Sawtooth Quieting Project: Fan Replacement - Specs on 120 mm case fan?

So I thought I'd look into potentially cutting down the noise from my Sawtooth by replacing the 120 mm case fan. So, I have three (hopefully short) questions on my mind about this:
a) What are the specs on the original 120 mm case fan? All I can see is that it's manufactured by NMB.
b) Would I have to do anything special to get a replacement fan to work? (i.e. getting around non-standard power connectors, etc.)
c) If anyone's tried this before, are there any recommended fans out there I should look into?
Thanks in advance.

That's something I ran into, too. You see recommendations for certain types of really good fans but you cant find them in local stores.
This is what I did to quiet down my noisy Mac(after this thing was running for about half an hour it was just intolerable to be in the same room with).
I replaced the fan in the power supply.This is about the most difficult thing to do but the noise reduction was immense.This is a 80x80x25 mm fan and I put in a Thermaltake I bought at a PC shop.CFM (37)is lower than what was in there but the air coming out is barely warm.
I replaced the case fan with a Coolermaster ( forget the model)that is much quieter too.Look for a 120 mm fan, take the old one with you to check the size/thickness.
Then I hooked the case fan and the CPU fan ( this is a Quicksilver) up to something to regulate the voltage.I'm using a Radio Shack/ The Source power adaptor that can output either 12v,9V,7.5V, etc with a little switch on the unit.
I also opened up one of the PCI slot cover to let a little more air in.
Instead of running the fans at their rated 12v,I use the adaptor to run them at 9v.The noise reduction is dramatic, the unit does not get hot inside ( when I was testing, I opened it up and touched the heatsink every half hour or so, not hot at all).And you can always flip it back to 12V to run the fans at full speed anytime you want.
This is works great for me, it might not work for everyone if you're not comfortable with working inside power supplies ( potentially dangerous, do some reading on this first)or messing with Apple's precious fans.But I'm talking a 2/3rds noise reduction here with less than $50 worth of parts!
I didnt replace the CPU fan ( yet) because the replacement I bought was actually noisier than the stock one.Smaller fans tend to produce the most annoying noise, the larger the fan ,less irritating the sound.Find a local PC store that sells parts and has a decent return policy.Anything 12V will work in a Mac regardless of which sizes you buy.
Decent fans have the specs clearly marked on the box.Dont get too hung up on CFM ratings.I've found that certain fans are quieter than other regardless of CFM and Noise claims and you just have to try them out in your Mac to find the one you can live with.Luckily , we're talking about cheap parts here and the biggest hassle is dealing with Apple's dinky fan connectors. I just cut them off and splice..red to red, black to black.
If I was running major heat sources like 2 Ghz CPU upgrades or 256 MB+ vid cards, I might think twice about under-volting the fans, but I'm not.This Mac is primarily for music production and recording and I need it to be quiet, otherwise it is useless to me.
Dont be afraid to get in there and replace/fiddle with those fans. The results can be dramatic and very pleasing to your ears.

Similar Messages

120 mm case fan questions

I know it's a Delta Sensflow WFC1212B, but I'm trying to find out whether it uses a 3 or 4 pin connector, also whether there's enough room in the duct to mount a 120x38 mm cooling fan in its place, since it's a 120x25 mm fan. I'm trying to upgrade EVERY component of the hardware that I can and still retain full compatibility. My goal with upgrading the case fan and PSU fan is to get equal or better airflow with less noise. Any info on this fan Re: connector type and such would be helpful.

The fan has a 2-conductor connector, so you should cut off the existing wires close to the old fan and splice them to the 12-volt leads from the new one (ignoring the thermal control lead, if present). Rather than going with a deeper/thicker fan, you can probably get more than adequate cooling (CFM) with less noise (dbA) than the Delta fan, if you check out the fans made by SilenX, like this 120x120x25mm fan. The disadvantage of using a deeper fan in this application is that it will reduce the clearance behind the fan, where the exhausted air is directed/deflected. You don't want to impede the efficiency of the fan, by having it mounted too close to the chassis wall. If it were mounted to the perforated opening on the rear wall of an ATX case, this wouldn't be an issue. In the B&W G3 case, it's mounted as close to a solid obstruction as you'd want it.

