FXplug for Film Look

I used to have a technique in FCP to make the footage look more filmic, where I'd duplicate the video track, apply a slight blur to the bottom track and blend them Soft Light composite mode. I remember when FCP 5 came along I saw an FXplug demo'ed that gave approximately that effect. But I can't remember which filter it is. Does anyone know? Thanks very much.
Mac Pro Quad 2.66 Mac OS X (10.4.9) FCP 5.1.4

Hi:
Look if you find something here:
http://toolfarm.com/pluginfinder/index.php?FxPlug
Hope that helps !
Alberto

Similar Messages

HVX200 vs. SDX900 -- for FILM LOOK edited in FCP

What are the latest thoughts on relative strengths & demerits of the two cameras, for shooting movies to edit in FCP, then output to tape & DVD, as well as projection and blowups? It seesm to be a hotly contested question, and the more opinions I can tally the more I learn. - THANKS!
G5 Mac OS X (10.0.x)

Zebulun - I certainly agree with your point about the sensibility and skill of the operator being the main issue.. (I'm sure Rembrandt could paint very well with amateur brushes). At the same time, though, I want to research this as thoroughly as possible. One controversy is the SDX's ability to look filmic yet sharp when blown up. Some say true HD looks far better, while others debate that vigorously. One discussion on the Panasonic site got so rancorous the moderator closed down the thread! - Anyhow. Thanks for your input. I'm inclined toward the SD beause of workflow and bigger size of the camera.
G5 Mac OS X (10.0.x)

ARTIST WANTED: For creating a film look

Hi
I'm just wrapping a shour film. It is about 20-30 min long and I need someone to go over what I have shot on mmy didgital camera and give it the film look. It is a student film so the budget is limited but I want to offer a fair price.
Some examples:
and
Using magic bullet is fine.
Here are some shots from my film:
Thanks for you time I look forward to your response
Michael

Send me a private message concerning your posts for an artist and we can discuss it.

Why can't my HD to SD SHORT film look good? Best Encode?

I have a 12 minute short film on HDV. I imported it to FCP5 and then DVDSP4 and created an HD-DVD and it looked GREAT. Then I found out my computer is pretty much the only DVD player that can play the HD-DVD I had created. Thus began my journey to make a decent SD-DVD, and so far I am not even close...
HERE'S WHAT I'M DOING:
1. I used FCP to downconvert from HDV to DV (I don't have access to the camera to use it downconvert option). I'm sure this step is where the quality drops at least 4 generations!
2. DVDSP5 > Preferences > Mode: Two Pass VBR, Bit Rate: 5.5, Max Bit Rate: 8.5, Motion Est: Best
IMAGE PROBLEM:
Lots of pixelation in darker areas of the screen. Places i could see in HD are now just black and pixelated black at that.
TWO QUESTION:
1. My main annoyance is this: When I burn the DVD, it only burns about 20% of the DVD (HD-DVD would use 60%). I have the space on my DVD-R, why can't I utilize this space and burn 90% of this space with data to make my film look good?
2. iDVD did a better job of making the SD DVD look good. So I know there is something i could do. I've never used Compressor. How can I encode my HDV for use in SD DVD environement in DVDSP5?
Any help will be much appreciated... I hope answers to these questions helps others as well...
Best,
AJ

AJ -
Thanks for your reply -I hope i can clarify below.
Yes i have been editing the sequences using native HDV 1080i.
When comparing the output of the converted formats here is what i did.
I have a Sony a HC1 HDV Camcorder. I captured and edited all clips with native HDV. Then i recorded back the HDV material back into the camera (HUGE issues with doing this in FCP - but ill leave that to another thread)
From there i did two things
1) I sent the native HDV Final Cut sequence to compressor and set it to DVD, 90Min, Best quality, 2pass VBR. I burned a DVD with DVDSP4 with this encoded sequence
2) i played back the HDV Sequence from my sony camcorder back into the television directly - but using the composite video output (not using the high definition component output).
3) I set my Sony HDV cam to output via firewire as standard DV (eg - i let the camera do its own HDV to DV downconvert). from there i recaptured back into FCP, compressed with the same compressor settings, and sent to DVDSP4
I compared side by side the content from all three options. Hands down Options 2 and 3 looked MUCH better than option 1.
Here is what i noticed
1) A lot of motion artifacts with option 1. This especially when the camera pans and moves. I think this has to do with the way interlacing during downconversion happens. If i run the FCP sequence through a de-interlace filter it actually does come out better - though not as smooth since you are loosing 1/2 the frames.
2) A lot of digital artifacts. pixellation and such like. It looks almost like one of those old VCDs in terms of image quality.
I had searched the forums and found that many other people are having the same problems - so i know that i am not alone on this one (unfortunately). I do find it frustrating that a very expensive >$1000 application suite which claims to support HD has so many issues with editing in HD (this is just one of the issues.. others are that you cannot reliably export HDV back to tape, there are issues with editing multi-cam with HDV with more than 3 sequences... etc..).

