CoolBook: Is it effective? Is it safe?

My MBP (2.33 GHz, Core2Duo) gets extremely hot. Following Apple discussions, it maybe normal. Normal but hot, especially the left part. I have heard about CoolBook, and am getting tempted to use it. However, a small question mark has entered my head. Namely, if the solution is so simple, and so very cheap, why was not it simply adopted by Apple? I guess Apple engineers were looking for the best working conditions, and thus, even if CoolBook is apparently effective, is it really safe to use it in the long run?
Rμν - ½gμνR = 8πGTμν

Is your computer not working? If it's just hot, I wouldn't use this. Notice that Apple refers to these are notebooks, not LAPtops. Don't touch bare skin with them.
They're made of aluminum to help disperse the heat, so they are going to get very warm. But messing with internals with software is something I wouldn't recommend if you don't know what you are doing.

Similar Messages

Passed on 10.5.5 (held out with Coolbook) should I upgrade to 10.5.6?

I have two questions:
1. For anyone that has held out like me, not installed the MBA update nor the 10.5.5, to stay with CoolBook: What are you doing about the 10.5.6 update?
2. For anyone that did the MBA update or the 10.5.5 update and had the problems of kernel_task issue, 800MHz down clocking, etc. noticed any improvement with 10.5.6?
Background:
My MBA is 1st Generation and I had the core shutdown problem from day 1. I tried with AppleCare, changing the mother board, etc. Still the same problem. This drove me crazy for a few months.
Finally, I found a semi-acceptable solution with CoolBook. I only say "semi" because I shouldn't have to do this to get my computer to work, but Coolbook actually does the trick quite nicely. Many here have written about this.
So when the MBA update came out, and then it was stuffed into the 10.5.5 update, I passed. These updates forced you to remove coolbook because Apple had supposedly addressed the problem. However, many reported that:
a. their machines were being underclocked to 800MHz at all times;
b. some experienced overheating issues again;
c. most prominently, a 150% CPU kernel_task had many MBAs crawling...
So I passed. I think it was a smart choice, given all the complaints I've heard.
Now the new 10.5.6 came out. I'm still on 10.5.4, so I guess if I upgrade I get the 10.5.5 changes too. But perhaps Apple has addressed the issues mentioned above. It doesn't seem like it from their release. But I would like to know if anyone had experienced any difference.

I look forward to your finding.
I thought the MBA update, the 10.5.5 and 10.5.6 updates would neutralize my CoolBook settings, since it would handle the throttling itself. They do specifically say to remove the driver and software during the update.
I thought that also meant that I could not come back to CoolBook, or at least not do so as effectively.
Is anyone also using CoolBook just as effectively before MBA/10.5.5/10.5.6 updates as after?
Message was edited by: econ-mit

Center-Cut Safe Zone

Is there a way to add the center-cut safe zone in Premiere? In after effects the 1920x1080 safe zone has the center-cut lines but when I work in Premiere is just has the wide screen safe zone lines.

You can create any number of "guides" as PSD files. I use these to create a box-grid, or layout for PiP work. This ARTICLE goes into more detail. One can also easily create such in Titler.
Just remember to either turn the Track's Visibility OFF, or Delete, prior to Export.
Good luck,
Hunt