URGENT !! Where to connect Case FAN's

Hi there.
I just got a new Lian Li PC-v1000 Tower, equipped with 2 1200mm FAN's.
One has a standard 4 pin's power connector
One has a 3 pin power connector (With sensor).
My Motherboard (MSI-K7N2 Delta), is equipped with a CPU fan (used), and a "System Fan" (also used by the Noth/South bridge chipset) connectors.
My Power Sypply, an Antec true power 480W, is equipped with 2 standard 4 Pin's power connectror dedicated to FAN's.
I connected one of my two "tower" FAN's, but ...
where to connect the second 120 mm tower FAN ?!?
I have no place anymore on the motherboard, and this tower FAN is a 3 Pin(with sensor) connector, that I can't connect to my psu !!
Any idea ?
P.S. : My psu is also equipped with a 3-pin fan signal connector ... that should be connected to my motherboard ... but where ?!?
Thanks !

Quote
Originally posted by cdelecole
I just got a new Lian Li PC-v1000 Tower, equipped with 2 1200mm FAN's.
One has a standard 4 pin's power connector
One has a 3 pin power connector (With sensor).
i would not use those two 1200mm fans as the case might fly away
i dont recommend putting those case fans on the motherboard without checking how much power they use as its possible they will burn the motherboard.
go out and buy a fan connector adaptor which you then connect to an ordinary molex contact.
i have seen adapters that would work with those "fan only" connectors.
i use my case fan on the fan only and its enough for me however it may not be enough for everyone so keep an eye on your temps
about the psu contact.
you can change the heatsinkfan to a zalman nb47j (northbridge)
i read a review where that passive heatsink performed better than the active heatsink on a asus motherboard did.
that would free up one contact.
dont do it if you dont know what your doing.

Using NB fan connector for case fan?

Seeing as the only fan supplies that support fan control are the CPU and NB, if I'm using a Zalman cooler instead of a NB fan to cool the chipset, is it possible to utilise the spare NB fan connector for one of the case fans?
Or is that a silly idea because the speed of the fan will be dictated by the temperature of the NB chipset which may or may not enable sufficient case cooling?
Has anyone tried this?

In actual fact I have 7 x 80mm Cooler Master Fans in my system. 2 in the back, 2 in the front, 2 on the CPU (Hyper6) and 1 on the clear side door. All fans are the CoolerMaster Blue LED type and spin no faster than 2600RPMs. I never slow down the CPU fans ..... system is always on and always doing something stressfull but using Speedfan or CoreCenter I can slow both fans on the CPU down to 20%.
4 of the fans are powered through the mainboard (through PSU) and the other 3 using the PSU molex power connectors (not the FAN_ONLY connectors .... not enough juice ).

I replaced the case fan on my XPS 8700 and things are much quieter.

I added a new case fan to one of our 8700s.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ISKYPE
Pro's - it is quiet
Con's - the color scheme is ugly, but I'm the only one that looks inside my case so it doesn't bother me.
The system is noticeably quieter as this rear case fan is much quieter than the OEM case fan.
With an updated PSU and graphics card, the only sound after boot is is the CPU fan, and the occasional clunk from the HDD.
The aftermarket PSU (Seasonic x-650) fan doesn't spin until it gets hot -- which is never so it is silent.
The graphics card fans (MSI GTX 760 TF) are very quiet.
Now, on to a quieter CPU cooler if that is possible with the Dell MoBo.

You can also go here: http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/product.do?template=/onlineassistant/submitAQuestion.vm&s... and submit a service request and just complain through that route. Use the link NOT to service your lappy but to complain and make them do more work to contact you and send out a box and ship them back nothing, LOL - waste their shipping money.
Oh hey, maybe this is where you send the pile of dog poo.
Message Edited by lancelot916 on 08-28-2008 08:39 PM

Need Specs for HP m9150f replacement Case Fan

The case fan in the rear of my HP m9150f computer is getting noisy.I need the specifications of it in order to be able to purchase a replacement such as it;s size and connector.