Film Look ...

Hi,
I have been racking my brains as to figure out how to give that 'film look' to PAL video in FCE. Using a clip, I 'selected all' and went into video effects to find de-interlace (or is 'interlace' that I need) ... I clicked on de-interlace and nothing happened.
Is someone going to tell me that PAL is already de-interlaced? Have I got my terminology all wrong?
If so, how can I get the effect I'm looking for?
Thanks for your expertise!

Doing a forum search would give you a plethora of results from people asking about the "film look", so please do your research; that having been said, I think you'll find that Nattress Film Effects is your answer. It's not free, but considering its performance, its completely worth it.
http://www.nattress.com/

Mixing Frame Rates and Creating Old Film Look?

Hello, I'm working with AVCHD footage which is 59.94 fps and have made my sequence settings at this frame rate. I've dragged in a few clips 23.98fps, 24fps, 25fps and 29.97fps, I'm attempting to give it a old film look so was going to render out at 14 fps as this is what 8mm is filmed at, I've never worked with mixed rates so any advice as to whether this is going to work? Should I have my sequence setting at my highest frame rate and the majority of the video is 59.94fps? would it work exporting at 14 or 16 fps?

I've never worked with mixed frame rates, but for the old film look, I like the Posterize Time effect set to 18 (one of the two standards for Super 8 that my camera had) and use Magic Bullet Misfire.

First DSLR for filming

Hey everyone,
I am looking for a DSLR for filming purposes. I have been recently watching reviews and video footages to see which is the best for me. Obviously a 5d mark II or III would be the best choice but unfrtunately I cannot afford it.
I have also checked the 60D which looks amazing because of the lcd screen which is adjustable but it has lower image quality, the 6D which also has a full frame sensor as the 5D. But the 60D is cheaper.
Which one do you suggest?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I've used the 5D Mark II, 5D Mark III, and T3i for professional productions. I've not used the 60D or 7D. But, to start out, you can't go wrong with the T3i or T5i. The video is more than acceptable, and most viewers can't really tell the difference between the 5D Mark II and the T5i, not to mention the 60D. Now, the 5D Mark III is in another category altogether! The 5D Mark III is by far the best for DSLR video, but it's a little pricey for your first camera.
I would acquire the T5i (don't remember the non-US model number) and some good lenses. You can spend the difference between the T5i and 60D or 7D on some good non-S lenses that you can use as you upgrade bodies in the future. Spend your money on lenses first, then bodies. Your lenses will serve you much longer than your bodies!
Once you know that a DSLR meets your shooting requirements (they're still-frame cameras first, and video cameras second), you can either sell your T5i or use it as a backup/second camera when you buy a 5D Mark III or other Canon DSLR. Keep in mind that there are major limitations with all DSLRs when it comes to video, and make sure you can live with those limitations.
The major benefit for video of the T5i is the fold-out LCD screen. You will be shooting from different angles (high or low), and you can adjust the screen to compose your shot. Otherwise, you'll need an external monitor, rig, or other relatively expensive gear to adequately compose your shots.
A previous poster mentioned the Panasonic GH3, and that is a great camera for video, but the product line is not as broad or deep as Canon's. I think your decision to say with the Canon product line is good. Good luck in your shooting!

QM for Film Mfg. Industry

Dear All,
I want to know about Quality Management in Film Mfg. Industry / Paper Industry.
Please tell me, where i can get information for this.
I have a query in QM for Film Mfg. Industry.
The problem is:
Film production is in ROLLs. Base unit of measure is KG.
I want to segregate defective area inside the roll, while usage decision. area is in sq.meters
There is no extra field for this in standard transaction, as per my knowledge.
Please help.
my email id : [email protected]
GNK