Yosemite screwed up my iMac

So I decided to upgrade to Yosemite straight from Lion (Pls don't ask me irrelevant questions like why I didn't go through maverick, etc etc, I didn't feel the need to)
Now with 4GB of RAM, I have probably the slowest, the most frustrating computer on the planet,
1. It's painfully Crawls, not even walks,
2. Keeps dropping the WiFi connection randomly and more important, keeps FORGETTING my WiFi connections when it drops them, so I have to add the connection manually every single time.
3. When I right click on a file, to chose 'Open with', it takes forever to 'Fetch' the list of applications that i can open the file with, sometimes even failing to do so, so I have click somewhere else and then right click again,
4. When I open a folder, it takes forever to draw the icons and while its getting them to appear, the finder window is frozen,
5. Everything, EVERY THING, crawls, opening any non-apple app is a nightmare, trying to open a microsoft office document completely make the iMac un-usable for like 3 - 4 minutes, Don't even ask about Google Chrome,
6. I don't even use Apple Mail, which has been said to be the cause of the memory leaks and high CPU usage,
7. Even the internet access appears slower compared to my windows PC,
8. When I try to drag a window, any window, across the screen, it NEVER happens on the first try, because its frozen, specially apps like photoshop, chrome, evernote, etc.
Now I have tried almost ALL the solutions popular on the internet, including turning off the bells and whistles by reducing transparency, changing the dock pop-up effect, rebooting into safe mode, fixing my disk permissions, resetting my System Management Controller (SMC), resetting my PRAM, replacing the Network Configuration & Preference Files for WiFi, switching to G band, Creating a New Wi-Fi Network Location with Custom DNS, whatever i could find on the internet, including this forum,
Everything except a clean install, but Nothing. The machine I have here is NOT the Mac I used to have and like. It *****.
This same iMac was what i used to call 'Awesome' just before this update when it had Lion.
Even TEXTEDIT takes like 30 seconds to open and shows a spinning wheel for like 10 seconds, for god's sake.
Why is Apple always so Dumb, Arrogant, Un-responsive to user's problems, aren't they making a **** lot of money already from us ? Can't they hire better brains who'll not push out updates before they are tested across hardware ?
Or at least some PR staff who listens to user's feedback on their own forums and responds, not in copied-pasted dumb text from their website though, instead of sitting around in their offices playing on their iPads ?
If an OS is SO resource-intensive, why push it to older models, do they want to make everyone buy more RAM and newer hardware every time something new comes along ?
I'm regretting trying this update. Could anyone please advise what's the best way out of this mess ? Would a Maverick clean install be good for a mid 2010 intel iMac ?
Hardware: 3.06 GHZ Intel Core i3, 4 GB RAM,
Apps most used: Chrome, Photoshop, Evernote, Textwrangler, iTunes.

Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
The title of the Console window should be All Messages. If it isn't, select
SYSTEM LOG QUERIES ▹ All Messages
from the log list on the left. If you don't see that list, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar at the top of the screen. Click the Clear Display icon in the toolbar. Then take one of the actions that you're having trouble with. Select any messages that appear in the Console window. Copy them to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message by pressing command-V.
The log contains a vast amount of information, almost all of which is irrelevant to solving any particular problem. When posting a log extract, be selective. A few dozen lines are almost always more than enough.
Please don't indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Please don't post screenshots of log messages—post the text.
Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting.

Right-click on Magic Mouse and Volume Controls on Wireless keyboard suddenly stopped working

I am running Mavericks 10.9.2 on an Late 2012 iMac.
One morning the right click on my Magic Mouse and the volume controls on the wireless keyboard stopped working.
These mouse and keyboard themselves seem fine; they work okay ehn used on a MacBook.
Everything else about the mouse and keyboard is fine.
This seems to be a problem what has been around for a whole, with a wide variety of solutions.
I have read
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16799039#16799039
https://discussions.apple.com/message/23474052#23474052
https://discussions.apple.com/message/19660884#19660884
and have tried
Clicking on and off the 'right click' checkbox in the Mouse System Preferences - No effect
Deleting /Library/Preferences/com.apple.Bluetooth.plist - No effect
Restarting in Safe Mode - When starting in safe mode, the computer crashes out and restarted
Resetting NVRAM / PRAM - Is it CTRL+CMD+P+R or CMD+OPT+P+R ? Neither work for me (I do try it using a wired keyboard, but never get the double chime)
Upgraded to 10.9.2 - no effect
Moved the /System/Library/Extensions/AppleHIDMouse.kext and AppleHIDKeyboard.kext and and back in (and re-authenticate) - No joy
Moved the /System/Library/Extensions/AppleHIDMouse.kext and AppleHIDKeyboard.kext from a working MacBook on same OS - Made the keyboard misbehave even more
Has anyone got any other cures for this?
Thanks in advance.

Here is what worked for me. My scrolling on the mighty mouse and a few buttons on my wireless keyboard weren't working properly. I reset the SMC, a link explaining the process is below. Hope it helps you too!
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964

Equium will not boot - how to access Recovery partition?