Hi
Please find the link given below might help you.
http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?type=PROD&SearchText=KC880AA
Let us know how it goes!
"I work for HP."
****Click the (purple thumbs up icon in the lower right corner of a post) to say thanks****
****Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem****
Regards
Manjunath

Replace Case Fan

I'm thinking of replacing, if not just cleaning, the default case fan in my Power Mac G4 (Sawtooth). What's the rated fan speed of the factory fan, or at least the airflow?
Message was edited by: Thinking_Different

This is how I proceed:
1) Take out your original case fan and copy all the info off the label.
1A) lift one side of the label and put some WD-40 on the end of the shaft, then tape the label back on.
2) Google the original maker's part number \[the Sunon or whatever part number, not the Apple part number]. That should get you a specs page that show both the airflow in cfm and sound level in db.
You will probably also find the minimum order from the manufacturer is 10,000 parts.
3) Surf to a place that sells lots of fans and compare and contrast. I start here:
http://www.buyextras.com/120mmfans.html
look at the bearing type (for long life), the airflow, the sound level, and whether it is single-speed or adjusts the speed with a thermistor. If you find things you like, you can search other for fans with those parameters.
For talking numbers, the sound level in a typical large office is about 35 db, and the scale is logarithmic. \[That fan you linked above has great airflow, but at a whopping 45 db. That's LOUD!]
12 Volt fans have a red and a black wire for the input voltages. The yellow wire that sometimes is featured is an RPM output, which some computers can read to see how fast the fan is turning. You can safely ignore it.

Fan replacements/upgrade for MDD Power Mag G4-suggestions please!

First, I apologize for again bringing up what has been a frequently discussed topic. (ad nauseum?) I tried to do some homework first but I'd like a little help if anyone has some recent experience.
I am looking to change out the large main CPU heat sink fan and possibly the two power supply unit fans in my pair of MDD Power Mac G4s. The specs are Dual 1.25ghz (fw400) MDD G4. One has a 400watt actel PSU and another has a samsung 360watt PSU. Both large CPU case fans seem to be the original delta models installed by apple. Though essentially identical in specs, The 400 watt machine has the thick aluminum finned heat sink and the 360 watt machine has the aluminum heat sink with the thin sheets. The 400 watt machine is definitely louder, but I'm not using either of them for critical audio work, so its just a preference thing on having them run a bit quieter.
Both G4s are pretty loud. The noise bothers me a little, but what I really want to do is to replace what must be now pretty old delta fans with newer, quieter fans that will help extend the life of these 2nd hand computers that I plan to use for a number of years.
I scoured the web and read many articles about MDD mods and fan replacements, but many of the articles date back to 2003 and most of the fans that people have used seem to be no longer produced or available (such as the panaflow model referenced on xlr8yourmac.com I ran into many dead links! Maybe that's because there are better fan options now?
If anyone out there has replaced or upgraded their fans in a MDD recently, could you please reply and let me know...
Where you got them
What size and model number(s) for the fans
Whether you noticed any improvement in noise/cooling
I saw a recent post about replacing fans on an AGP Power Mac...
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=11628216#11628216
Would these fans be the same? I'm guessing that the MDD wind tunnel might need more cooling than a G4 (AGP) right? SOme places mentioned that the main fans were 119x119x25, while others mentioned that hey were 120x120x25. Is 1mm going to make a difference? I'd prefer not to have to dremel them if I don't need to!
Lastly, if you have a direct link to a reasonably priced fan that you'd recommend, I'd appreciate it greatly!
Thanks for any help!
Dave C

