Gigaworks S750 Power Requirements

Hi,
I'm planning to purchase the Gigaworks S750 to use in my car, which I can link up to the X-Fi PCI Card I have in my car's computer system and I was wondering what the power requirments were.
Could someone please post details on the Gigaworks S750 power supply:-
Input and Output; Voltage, Current, Frequency and any other possible details.
Hopefully this system might be able to run of the power inverter I currently have installed, which takes 2V from the battery, converts it up to 240V then the PC and Power Supply for my current Inspire System converts it to the required amounts for input.
I was expecting to have to upgrade my power inverter, as it's only 600W constant and 800W at peaks. The PC System takes away around 250-350W leaving only 250-350W for the speaker system.
I expect I'll be upgrading to a KW Power Inverter, but if needed I can always go with the 2.5KW Inverter; just hope my cars alternator can produce enough juce.

Thanks for the info, that's all I needed to know. Looks like the Gigaworks S750 is going to need between 660W-720W of power, so a KW inverter should cover it.
I've considered using a car audio set-up, but they typicaly only have 2 channels. Atleast with the Gigaworks S750 I'll be able to expereince the full 7.1 surround sound experience. I'm probably not going to be going to keep my X-Fi card for long though, it's entertainment proccesor has gone faulty and I no longer have any Rear-Left sound for some strange reason? So I've switched it to the gaming mode proccesor for the time being and all channels are now working once again.
Personally, I think the X-Fi is too advanced for it's own good, so I'm going to RMA it and downgrade to a slightly less advanced 7.1 sound card, which hopefully won't encounter those sorts of problems. As I've done some re-search and people have had all kind's of problems with X-Fi sound cards.
Thanks for the recomendation though, but I find the computer far more usefull than any other car audio set-up's. I have wireless internet access which automattically connects to the nearest wireless access point, typically with-in 50 meters, using a 9Dbi antenna. The computer also has a DVD player, TV and FM Radio, a 60GB hard disk, a small touch screen LCD mounted on the dash, GPS with voice directions and many other random features which I personally would rather not do with out.

Similar Messages

Question about Creative GigaWorks S750 power supply

Hi,
was wondering does the GigaWorks S750 comes with voltage switch? will I be able to switch between 20v and 220v? or is there a possibility to send it back to creative and have it switch to 220-240 voltage? Thanks!
Chris

Chris,
I'm afraid not, the Gigaworks doesn't come with any voltage switch. You will probably need to check out some voltage transformer in this case.
Jason

I lost my GigaWorks S750 power cord

I recently moved and apparently lost the power cord for the subwoofer in the process. I have looked and looked and can't find where to purchase a replacement. Sorry if I'm uneducated, but where can I find a replacement power cord specifically for this speaker system?

Yea actually I did that and also found a thread on another forum that talked about fixing the subs on this system (which apparently seem to be made of cheap parts, how pleasing to know...) because they stop powering up alot. Spoke to a few individuals and they say the cords im using should work just fine (in much greater knowledged detail why). I put a non-contact power tester all over the unit while connecting a power cable and it goes off but it wont power up.
Sooooooooo what im left with is that somehow during transport to and from it decided to stop working... Going to try the open it up and use a blow dryer trick to get it to power up soon. Still bummed I cant find the original power cable so that all conditions can be as they were and I can be sure thats not why it wont work...

Gigawork S750 power on problem

Hello,
I have been experiencing problem when I power on the speakers. When I press the power button (on both controller or the box), the speakers may switch on then off and back on in a second of time. It seems like it was resetting itself and I need to set the volume again. It happens absolutely randomly...
What is wrong with my speakers?
Thanks,
Harry

I had the same problem out of the box and there are other posts with this problem. If the power light on the subwoofer stays on then your audio pod is faulty. Contract Creative customer support (make sure you fill in your adress, contact details etc. as this speeds up the process) and tell them what the problem is. They should respond telling you to send the pod back and they'll send a replacement. Mine came within about 4 days. Now it works fine.