Hi, my sister has a 2008 Equium A200-1V0 with Vista 32-bit which will not boot (probably due to virus rootkit damage). It loads the BIOS but then goes straight to black screen with flashing cursor.
F8 does not work.
F2 goes to Phoenix TrustedCore Setup utility. The Toshiba hard drive and CD-ROM drive are listed in Main and Boot in the correct order.
Using F12 I can get it to boot from a Win7 64-bit repair disc I burned using my laptop.
However, this does not recognise the OS nor any image or restore points (because it is 64-bit) but it will load Command Prompt.
In *Command Prompt*, I can start Notepad and when I click File/ Open and double click on Computer it shows 4 Hard drives as follows:
Local Disk (C:)
Data (D:) 42 GB free of 54.5 GB
WinRE (E:) 1.11 GB free of 1.46 GB
Boot (X:) 29.0 MB free of 31.5 MB (which is used by the Repair disc)
So the C: drive is listed but without capacity.
*CHKDSK*
chkdsk c: /r and press return
"The type of the file system is NTFS.
Unable to determine volume version and state. CHKDSK aborted.
Failed to transfer logged messages to the event log with status 50.
*Running TESTDISK*
Analysis:
Partition Start End Size in Sectors
1 P Windows RE(store) 0 32 33 191 89 26 3072000
2 * HPFS - NTFS 191 89 27 7477 118 1 117051392
3 P HPFS - NTFS 7477 118 2 14592 190 62 114307072 (data)
* = Primary bootable
When doing Quick Search and then P - list files, of the second partition it reports:
"Can't open filesystem. Filesystem seems damaged."
So what I would like to do is boot up from Windows Restore on the E drive.
My question is to any Toshiba experts: When F8 does not work how do I use the recovery partition???
Laptop is:
Part Number : PSAF5E-002005KS
Key Features
- Intel Pentium Dual-Core Processor T2310
- Genuine Windows Vista Home Premium Edition
- DVD Super Multi (Double Layer) drive
- 2,048 (1,024 + 1,024) MB RAM (667 MHz)
- 15.4 " WXGA TFT display 1,280 x 800

*UPDATE*:
I have borrowed a genuine Windows Vista Home Premium 32-bit dvd and booted up with that.
Clicked on "Repair your Computer"
Then it goes striaght to System recovery Options but no Operating System is shown. Click Next.
Then:
"Choose a Recovery Tool.
Operating system: Unknown on (Unknown) Local Disk"
*Startup Repair*
This takes 1 second.
Root cause found
System volume on disk is corrupt.
*System Restore*
"X - To Perform an offline System Restore, you must specify which Windows installation you would like to restore.
For example, if the installation located in "C:\Windows" should be restored enter the following command:
rstrui.exe /OFFLINE:C:\Windows "
*Windows Complete PC Restore*
" No valid backup locations could be found.
Windows cannot find a backup on the hard disks or DVDs on this computer. Attach the correct hard disks or insert the last backup DVD and then start the restore process again. "
Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool
Windows cannot check for memory problems...[snip]
*Command Prompt*
This is working fine.
CHKSDK C:
The type of file system is NTFS.
Unable to determine volume version and state. CHKDSK aborted.
The HDD is 120 GB and is split by Toshiba into 3 partitions.
C:\ drive (56GB) is bootable with Windows - this is corrupted.
D:\ drive (55 GB) has all Data - fully accessible
E:\ drive is CDROM
F:\ drive (1.46 GB) is the WinRE recovery partition - this is fully accessible.
So my question still remains: can I recover my Toshiba laptop using this recovery partition?
PLEASE NOTE: as mentioned above, pressing F8 during boot has no effect and therefore Safe Mode cannot be accessed.