Thanks Japamac!
Thanks for your replies! Those look very good! So many to choose...
Exactly the info I was looking for. I was checking out the panaflow (I was a bit overwhelmed by the number of choices on the 'Performance-pcs' website... if you were buying, which one of those 34 would you get? Assuming a budget of 20 bucks per 120mm fan...)
But a followup question on the Panaflo model you linked to. In the many web articles I read I recall that one being well regarded. ,IF I buy that one, I have a few choices on tail options...
3 pin
4 pin
4 pin male molex with separate 3 pin rpm connector
Am I correct that if I opt for the last option I can get the fan to run at a medium rpm all the time and have it be less likely to ramp up under heavy loads?
Lastly, will this possibly be a problem I might have, simiar to what was noted by a xlr8yourmac fan modder -->
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/g4mirrored_drive_doors/noise_reduction/g4_ddr_noisereduction.html
"(Updated comments added 7/9/2009)
I have an important update to that G4 fan mod note I gave you.
I noticed that the 120mm fan wasn't pushing as much air as I thought it should, and I realized it was because the 2-pin fan connector on the motherboard wasn't providing enough power. +(3 pin connectors typically are for adjustable/variable speeds. But if it's a constant speed fan then maybe the 2 pin wiring was using only 5V vs 12V? (higher voltage = higher rpm fan speed typically)-Mike)+ I put the 3-pin connector back on and used a 3 to 4 pin Molex adapter adapter to connect it to the 4-pin hard drive power cables -- voila! Lots more air. So... Following the directions in the older article exactly may NOT work depending on the fan you get. Also, using a 3 to 4 pin adapter is much easier than modifying the connector from 3 to 2 pins as indicated in the article."
This was confusing because I thought that there was just a 3 wire lead to connect or splice, with the yellow wire probably just not being used.
Your thoughts?
Dave C

Can anyone recommend me a Northbridge fan replacement?

I have a MSI K8N Neo4-F nForce4 and recently i have been experiencing random crashes and lock ups which i think are due to the northbridge fan failing (it was making horrible noises).
I tried to replace this with the Asaka heatsink/fan combination thing but it didn't fit under the graphics card as there is only about 1.5cm vertical space available. Can anyone recommend a replacement suitable for this motherboard? Preferably a cheap one. =)
Also -i don't know much about chipset- is it safe to run the computer without a northbridge fan installed assuming i don't do anything intensive like games or whatever?
Thanks in advance.

I was sniffing around some other forums,(as you do), when I came across this post. It sounds intresting, and may be worth giving it a try.
Quote
"Repair your noisy cpu and system fans
This is a fix that will last for a long, long time.
Buy some graphite powder and some oil at an auto or hardware store. They come in different packages. For oil, the best is the pen-type as they are easy to handle and only give a small amount at a time. Just about any oil in a pen format will work fine. The graphite powder comes in small plastic tubes. But make sure you get graphite powder, not graphite oil, its too thin for this job! So you need graphite powder in a small tube and oil in a round "pen" that can be squeezed out and placed just where you need it. Also, when the oil is used up in the "pen" you can open it and add your own oil.
First, clean the fan blades off real well. If you have a heatsink with the fan then clean the heatsink off as well. You can even use a bit of your oil and some q-tips for cleaning if needed. Then, take the small circle, it usually has a name on it, but its in the middle of the fan. Peel one edge up carefully and put a very small amount of oil in where you lifted the label up. Now add some graphite powder in the same place where you put the oil, add as much or a bit more of the graphite powder than the oil. Clean off excess oil and graphite and push the label back where it was. You may need a very small amount of duct tape to hold the label in position and to prevent leakage. This is important if the fan is going to "sit up" as opposed to lying flat.
Now put the fan back where you want it and when it starts spinning it may be noisy for a few seconds until the graphite\oil works its way in. Then it will stop and it will stay stopped for many years and you may very well not need to buy a new fan after all!
I experimented a lot with this and this is the very best way to quiet all those fans and have them work well. I have always been a big fan of those removable ide hard drive trays that you can buy. But the fans are the pits, they get noisy real fast. So i had to find a way to fix them as they are very expensive and hard to replace. Now i don't have to. Combo of oil and graphite is the very best, by far. One caution, graphite stains worse than
oil, so be careful! I'm talking about staining your clothes and hands.
You can use this system with all CPU fans, video card fans, system fans, and even fans inside power supplies. But one word of caution, its easy to open a power supply and take out the fan, but do be careful as there are voltages there can can hurt you badly. If you don't know what you are doing then wear rubber gloves to get the fan out and to put the fan back in after the
repair!
Trust me, this will work. If the fan spins my method will work for years and I have even fixed fans that were stuck and wouldn't spin! This is better done with the fan on the table but in those cases where you cant or don't want
to take the fan out of the system, that's where the "pen" with the needle comes in again, but i still find a way to get some graphite in as well, graphite is what makes the oil last a long time! And graphite is also an oil, but you need both together for maximum effectiveness. Oil by itself will only last a few weeks or so and then evaporate, and the fan will get noisy again. Its the graphite powder that does the long term job. The oil really only helps to spread the graphite powder around really well so the graphite can do the job!
Hope you do as well as i have with this info!"
End Quote.
Edit - Additional Info
The type of northbridge fan used on some MSI boards, eg K8N Platinum & Diamond etc, require that you remove the fan from the board first (you will have to remove the motherboard to do this). This is because the top of the shroud is attached from the bottom by two tiny Phillips type screws. Once you have removed the shroud, very gently prise off the fan from the motor assembly. There is no need to try and remove the three other tiny screws that secure the fan motor in place to the bottom half of the shroud. Once removed, you will see that under the fan is a small plastic pin that holds the sleeve bearing in place.
Russell.