Ideal power supply protection for gigaworks s750 speaker system

anyone please help me decide on what to buy to protect my gigaworks s750 speakers from power surges or instability.
actually, i'm confused with what to buy, AVR or UPS and what capacity, 500, 000 or 500 watts/va.. Here in our place, the power supply is not consistent that for such reason I feel the need to secure my s750 speakers, especially that it's quite expensive.
Also, does anyone know how much power (if i'm right, it's expressed in watts) the s750 consumes, assuming it operates continuously in one hour? Thanks in advance.

eomons wrote:
anyone please help me decide on what to buy to protect my gigaworks s750 speakers from power surges or instability.
actually, i'm confused with what to buy, AVR or UPS and what capacity, 500, 000 or 500 watts/va.. Here in our place, the power supply is not consistent that for such reason I feel the need to secure my s750 speakers,?especially that it's quite expensi've. Also, does anyone know?how much power (if i'm right, it's expressed in watts) the s750 consumes, assuming it operates continuously in one hour? Thanks in advance.
Just get a power surge protector will do.

Loss of sound with the Gigaworks S750 system

Hi,
I just recently purchased a Gigaworks S750 speaker system and I ran into a problem. Every-so-often, randomly, my entire system will just stop playing any sound. This last for a random amount of time (5 second to 30 mins). I've triple checked the wires and even taken the system down and re-set it up. I know it'ss not the sound card (recently purchased Audigy 2 ZS) and it'ss not the drivers (updated them many times). I know it'ss a problem with the speaker system itself as I split the signal from my soundcard out to both my headphones and my speakers and my headphones continue to work during the outages. When I plug my headphones into the jack on the control unit of the S750 during an outage, the sound plays through them. Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Riley
Message Edited by RileyKash on 02-02-2005 02:28 AM
Message Edited by RileyKash on 02-02-2005 02:28 AM

It turns out that I was wrong about one thing, once the USB port on the right side of my computer stops working for the US-122, it seems to shut down until I restart the computer. I thought that it worked after the US-122 went down and was unplugged because another device will receive power from the port when plugged in. It turns out that although the new device will power up, it won't be recognized by the computer. I appreciate any help or ideas. Thanks.
---Will.

X-Fi Fatality Champion + Creative Gigaworks S750 7.1 Speakers + Vista x

Current Computer specs:
Vista Ultimate x64 Retail
Core 2 Quad Q6600
GeForce 8800GTX
6GB RAM
X-Fi Fatality Champion (basically a platinum with Xram)
Gigaworks S750 7. speakers.
I have the above computer, with the latest (Oct st 07) X-Fi drivers.
I cannot set the card to 7. output mode. The option doesn't appear in the windows sound config, and if set in the Creative Audio Console it just switches itself down to 5. instantly.
Any known solution?

Step : Power down computer.
Step 2: Remove Creative card.
Step 3: Install competitor's sound card.
Creative's drivers are known to have issues in systems with 4GB or more of RAM. The Oct st drivers are probably the worst choice, so far. You could try the Auzentech drivers, but there is no guarantee it will fix your issue.
http://forum.stage.creative.com/showthread.php?t=24495
You will probably need THX console from your installation CD to remap your speakers.

Power requirements of HP LaserJet Pro P1606dn Printer

Hello,
I had bought this printer from USA and brought it to India.
Now I've a question that whether this printer will work with a 240v of power input ??
Cause in USA HP website it is mentioned that it will work with a 110-volt input voltage: 110 to 127 VAC (+/- 10%), 60 Hz (+/- 2 Hz), 7 A; 220-volt input voltage: 220 to 240 VAC (+/- 10%), 50 Hz (+/- 2 Hz), 4 A
It can be seen over here : http://www.shopping.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/Printers/HP-LaserJet/CE749A?HP-LaserJet-Pro-...
In India's Product page also it is mentioned same.It can be seen over here : http://www8.hp.com/in/en/products/printers/product-detail.html?oid=4110411#!tab%3Dspecs
Moreover on the back of the printer power requirements are given 110-127V ~AC.The pic of it can be seen over here: http://www.storemyfile.org/getfile.php?id=5724&key=4e7b6c045
So I'm in dilemma that whether this printer is a multivoltage printer (i.e. 110v to 220v) or not?
Pls. give me clarification about this so that I can start using the Printer ASAP.
Thanks