If 1.1 froze your new iMac, dont' give up yet - try this first

+If your aluminum iMac gave you problems before the Firmware Update v1.1, this is not the thread for you.+
But if your new iMac was fine out of the box, and fine after Update 1.0, _but became problematic after 1.1_, read on.
This was my case - all was well up until a few days after the 1.1 update. Then the following happened sporadically, leading to several power-button shutdowns.
· endless blue screen on startup after the gray apple but before the login window
· funny display artifacts - incorrect pixels, section waviness, discolored blocks
· display freeze out of nowhere - everything but the mouse cursor "stuck" forever
Some say to return or replace the whole iMac at the Apple Store. Others say to Archive (or Erase) & Install OS X from the original DVDs. Before doing any of that, and assuming you've completed the obvious (deleting suspect .PLIST files, reversed any recent hardware or non-Apple software changes, etc.), try the following first. You have nothing to lose except a little bit of time.
Step "Zero" is to reboot the computer into Safe Mode and backup your important data.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107393
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107392
Step 1 is to rollback your iMac's firmware to 1.0, while still in Safe Mode, as follows.
http://www.macfixit.com/article.php?story=20070924095738296
(find the list numbered 1-6 under "Solution")
Step 2 is to make sure Step 1 takes effect:
· (still in Safe Mode) Delete the 1.1 Receipt from Macintosh HD/Library/Receipts/
· Shutdown and reset the SMC: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303446
· Power-on and reset PRAM: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
· Reboot from the Tiger install DVDs, run Disk Utility, and perform Repair Disk (likely needed after power-button shutdowns)
· Quit the Installer, Restart (a normal one), login and Repair Disk Permissions using Disk Utility
· Manually run all CRON jobs - "sudo periodic _" {daily,weekly,monthly} in Terminal
· Shutdown, reconnect anything still disconnected, and power-on as normal
Step 3 is to use your iMac like you used to and check to see if any problems return.
Step 4 is to use your hopefully now-stable iMac to inform Apple and its boss about this unacceptable situation:
http://www.apple.com/feedback/imac.html
[email protected]
My iMac has been good as new for 48 hours now. In that time, I have rolled over the Dock rapidly and repeatedly, played 1080p trailers in QuickTime, and extensively used iPhoto and iTunes. (Before the rollback, as little as a magnified Dock icon would cause a freeze, anywhere from 5-30 minutes after logging in, assuming I even made it to the login screen.)
If the above still doesn't work, then you should Archive & Install OS X, and reapply all updates except 1.1. If the problems continue, Erase & Install OS X + the same drill on updates. +If there's still no luck, then+ I'm afraid you're out of luck and need to exchange your iMac.
But I'm willing to bet it won't come to that.

illy5603 wrote:
Just an update to report that I ran through this whole thing and my symptoms persist, even when in safe mode. I am pretty sure my problem is hardware, it isn't the same lock up problem everyone is having, that was my first iMac, I am having the weird blue vertical line problem that is posted in the Macbook pro forum (but on my iMac).
Wow, that's something totally different from the 1.1-freeze issue. I've not heard about that on the iMacs until now.