I can't help you specifically with your question. But you might want to look at SAP's Mill products solutions. What you describe is very similar to what happens in the mills that produce things like carpet or rolled sheet metal. The carpet and metal are made in rolls measured in sq. ft. but very often managed and stored as EA. Defections are related to certain areas of the roll.
The following is from SAP's documentation on this solution, bolidng is mine.
Purpose
The SAP Mill Products component adds sector-specific functionality to an ERP system to satisfy the complex requirements of mill industries (e.g. metal, wood, paper, textiles, construction materials, and cable sectors).
These industry segments differ from others primarily in that the materials used have a large number of characteristics and variants. The materials in the segments listed above are also predominantly area-based (e.g. paper, textiles, plastic film) or length-based (e.g. cables, piping). Account must be taken of these material characteristics throughout the entire supply chain.
To cater for the particularities of these industry segments, SAP Mill Products features processes and functions that cover the entire supply-chain cycle from product design and configuration, through planning, order processing, capacity planning and production, to final delivery. Additional functions are available in costing and inventory management. SAP Mill Products are also integrated into Quality Management, Financial Accounting, and Controlling.
Here's the link:
http://help.sap.com/saphelp_dimp50/helpdata/EN/4e/1796374b088e5ce10000009b38f8cf/frameset.htm
Craig
Edited by: Craig Snyder on Mar 7, 2008 5:35 PM

How many frames should I cut out each second to get a old film look?

Hi,
What is the general rule of thumb (if their is one) of how many frames should be cut every second to achieve a choppy old film look? Or maybe it's not every second? What do you guys do?

you will get a more realistic look if you chop out frames manually
dump the playhead arbitrarily on the time line insert a cut nudge the playhead either i or 2 frames on and cut again discard the frames and either leave the black or butt the clips up for a "skip".
this really doesn't take long to do and is better than a predetermined sequence of chops made by a filter.
CGM do a free filter for aged film to add the hairs, navel lint, boogers etc . .

I know.. not another film look question, but here is goes...

Hi all i hope you can help me here.
Im used to doing safety, corporate, induction videos so Ive never been interested in getting the "film look" But now Ive got a music video to do and i really don't want it to look interlaced.
Now i did some test on my HVX200 25p, and read up on it a little. Which brought me to my question.
I know that when shooting with real film cameras AND HD 25p cameras there is the rule not to pan very fast because it becomes jittery. But when i did my tests outside with my HVX200 25p PAL on a tripod (no panning) my footage seem a whole lot more jittery that film movies i see on tv. Its so jittery i cant use the footage! im to scared to do the music video on 25p.
So now i want to know, am i doing something wrong? Is the shutter speed or the way you capture in FCP got anything to do with the jittery? Or is 25p just that jittery?
Another question. Does anybody have some tips to get a better look and feel to my music video? plug ins? or whatever?
Thanks so much for your replies.
Andre Meyer

Hi Meyer,
The reason I said your video still looks jittery is because you have not graded or used any additional adaptors on your cam. Turning on a progressive shutter alone will just make your VIDEO look like 24/25P video! The movement is greatly exaggerated! The point I was trying to make is that once you have graded your footage and if you are lucky enough to use a 35mm adaptor, much of that jitteriness (if that’s a word?!) will not be so noticeable. Remember, if it goes away completely, you are back to square one almost! Its about how acceptable you can get with the 3 components I was talking about in my previous post.
I dont own an HVX200, but I have a V1E (not as good as the HVX200) and I find the cinema Gamma not that great as a default.. I have to tweak it quite a lot to achieve the all important contrast and saturated colours. As for your HVX, just have a play until u get a look u like. The Cinema Gammas on the Cheaper Canons are dreadful and make the cam lose all their contrast! I guess this varies a lot with the mid-priced prosumer cams?!
You don’t need to own a 5D MkII (an ergonomic disaster in my opinion unless u have the full rail kit!) to have that 35mm DOF control. There are quite a few 35mm adaptors out there that have attachments for many types of video cameras. There are users in this forum I think that use these types of adaptors with the HVX200’s. However, such equipment is not cheap.. and of course a good quality stills lens’s are not exactly cheap either!
So to summarise:
1. Use a progressive frame rate 24/25P
2. Colour Grade to film... Best bet is to use Apple Colour... this is a really good colour corrector which has various preset that’s you can tweak and work pretty good as the film look. Of course you will need to experiment to get the effect u want. Alternatively, you can use Magic Bullet Looks.. which can be use used as a Plug-in to FCP, and is like Apple Colour on Steroids! It doesn’t offer the same amount of control as Color, but has some really interesting presets that can be easily tweaked.. and the good things is, this is all done without leaving FCP.. so its quick.
3. If you want to go the whole way and go for a 35mm adaptor.. then do your home work. Do you currently own a select of still lenses? Canon L series or Nikon Pro series? Of course u don’t need the pro lenses, but in this set up the quality of your stills lens becomes really critical! Take a look on YouTube and see the effect these adapter give, they can be quite amazing! Be prepared to spend over £2500 for the adaptor alone!
4. And of course, remember technique when shooting like this.. these adaptors do stop down your camera, you will probably have less light to play with. When u r tracking etc, DOF is really critical and can be difficult to master at first.
I don’t have any 35mm adapter, i try to achieve the film look by using steps 1 and 2..the result, well... its ok but often means I have to mess about with camera distances sometimes to achieve a decent DOF. Swings a roundabouts!