Welcome to the HP Forums RockmihiR91,
I read your post and see that you would like to know if the printer supports 240v.
I can help you with this.
Yes, you can use the printer on the 240v, but you will need a power outlet adapter and you will need
the adapter so it will fit the receptacle and converter.
It is not internally on the printer.
Hope this helps.
Have a wonderful day!
Thank You.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks” for helping!
Gemini02
I work on behalf of HP

PC Component power requirements on a KT3 Ultra-ARU: ANSWERS - At last

G'Day Folk,
First, my PC specs are as below in my sig.
Second, I know this is an old motherboard, but I would like to keep it going, and make the best of it for another year or so. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and would help two other users!
Symptoms:
Minor stability and performance issues, mostly in games, simulators, or doing high resolution photographics processing. I bought three machines with similar specs in 2002, for my brother, father, and myself. Each has had some hard to nail down, intermittent problems. My brother's PC has had a new motherboard and processor after failure of the KT3, but still has some niggling problems. He also has an XP 2600+ running at 65C !
More recently I have been able to reliably reproduce graphics problems in Empire Earth II, Serious Sam, and Halo. Specifically, I can create the problem in an Empire Earth II game by running a saved game and looking at a specific spot on the map. The screen shows tearing, and eventually goes black, returning to normal dispaly when I move to a different part of the map. In certain Halo games I could cause the problem by looking in a specific direction. I assume this is because what is being displayed is using different or more graphics processing features, although it is not apparent what they may be from the content of the view.
Being able to reliably reproduce the problem allowed me to actually analyse the cause.
Diagnosis:
After upgrading all drivers, and trying everything I could think of, as well as everything I could find on the web, especially in this forum, I have narrowed the problem down to the power supply. The clincher for me is that when I create the problem the 3.3Volt power supply line (rail) drops to as low as 2.45Volts! The +5V line also fluctuates and drops as low as 4.81Volt. This was measured using MBM5 and MBM5 Log. The usual voltages reported by MBM5 at idle are +3.3V rail = 2.99 to 3.01 Volt, +5V rail = 4.92 to 4.95 Volt.
Okay, so the +5V rail stays in spec (just), but the +3.3V rail is out of spec (+/- 5%) even at idle. It should be at least 3.135Volt.
I checked the voltages with and without the problem using an analogue volt meter, as software voltage readings are often low. The volt meter is a little slow to respond to the voltage fluctuations, but did confirm that at idle the +3.3V rail was less than 3.1Volt (out of spec), and with the problem occuring, dropped at least to 2.8Volt.
As you can see below my power supply should be able to handle all I throw at it. Topower isn't the greatest brand, but it does receive "satisfactory" in reviews on Tom's Hardware and such. I suspect it (and my brother's and father's) has always been weak, although age, or more powerful games may be highlighting the problem.
Solution:
Get a new power supply.
Not so simple these days, particularly if you want to upgrade in the future, with the move to powering components using the 12Volt rail. I want a power supply that will power my current +3.3V and +5V hungry motherboard, plus future 12V requirements, if possible. So I am doing a Power Audit of my PC, hence . . .
Questions:
I have collected power requirements for most of my components in Ampere by supply voltage. However, details are hard to lock down. I'll jump straight into specific questions.
1. The Athlon XP 2100+ draws a maximum of 89.9Watts into the Voltage Regulator Module (VRM), which converts it to the CPU supply voltage of 1.75Volt. (About 51Amps. Ouch!) If this is sourced from the +12V rail as suggested by the AMD Athlon Desktop Builders Guide, then this would be 7.49Amp, and would not effect the +3.3V and +5V rails unless the total power capacity of the supply is being exceeded. However, the CPU power source was changed from the +3.3V and +5V lines to the +12V lines around the time of the XP2100+. I don't know what MSI did on my motherboard.
Can anyone confirm which voltage rail is used to power the XP 2100+ on the KT3 Ultra ARU motherboard?
2. I have found average power usages for motherboards of around 25 Watt on many web sites, but can't confirm the power used by the KT3. Does anyone know the maximum current (Amps) for each voltage rail from the power supply for this motherboard?
3. Memory power requirements also vary a lot on the web. I'm using 10Watt each on the +3.3V rail for two sticks of 512MB DDR Corsair. Can anybody confirm this, for the KT3? (10W per stick seems to have been the standard since 128MB sticks came out!)
4. I have a GeForce 4 Ti 4600 AGP graphics card. (Okay, it's not an MSI, but the power should be similar across brands.) There are several threads that suggest that this card uses lots of +3.3V and +5V power from the AGP slot. (Wonkanoby?) However, none give actual Amps for each rail. Anybody know?
5. In case anybody knows, I can't find actual power for an Audigy 2 ZS either. Any suggestions?
As modern power supplies tend to have reduced +3.3V and +5V capacity in favour of +12V, I need to be pretty sure of the actual requirements on these rails before buying a new supply. I could just "go and by the biggest Antec I can find and don't worry about it", but I might find that it has the same problems my existing one does.
All help greatly appreciated. Selection of a new PSU could fix three PCs, mine, my brother's, and my father's.
PS: My apologies to those I told that this was a great power supply. Well, it has great specs, and the problems observed couldn't be tied to it until recently. Bummer really.
PPS: Sorry for the long post, but it's an interesting, and important topic, isn't it?
UPDATE: See post on 1st March, 2006 for response from vendors and updated table of component requirements.
Here is a copy of my signature in case I change it in the future, just for context.
MSI KT3 Ultra ARU (MS-6380E V1.0), AMI BIOS 5.7
AMD Athlon XP 2100+ Palomino 1.73GHz @13 x 133 FSB
2x Corsair CMX-512-3000C2 512MB 2-2-2-5-1T @333MHz
Leadtek GeForce4 Ti 4600 Winfast A250 Ultra MyVIVO 128MB (AGP)
Creative Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS
2x WD Caviar WD1200JB 120GB 7200RPM 8MB Cache,
each drive enclosed in a Scythe Silent Box Heatlane HDD Enclosure
CD&DVD Plextor PX320A & Pioneer DVR-A09P
Topower PSU 470W PFC 3.3+5V=235W +3.3V/26A, +5V/47A, +12V/28A
mCubed T-Balancer Fan Controller,
multiple quiet fans: Zalman, SilenX, Panaflo, Lian Li blower
Zalman CNPS6000-Cu & ZM-NB32J NB HS
~ 10-20C over ambient
Lian-Li PC-60 Case, WinXP ProSP2+

