, I highly recommend the three half-hour videos on YouTube about Canon autofocus systems and how to get the best results with them... beginning with this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAx86nblZ2g This is a few years old now, but still quite relevant... the 50D is discussed at length, but it uses an AF system that's virtually identical to the 60D, for example. It also might help to know some of the features of the more recent, more spphisticated AF systems, which are discussed a bit. There are other videos and online tutorials at the Canon Learning Center, on YouTube, and elsewhere. Some are model specific... such as the AF system of the 7D (which is largely carried over into the 70D now).... and the even more advanced 5D Mark III/1DX AF system.
Other users here and at other forums online can be a big help, too. Don't be afraid to ask questions (we've all been there at one time or another).
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

More 4K Digital Cinema Cameras

"Canon is also developing two digital cinematography cameras. The cameras employ a 12-bit RGB 4:4:4 signal format during 2K output."
Not that's a pretty nice recording option.
http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/News/Details.aspx?NewsId=32957

Using Macdrive is no biggy Jim
I use it on my PCs because I use SSDs in my Atomos Samurai and BM Hyperdeck (external recorders).
Actually it is very convenient to have in the toolbox.
BTW - I believe the BM camera has a sensor that is approx 61% of a 4/3 sensor. Maybe a great compromise for events, weddings etc buit still providing some reasonable DOF over 2/3 chips.
I can almost guarantee the issue with the BM camera will be in the area of available lens choices. PL mount lenses...no problem of course.

When I attempt to apply a lens profile in the Develop module the only choices are for the Fujifilm X100/S/T even though in the Library module the EXIF data correctly shows the camera as the X-T1 and the precise lens used to take the picture. How do I get

When I attempt to apply a lens profile in the Develop module the only choices are for the Fujifilm X100/S/T even though in the Library module the EXIF data correctly shows the camera as the X-T1 and the precise lens used to take the picture. How do I get the right profile available?

First, the required profile needs to be present. LR 5.4 supports the X-T1 in terms of understanding its Raw format, but will not come with a profile for every lens which can be mounted onto that.
A profile is made for each specific lens, as mounted on a certain camera. It can also be used with pictures taken on a different (reasonably similar) camera body than the one originally used during profiling. This is subject to the sensor format: you can employ a given lens profile made for full frame, on an image from a crop sensor behind the same lens - but not vice versa.
Next, the image type needs to correspond to the image type which has been built into the profile: Raw, or non-Raw.
Lightroom offers only profiles of the right type for the image(s) concerned. There are many more provided for correcting camera Raw, than for correcting camera JPG. That is also the case with additional profiles, e.g. those accessed via the Adobe lens profile downloader utility.
Finally, in the event that there simply is no profile out there for a given lens, it is not particularly difficult (though a little tedious) for the end user to generate one, using a further Adobe utility which is downloadable as a package, including a range of checkerboard calibration targets, each of which needs to be printed at a stated physical size.

Lens choices

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