Late 2007 MacBook Pro intermittent black screen

I have this very odd issue with an intermittent black screen on a late 2007 MacBook Pro (4GB/320GB 7200rpm) Mac OS X 10.6.8 v1.1
Apologies for the length of the post.
In cycles separated by a few days to a week, the screen will flicker to black, initially very briefly, then for longer periods until it is black continuously, where it stays from a few hours to a couple of days then it flickers to normal, again very briefly then with longer intervals until it is steady and normal. It can then be fine for a week or more.
When the screen is working, it's perfect; no lines, stripes, colour shift or any difference to what one would expect. When it is black, the backlight is still operational (and dimming when on battery power) but there is no image - all pixels are solid black. Shining a torch on/through the screen does not reveal any image. When mirrored, the external monitor shows the brightness adjustment moving up and down in response to the key presses but it has no effect on the internal screen.
My external display (Eizo) is always functional no matter what the built-in one is doing and is completely solid at all times.
There is no correlation to temperature (I have SMC fan control), sleep, restart, fan speed, power source or anything environmental. The MacBook is on a fan stand for most of the time. External connections make no difference. If the fault is present before changing any of these factors, it is there after.
I am aware that this machine has known vulnerabilities with GPU and display issues but none present quite like this. I have performed the usual trawl on the net and I now know more than I ever wanted to about attempts to fix it.
Software remedies attempted:
Resetting PRAM and power manager.
No sleep image file (never used this option). I deleted the old swap files that were there in any case but this unsurprisingly did nothing.
Resetting the display settings via keyboard commands or Sys Prefs.
Screen savers and settings are not implicated.
Nothing whatever in the console logs that I can see.
TechTool Pro gives video RAM a clean bill of health and all other components pass including tests on the HD with TTP and DiskWarrior.
Safe boot and booting from systems on backups seem to have no effect but one safe boot restored the screen briefly - I think it was a coincidence.
I updated the OS from 10.6.6 to 10.6.8 while this fault was coming and going and it made no difference. I usually prepare the machine for updates by running the cron jobs, repairing permissions etc.
In expectation of suffering this fault when the external monitor was not connected, I installed iScreen on the MacBook and use my iPad as a supplementary display and that works well too. Having all three operating, when the internal is functioning, is quite fun.
Hardware tests:
I removed the upper plate holding the keyboard and the interior of the machine was very clean with only some small dust accumulations in the fans, which were removed. There was no sign of any discolouration, corrosion, or other unpleasantness on the PCBs. All connectors and wiring looked good.
Every part of the logic board, cables and connectors were percussed, gently deflected and spray freezed, both while the fault was present and not (machine running) with no effect.
Display back was removed and the LCD board given the same treatment. No changes.
Display cable disconnected at both ends and tested for continuity (probe resistance accounted for) and consistency with a Fluke 87 multimeter - passed OK. On a scope, active signals and power were present on all the pins when the display was working but the fault did not occur during this test, which might have been interesting.
No apparent shorting of the display cable but without removing it this cannot be proved.
Problem not affected by hinge position, pressure on any part of the display, twisting, percussing etc.
Used compressed air to blow out the connectors which were reseated carefully.
After all this, the machine remains in exactly the same state, cycling between operational and black with various flickering stages as it comes and goes.
All I can deduce is that as the external monitor has always been OK, the GPU itself is probably working fine and the fault is more likely in the LCD panel electronics. I doesn't feel like a software issue to me but heck, I don't know what is going on.
Does anyone have any experience of something like this?
Thanks,
Joel.

Thomas,
Thanks for your post and I'm sorry you have suffered the same problems.
My trust levels are not very high because it's clear there is some systemic display problem with this model, which is why Apple are fixing them. As I mentioned, we have no idea if the replacement boards are any different to the originals. From your experience it would look like they are not and my suspicion is that it is very unlikely that Apple made a new batch of these logic boards a long time after the model was discontinued. If anyone has evidence to the contrary, I stand to be corrected.
As you say, the difference between our two faults appears to be that a physical deformation of some part of the machine does something with yours but never did with mine. At one point I felt that a short in the internal display cable seemed like the best explanation for the problem but it looks like it's more complex than that because of the behaviour of our external displays and subsequent strange booting behaviour.
If, as I have read, the soldering of the GPU was faulty and leads to progressive failure of the graphics sub-system, then all kinds of strange behaviours could arise and produce the intermittent problems we have seen. Micro-fractures of the chip interconnects would suggest that tiny movements might change the presentation of the fault. If soldering really is the issue, then keeping the machine as cool as possible will extend the life of the connections. Consequently mine will sit on a fan-stand for the rest of its days, which is no problem because it just had Win 7 installed on it and I don't want to be seen in public with it in that state ;-)
All we can conclude is that a logic board swap fixes the problem for some indeterminate period, so the problem is on that board. Whether it is a design fault with the NVIDIA chip itself or a manufacturing fault with the board is not clear but we can probably forget LCD panels, cables, sleep issues, power supplies and all the other peripheral issues unless there is yet another design issue that causes the GPU to fail.
Are you intending to present your machine to Apple for another go at a fix?

Super thin black border showing around video when I zoom out or pan the video...