Simple solutions for cinematic look with 60i video?

I'm sure this questions pops up over and over but I'm getting a huge headache trying to sort everything out through my searches, especially as a beginner to the film making world. I'll get right to my questions, but first here is the equipment I am working with:
Camcorder = Sony HDR-XR500, shooting in 1920 x 1080 60i AVCHD format
Software = CS4 Creative Suite
I recently threw together a 10 min movie of a trip I just arrived back from using Premiere Pro, and while it was a lot of fun putting together I really have no idea if I went about it the right way. I want to practice taking a clip of mine and converting it to that cinematic look, and hope someone can help guide me through some steps.
Here is what I want to achieve:
- 2.35:1 pixel ratio
- 24p or similar effect (trying to figure this out makes my head spin)
I know color correction has a lot to do with the cinematic look, but I realize there are many ways of going about this so I'll refrain from asking any questions in regards to this for now. (I did find using the Fast Color Corrector and setting Saturation to 75%, and Input levels to 20, 1, 220 gave a nice film look)
Step 1: What settings should I use to create my new project?
Capture Format = HDV?
For the sequence presets should I use AVCHD 1080i30 (60i) non-anamorophic?
Step 2: If I want to create a 2.35:1 aspect ratio, should I simply crop my clip? I think I read somewhere for 1920 x 1080 video, crop 14% from top and bottom? Or should I crop when I export out the movie?
Step 3: What would be the simplest/quickest way of getting that 24fps look using Premiere Pro or After Effects? I know shooting in 24p is obviously the easiest way, but should I simply deinterlace my 60i video by right clicking clip>Field Options> Always deinterlace to achieve similar effect?
Step 4: Exporting video....again so many options I'm not sure what to do here. Basically, could someone provide me with the best exporting options for the format I'm trying to achieve for:
- Posting on Internet
- Viewing on computer
- And viewing on blu-ray
I really appreciate any help to the above questions. Big thanks!

Step 1: Capture settings are irrelevant for AVCHD on that camera. Just copy the entire folder structure intact to your hard drive. Pr will find the copied footage through the Media Browser panel. You may even be able to edit directly from the camera's HDD. You should try it and see.
Step 2: 1920x816 produces a 2.35:1 aspect ratio. Assuming all of your action occurs in the exact vertical center of the shot, then you should crop 132 pixels from top and bottom. Placing your 1080 footage into a custom progressive sequence of those dimensions should get you what you want, as long as you don't have Default scale to frame size selected in Preferences.
Step 3: This is the tough one. To get 24 fps out of 30 fps, one frame out of every 5 needs to be dropped. This will produce perceptually jerky playback, especially if any motion at all is present. So the remaining frames must be blended together in some way to smooth out the bump where the missing frame is. Using AE to accomplish this is, IMHO, the best solution for an all-CS4 workflow. In AE, you have 2 choices: Frame Mix and Pixel Motion. PM produces better results, but FM renders faster. If you haven't done any editing of the clips in Pr yet, then the best idea would be to convert all of the footage in AE before importing it into Pr. If you've already got edits in place in Pr, then you can select all of the clips in the sequence and choose File | Adobe Dynamic Link | Replace with After Effects Composition. Either way, each clip in AE must be individually interpreted to Separate Fields/Preserve Edges. The comp settings must be set to 24p. Then Frame Blending must be enabled for the comp, and finally, each Frame Blending Layer Switch must be set to either Frame Mix or Pixel Motion. If you do use Dynamic Link, be sure to turn *off* Frame Blending in Pr, because AE has already taken care of that.
Step 4: Because rendering will be so intensive and take so long, I recommend exporting an intermediate file from Pr, then re-importing that file to be used as the source for the various export formats. Otherwise, you'll have to render all over again for each individual export format. For web, I recommend Flash. For computer viewing, it depends on your delivery method (CD, DVD, Download, External Hard Drive, Flash Drive, etc.). For Blu-ray, either H.264 Blu-ray or MPEG2 Blu-ray.
-Jeff

How to get this kind of film look?!