Idle Fan speed 4400 RPM after fan replacement

Several months ago the left side fan on my MBP died as the result of a worn bearing. The computer is covered under Apple Care so I sent it in to have the fan replaced. Ever since the fan was replaced the idle speed on both fans is in excess of 4K rpm even when the CPU shows minimal activity. SMC fan control is set to 2K rpm. iStat Nano widget displays temperature at 120 Degrees Fahrenheit and fan speed at 4500K. I took my MBP back to my local Apple authorized service center and told them what was occurring since having the fan replaced. From Hardin Apple service center in Arlington my MBP was shipped to Houston Texas where Apple Service Technicians replaced the Logic board. I have since reset the PMU by removing the battery and holding down the power button for 5 seconds. I have also run the Apple Hardware Diagnostic test using the install disc which showed no hardware malfunctions.
With the CPU 95% idle the fans should not be running anywhere near 4K. Despite two trips to Apple Service my MPB still has a fan probably which is not only annoying because of the increased noise but it is affecting my battery life as well. If anyone has any ideas as to how to fix this problem which I have not already attempted please post them. I am hesitant to send my MBP back for more service at this time due to their failure to fix the problem the first time or check the results. They were aware of the problem when I sent it in for service and when they returned it to me the same problem persisted. This type of service does not inspire customer confidence.

I'd be inclined to try an "archive and install" of the OS, Jason, and leave off any third party "add ons" like SMC fan control for the moment.
Alternatively if you have an external HD then you could try installing a "clean" copy of the OS on this and using it as the boot drive, to see if this overcomes the problem
There are OS software elements to the process of fanspeed control and if these are corrupted then the fans are likely to run at "failsafe" speed.
Another possibility may be that a temp sensor hasn't been properly re-connected, again resulting in "failsafe" sped operation.
Rod

Fan Replacement?

My G4 867DP's fan doesn't come on when it gets to about 134-5F CPU temp...like it always has...As a result, the CPU's temp just keeps going up, so I turn it off before it causes more damage...I don't know which fan is not working and is this a user replaceable thing? Machine works fine except for this....Help!!!

The main fan is behind the front drive bay and blows directly on the processor heat sink. My 1.25G MDD has a small fan in the side door that services the optical drive and two little ones in the power supply. If processor temps are climbing, it's most likely the main fan.
On my newer MDD, the fans run all the time, speeding up slightly when the load gets heavy. When working, did yours stay off until the heat rose and then kick in? If so, there may be a fault with a sensor. If you run Apple Hardware test (on one of the CDs that came with the computer), it can point to sensor failures. That could save the trouble of replacing the fan only to find that the logic board has a problem.
There is a cheaper test: power off and open up the computer. Nudge the main fan with a plastic or wooden stick to see it it's seized up. Sometimes the nudge will get the fan running although it often indicates a need for cleaning at best and a failing fan at worst. The fan is easy to remove and replace and should be something you can do at home.
Often a thorough cleaning and eviction of dust bunnies can reduce operating temps. See this recent post I made about areas to look for airflow problems here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1999976&tstart=0
I don't have the specs for the fan at hand but will look around. The main considerations are, first, airflow rating and, second, fit. A replacement fan must match the original in its capacity to move air, and obviously must fit the space provided.