Hi all,
I have a video I'm making in Adobe Premier Pro CS5.5. I am using 2 video slots in Premiere Pro's sequence area. A white image is in "Video 1" spot and a video is in"Video 2" spot.
The white image in "Video 1" slot is the exact same color as the background color of the video in "Video 2" slot.
The reason for this is when I zoom the video out or pan it slightly off the screen I just want it to look like the video is moving (and I don't want anyone to be able to see the black backdrop that is normal background color on a Premiere Pro video).
After I go to effects control, and change the position and scale of the video; the video scales out and pans over fine ...however, the border of the video shows slightly ...even flickers a little. Is there a way to get rid of this thin black border line? ..So no one can tell where the video (in "video 2" slot) ends and where that white background I have in "video 1" is ...by removing this flickering border?
Here's a Screencast of the issue. I point at that thin border I'm talking about when I pan the video over (which reveals the white backdrop):http: Screencast.com/t/45xp0bQ82f
Thank you so much for any help you can provide. I appreciate it.

CROP effect
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

Iweb 1.1.2 and iWeb 2.0 on the same machine?

Is it possible/safe to run both versions on the same machine? If so how does one do this? If this has already been covered, would someone be so kind as to point me the way?
I cannot trust 2.0 for serious work, but I think that it would be good to have it around in the event that the problems with it are every resolved. But I would like/need to continue to develop a website for a commercial interest and thus need to be working on the previous version.
So, I would appreciate very much if some of you wizards could tell me what is the most effective (and yes safe) way to be able to have both versions running on the same machine -- not at the same time of course.
thanks for your time!

I think I answered one of your posts on this subject in another topic regarding running both versions of iWeb on one computer.
I am doing it but I don't think its very wise unless you are real careful.
I don't publish "serious" websites to .Mac but I do use it for testing sites.
I have two old test sites on .Mac made in iWeb '06 and one made using iWeb '08.
I don't see why they would interfere with each other. They are in separate folders on your iDisk. Publishing to .Mac hasn't caused me any problems but then I really did not care if they got screwed up as I was only testing!
If you are working with more than one website you are better to save the domain.sites2 files in separate folders to make working on them and publishing to a folder easier and to publish each to a server with their own domain names.
The only problems I have had with converting old sites to iWeb '08 is with the page backgrounds and the navigation menu. I just quickly redid the backgrounds and that solved that. I'm not going to bother with the navigation issue because I have decide to rebuild my sites, one by one, in iWeb '08.
The transition from iWeb '06 to '08 was so horrendous for a lot of people that I just want to leave it in the past.
iWeb '08 is working fine for me. Its so easy and fast to use - what's the big deal about rebuilding a website when you get to incorporate the new features!
Message was edited by: Roddy

Imported slide show movie looks weird and flickering

I exported a slide show of high rez photos out of Lightroom as a MP4 movie @1080 and inserted it in to my final Cut X movie and most of the slides have areas of the photo that are flickering back and forth. Seems like it might be the areas with a lot of detail. is there a fix for this.

Under "Effects" drop "Broadcast Safe", onto the slide show, and see if that helps.
Tom is right, do not make them MPEG4 first, export out as a .MOV file.
Russ A

How to set female voice as software instrument?

I want to use the GarageBand software keyboard to play female vocals (to use in practicing pitch matching). I can't seem to figure out how to do this. Maybe there's a plugin I need?
I'm pretty technically competent, but a novice w/music sw.
To be clear, I don't want setting that optimize recording a real female voice. I just want to press a key and hear a female voice, in tune, that I can match the pitch of my own voice to.

Do you have the JamPacks installed?
In the Jam Pack "Voices" is a Software Instrument "Synth Soprano Solo". That is the closest you can get to a female solo voice with the ready made instruments.
The JamPacks are available as part of MainStage 3 bought from the AppStore.
Or create your own vocal instrument by duplicating a "Sound effectss" Instrument and adding your own samples to the scales.
Sing the scales once and correct the pitch with flextime to get it perfect. Export the scales as an audio file and reimport it.
Cut out regions "C", "C#","D". etc.
Create a software instrument track.and set it to "Sound Effects Instument". Safe the Instrument with anew name . Now modify the sound effects by dragging your samples to the corresponding keys and you can play your own voice perfectly in tune.
Safe your new instrument.
See this help text: GarageBand '11: Play sounds with the Sound Effects Software Instrument
You will see the sound effects you added to your custom instrument, when you hover the mouse over the keys. This will display the name of the sample the key will play.
Regards
Léonie