How to get the film look like in this video:
I shoot on the canon 60d with multiple lenses.
Thanks.

Thanks for the answers, finally I've got the result. May be it'll be useful for other people:
So i've used one popular magic plugin for adjusting look with default presets and lowered fps with default effect "Posterize time".
Good luck

Film look and final presentation techniques

I have a feature film that is in the final stages of editing. I recently got the Final Cut Studio package with FCP 5, Studio Pro 4, Motion, Soundtrack, etc.
The movie was shot on DV and looks about as good as it could. I know there are a lot of 'film look' techniques out there, some of them work, some of them look terrible. Unfortunately I don't have the time to experiment at this point, so if anybody can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.
I also have a copy of Magic Bullet from a couple years ago, but I don't know much about the program. I'm pretty good about figuring these things out with a nudge, though.
Thanks.

Magic bullet does good stuff. There is a new version of that due out soon.
Also go to www.nattress.com and look at the Film Effects filters.
Cinelook is another route.
Welcome to the forums, BTW.
And it would be good if you could do a search for your topic next time, as this question comes up at least once daily, if not twice.

What Exactly Is Meant By "The Film Look"?

I have been puzzled by this expression for the past few years.
What IS a "Film Look"?
I started with cine (Super 8) exactly 30 years ago, so my thoughts whenever a "film look" is mentioned dwell on jerky movement, dull images, grain and scratches!
I am sure this is NOT what is meant - please tell me it isn't!
Is it connected with sharper images, purer colours and smoother movement obtainable with which - DV or film?
Ian.

I wonder if the very coy Mr Brown is trying to get to this point:
People who buy a consumer video camera who instantly expect their movie to look like Star Wars are struggling in vein. Inexpensive video gear allows people to express their creativity, not to get into the commercial film market. You cant compare low, or even medium level video to high end film
A professional videographer, who shot music videos for people like Leonard Cohen on video at a time where most high end music "videos" were still be shot on film explained it to me this way: He saw the essential difference as being one of gamma, of the ranger of light and shadow. See a movie shot in 35 mm black and white and compare that to a high end video in black and white ... you will see what the difference is
That being said, this camera man thought it was silly to try to use video to emulate motion picture film. He liked the use of video and with his exquisite lighting and use of filters, he created work so good looking you wanted to eat it.
Most people, I think, make movies with video because it is much cheaper and more accessible than film ... they have no idea what the video really is .. they watch Star Wars on their home TV and go .. well, thats what I want.
I have worked in the pro video world for 20 years, everything from local TV commericials to corporate video to weddings... my gear has ranged from 500 buck cameras to 15,000 cams ... and I have never tried to acheived the "film" look. My work is all about communication and video, with its clean, clear look and quick turnaround time, gives me that. I dont make "movies" nor do I have a desire to.
Friend of mine currently makes music videos with one of the Panny high end cameras, doing everything in 24p. No denying, it looks great. Is it "film" look?
Meet me in the balcony

Best settings for film based PAL to MPEG2?

There's a fair amount of useful information online regarding the best settings for film based NTSC footage export etc but I'm unable to find anything regarding the best Compressor settings for the export of MPEG2 from PAL video from a 25 frames per second film sourced master.
Can anybody help?

Okay, so after reading heaps of stuff on interlacing and progressive, my head is hurting. Since my 1080i50 Pal footage captures into Final cut interlaced and setting field dominance to NONE doesn't do much, I realise I need to de-interlace in an another application. Ken Stone has a great example of what to do in compressor though I dont have the current version (3) and am not sure how to reinterpret this for Compressor 2. I had a go without much luck. I am in the process of trying to use MPEG Streamclip to deinterlace and trying getting the right settings. Will see how that goes. I also have tried using JES deinterlacer but also wasnt sure about settings etc with this application either.
Which is the best to use and what settings should I set. I wish to use my footage for watching on our macs primarily and also from our mac server which is hooked up to our hdtv. I can then convert to other formats for iphones and web etc. But my main problem is this interlacing issue. I have a nice new HDV camera but it certainly isnt looking too much better atm than my old dv footage.
PLEASE help!

FXplug for Film Look

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