Replacement Case Fans

Are the Vantec SF series Case fans good replacements for Mac Towers?
[80 mm|http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999602&nmmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text--]
[120 mm|http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999614&nmmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text--]
Thank you!
-Mike

When the fan's 3-pin connector is plugged into (PC) motherboards, the yellow wire provides the fan speed (RPMs). In the event that I might use it at a later time, I usually cut off the yellow wire near the connector, and then tape the end of it.

K8N Neo4 Platinum - fan replacement

I have a 2 month old K8N Ne04 Platinum edition (not SLI) motherboard. At first the system was dead quiet, however the NForce4 Ultra's stock fan has become increasingly loud over the last week, to the point where I can no longer hear myself think.
Can a new fan be ordered and attached to the existing heatsink, or does the whole unit need to be replaced? I have no idea what 3rd party part would be compatible, any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Quote from: Iceman81 on 07-July-05, 07:30:38
Hello there, I too had the same problem after 1 month of having the K8N Neo4 Platinum Motherboard. All was well and silent then all of a sudden the NORTHBRIDGE fan started clattering and getting very loud to which was very disturbing.
The only way around this is completely taking out the "MSI" provided NORTHRBIDGE fan by removing the motherboard from the case and pressing on the clips on back of the board that hold the fan and then popping in a new NORTHBRIDGE fan/cooler. I found a great replacement for the cheapie MSI provided fan in the "VANTEC CCB-A1C Ball VGA COOLER" which is all copper based and purchased from www.newegg.com for under 15 US dollars shipped.
Below is the picture of what the fan I recommend looks like...
I have since been using the "VANTEC ICEBERG COPPER COOLER" and the NForce4 chipset has been running very-very cool and was a perfect fit!
Take care, Ice!
Sorry to revive an old thread but looking at my problem and how often it was that question asked here, I want you to help clear things up...
Is this Cooler you are referring to, this one? The same model and everything?
http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-23998289-cooler-chipset-o-video-vantec-iceberq-modding-_JM
Because if it is, I can buy it here knowing I will have that cooler replaced...
Another thing, Which is better? Titanium or copper? cos the titanium one is cheaper...
Thanxs a lot for helping me out pals...
EDIT: Sorry, pal... Didn't mean to offend anyone

Where can I get a replacement case fan for a HP Pavillion 180t

The case fan on my 5 year old HP Pavillion 180t has begun to make noise when running. This is the fan mounted to the back of the case, drawing air over the CPU cooling stack. From what I can gather from the HP support site, this model is no longer supported. I need to know the specifics for the fan in order to find a replacement. I would hate to have to purchase another PC because a $20.00 fan was failing. Thanks

The rear mounted fan is commonly called the System Fan. As a reference, it's model number and pic can be found here. The fan is a 3 wire 92mm x 92mm x25mm case can. Amazon price is lower.

CONVERT(DATETIME,REPLACE({$p_input_date}, \'-\', \'.\'), 120)

Can any body please let me know any error in this syntax
$v_txn_id=sql('Datastore name','SELECT min(TRANSACTION_ID) FROM "XXXXX"
where (erp_last_update_date) >= CONVERT(DATETIME,REPLACE({$p_input_date}, \'-\', \'.\'), 120)
and (PRODUCT_CODE) is null ');

in same error i am facing
3240
8124
DBS-070401
7/7/2014 10:10:08 AM
ODBC data source <10.2.13.138> error message for operation <SQLExecute>: <[Microsoft][SQL Server Native Client 11.0][SQL

Sawtooth Quieting Project: Fan Replacement - Specs on 120 mm case fan?

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