Migrating from WS2008 to WS2012

Hello , i have one main Domain controller in my Data center , a secondary domain controller in another site , and 7 RODC in different sites ( they all follow the main domain Mst***.org ) . All of which are WS2008 ( some are R2 ) .
My question is , knowing that i have around 1200 users and dhcp+DNS roles installed on my main DC , what is the most effective , quick , yet safe process to upgrade all MY DC environment to 2012 ? and will it affect other servers i have ? such as the
file server , or Exchange 2007 ?
Thanx in advance

Hello,
you should NOT do in place upgrades from DCs, i don't know any admin that will do this, instead install a new OS DC into the existing domain.
For the OS DC upgrade please see
http://blogs.msmvps.com/mweber/2012/07/27/upgrading-an-active-directory-domain-from-windows-server-2008-or-windows-server-2008-r2-to-windows-server-2012/
For Exchange please see
http://blogs.technet.com/b/rmilne/archive/2013/09/17/exchange-support-for-windows-server-2012-r2.aspx
AFAIK file servers should not be effected from any DC change.
Best regards
Meinolf Weber
MVP, MCP, MCTS
Microsoft MVP - Directory Services
My Blog: http://blogs.msmvps.com/MWeber
Disclaimer: This posting is provided AS IS with no warranties or guarantees and confers no rights.
Twitter:

Shop vicariously through me!!!

There are quite a few of these "what should I buy?" posts and everyone seems to love giving their opinions so consider this:
I'm in Japan and I'll be here at least another year. I live in a tiny apartment with a tiny desk, my Logic use has outgrown my PBG4 and I'm tired of being hamstrung by this tiny screen.
My first instinct is to buy a Mac Pro and one of those big Dell/BenQ multi-input displays. That way Logic is all set for horsepower and display size and I can even watch movies and play Gran Turismo on a nice big screen. Trouble is, this all has to go home (USA) someday. Putting a mac pro and a 24" display through baggage on a plane makes me nervous and I wonder if shipping it is very cost-effective and/or safe.
An imac would be a more streamlined solution and it should suffice for Logic but it's probably only a little easier to ship home and then I wouldn't have the display input options I could get with a third-party display.
I could get a MB/MBP and a big external display but then I'd worry about outgrowing the hardware again and I'm not really sure all that will fit on my desk.
Any suggestions?

You can only use this BADI for customer defined fields. It will not allow you to change standard fields.

I think I have opened the sobig.f virus in my hotmail account and it keeps seding emails to my contacts. How do I stop it, and will it effect any of my other transactions like internet banking/shopping, is it safe?

I think I have opened the sobig.f virus in my hotmail account and it keeps seding emails to my contacts. How do I stop it, and will it effect any of my other transactions like internet banking/shopping, is it safe To continue using my ipad ?

This isn't due to malware. There is no known malware capable of infecting an iPad that has not been jailbroken (ie, hacked to allow apps from outside the App Store).
As lizdance40 says, your Hotmail account has been hacked remotely. Change the password immediately. Hotmail accounts are popular targets, but as long as you choose a good password, and make sure that password is not the same as a password you use with any other account, you should be safe.
I disagree with lizdance40's statement that you have to abandon the account and create a new e-mail address. If a hacker is able to get back in even after changing the password, the problem is not with the account itself. There's another vulnerability of some kind somewhere. Perhaps the account allows hackers to leave a "back door" to get back in (such as with GMail's delegation feature), in which case any such feature needs to be reviewed and have settings changed. Perhaps you are checking mail in an insecure manner while on an insecure network (ie, a wireless network that requires no password). Perhaps you are using a password on multiple accounts, and a different account has been compromised. Perhaps a hacker has used knowledge gained by prior access to your account to achieve "social hacking" (ie, convincing a tech to give him access because he has "forgotten the password"). There are many scenarios, but there's no good reason to abandon the account entirely.

CoolBook: Is it effective? Is it safe?

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