Try the link below, this will tell you what you need. After you added all you hardware and get the final power result add 50% to this and you will have the proper size P/S needed for your system. You can even make a list of future upgrades you want to do and that way you can see what P/S will work for you now in the present and what you would need in the future, just remember to add 50% to what ever total you add up.
For example, if the P/S calculator says you have a total draw of 279W then you would add 50% to this;
279+50%=418.5
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp
Below I have pasted a piece that I made for determing P/S which may help you to;
Resets are a P/S issue and lock-ups are most likely due to your graphic card, with that said I will give you a table with which you can determine the proper P/S for your system and a little info just for info.
I must also add that never trust software to tell you your voltages, this includes the BIOs as the BIOs is just a piece of software. To properly check the voltage one must use a digi-VOM.
A 7200rpm HD draws around 20 watts, this 20 watts includes both the 5v & 12V rail.
HD and CD's generally are figured at 2 Amps per device, let’s brake this down some.
Spin-up: 12V x 1.3A + 5V x 650mA = 19W
Read/Write/Idle: 12V x 350mA + 5V x 700mA = 7.75W
Seek: 12V x 675mA + 5V x 725mA = 12W
Those would be typical for a 7200 rpm IDE drive. As you can see a HD requires more power at start-up then during actual operation. This is why sometimes a PC takes a few tries to start up before it will actually make a successful boot and once it boots to windows all seems well or sometimes a occasional restart, which would indicate a weak/ bad P/S.
Now to find the power used by the CPU you can check either AMD or Intel for the spec sheets on that CPU or you can follow this link that has tons of CPU ratings, CPU specs.
Some more basic mathematics… When a 12-volt circuit is drawing 10 amps, it is consuming 120 WATTS of electrical power. 12 Volts X 10 Amps = 120 WATTS.
This is the formula: P = E x I
P - Watt (power)
E – Voltage (electrical pressure)
I – Amperage (current flow)
Serial/PS-2 ports draw <35mA and if you have USB ports then they have a maximum of 500mA per port, again only if they are used- no use means no draw.
The PCI slots are allowed 5A of the +5V, 0.5A of the +12V and 7.6A of the 3.3V Max per slot, again that is if the slots are used. So if the serial ports, PS-2 and USB ports are being used you are looking at around 5A draw on the MB, which would be around 20 Watts.
So now we can add things up. (This is just an example of a basic system)
MB=20W
CPU= 60W, used as a norm.
HD=20W
CDRW=25W
DVD=20W
Graphic card=15W / newer GF4 and ATI 9000 and up= 35W
RAM 10 Watts per 128 MB
Network Card 5 Watts
Average per PCI Card 8 Watts
Total around 200W for this example.
Now this will fall on different rails and that is were things get tricky, because as you see in my above break down of the HD that a HD use's both the 12V & 5V rail. This is why it is important that the 12V rail be at least 18 Amps if you plan on having more then 1 HD and case fans. Then you have the 3.3V & 5V rails that need to be strong too, the 3.3v rail is actually not so important with newer DDR MB and today’s CPU’s as it is mainly supplying the PS-2 ports power as well as some device cards. Most newer MB use the 5v and 12v rails mainly to supply the demands of today’s devices.
Now this 200W is the bare min what is needed for things to run but in the real world you will want to add 50% to the 200W for your min P/S need, this allows room for spikes and heavy demands and a little head room to add hardware in the future.

Creative Labs What Is Wrong With Your Manufacturing!!!??!?! RE: Gigaworks S750, XFI e

Ok this is a straight forward RANT! In building my new computer I decided to let Creative be my folks for sound since I've always been impressed with the EAX and surround sound, the first time I played EQ in 4. 3D sound on a first gen SBLi've card I was in awe. I've bought so many speakers and sound cards since and been happy. So I decide with my new computer I will buy the XFI Fatality, Progamer headphones with mic, and the Gigaworks s750 7. speakers. Well I got the headphones and the sound card first, right off the headphones left side sounded blown out to me, so I sent them back, and the new pair worked fine. The XFI card became the issue next I had the cracking and popping noises, I made a few tweaks and was able to kill most of it, but I have 4 gigs of Ram and when I turn on the memory hole in the bios so that XP Pro 64 can see the 4 gigs brings back the popping noises. So I have to turn of 2 gigs of ram that cost me over $300 so I don't have nasty noise when I play games. Oh yea and I sent the card back as well in hopes I'd get a repaired one.... No Such Luck... So then I get to my speakers, the left rear channel is making a sound like a blown speaker so I swap the plug with another channel and its fine and the other speaker in that channel makes the noise, so I send back the sub as a RMA at a cost of $30 to me (not like giving them $800+ for broken stuff isn't bad enough... nothing like salt on the wound.) So after 2 weeks of no sound other than headphones for my gaming, I get my sub back, I hook it up and.... Now the left rear channel is totally DEAD. So now I'm PISSED, I call up and hold it together when talking to the RMA folks. They offer to send me a whole new set of speakers, so I'm thinking cool, maybe its in a cable or the box or something.... Today I get home from work and see the box, I'm like sweet new stuff and spend a good hour carefully rewiring my whole desk with the new speakers and cables. Get it all hooked up and click on the sound test for the 7. and........ The Side Left Channel is DEAD WTF!!!!!!
!!! All I can say is it sucks there is no real competition for sound against Creative, because they know their product will be the demand and if they put out a poorly manufactured item they can get away with only so many people will even bother RMAing and will just li've with it thinking they did something wrong. I am truly disturbed by this trend and can only hope that after I actually get everything working in 6 months or so if they ever fix the noise issue with XFI and maybe a few more RMAs of my sub to get one they TEST before sending it to me... I hate to say it but I think next comp I build I'm going to have to start looking at other sound companies. Its sad to lose faith in a company you hold in such high regards for so long as pioneers. Thanks for reading, oh and CL support persons that like to pop into a message and post an idea that most anyone with an IQ over 3 would have tried in the first 5 minutes of troubleshooting only to never revist the thread because your goal is the create the illusion of support on the boards by making a certain number of posts regardless for image sake, don't bother responding since due to my past experience with your phone support I know more about your products than most of you... Oh and your database of issues/fixes doesn't count as knowledge its the results of your customers helping each other with issues and you all pool the fixes they come up with confirm them, and post them as?fixes. I wont rule out a couple of them your crack teams might stumble across like the first guy that discovered that touching electrical wires is bad and put shielding on them, well maybe the guy that found him did it.... Rant off =)

I'll close this thread as I don't think any good discussion can come from it, I think you just wanted to get your point across so I'll leave the thread here but closed, and will pass on specific feedback from it.
I do not see any reason for you to attack the moderators. As we have already stated (and is detailed in the announcement at the top of each board), we are here to make sure the board stays running and people do not post inappropriate content (and abide by the rules), we are not here to provide support. We may post sometimes with advice people could try, but we not trying to create any illusion that support is offered on this board, as it isn't. That is what Customer Support is for.
Cat

Creative Labs What Is Wrong With Your Manufacturing!!!??!?! RE: Gigaworks S750, XFI etc.

Ok this is a straight forward RANT! In building my new computer I decided to let Creative be my folks for sound since I've always been impressed with the EAX and surround sound, the first time I played EQ in 4.1 3D sound on a first gen SBLive card I was in awe. I've bought so many speakers and sound cards since and been happy. So I decide with my new computer I will buy the XFI Fatality, Progamer headphones with mic, and the Gigaworks s750 7.1 speakers. Well I got the headphones and the sound card first, right off the headphones left side sounded blown out to me, so I sent them back, and the new pair worked fine. The XFI card became the issue next I had the cracking and popping noises, I made a few tweaks and was able to kill most of it, but I have 4 gigs of Ram and when I turn on the memory hole in the bios so that XP Pro 64 can see the 4 gigs brings back the popping noises. So I have to turn of 2 gigs of ram that cost me over $300 so I don't have nasty noise when I play games. Oh yea and I sent the card back as well in hopes I'd get a repaired one.... No Such Luck... So then I get to my speakers, the left rear channel is making a sound like a blown speaker so I swap the plug with another channel and its fine and the other speaker in that channel makes the noise, so I send back the sub as a RMA at a cost of $30 to me (not like giving them $800+ for broken stuff isn't bad enough... nothing like salt on the wound.) So after 2 weeks of no sound other than headphones for my gaming, I get my sub back, I hook it up and.... Now the left rear channel is totally DEAD. So now I'm PISSED, I call up and hold it together when talking to the RMA folks. They offer to send me a whole new set of speakers, so I'm thinking cool, maybe its in a cable or the box or something.... Today I get home from work and see the box, I'm like sweet new stuff and spend a good hour carefully rewiring my whole desk with the new speakers and cables. Get it all hooked up and click on the sound test for the 7.1 and........ The Side Left Channel is DEAD WTF!!!!!!
!!! All I can say is it sucks there is no real competition for sound against Creative, because they know their product will be the demand and if they put out a poorly manufactured item they can get away with only so many people will even bother RMAing and will just live with it thinking they did something wrong. I am truly disturbed by this trend and can only hope that after I actually get everything working in 6 months or so if they ever fix the noise issue with XFI and maybe a few more RMAs of my sub to get one they TEST before sending it to me... I hate to say it but I think next comp I build I'm going to have to start looking at other sound companies. Its sad to lose faith in a company you hold in such high regards for so long as pioneers. Thanks for reading, oh and CL support persons that like to pop into a message and post an idea that most anyone with an IQ over 3 would have tried in the first 5 minutes of troubleshooting only to never revist the thread because your goal is the create the illusion of support on the boards by making a certain number of posts regardless for image sake, don't bother responding since due to my past experience with your phone support I know more about your products than most of you... Oh and your database of issues/fixes doesn't count as knowledge its the results of your customers helping each other with issues and you all pool the fixes they come up with confirm them, and post them as fixes. I wont rule out a couple of them your crack teams might stumble across like the first guy that discovered that touching electrical wires is bad and put shielding on them, well maybe the guy that found him did it.... Rant off =)

Duplicate thread.
Cat

How to use GigaWorks S750 to my laptop??? HELP!!

Hi
I'm having trouble with finding the right and best solution to connect my GigaWorks S750 to my laptop.
I havent got enough outputs on my laptop (my system needs 7.1).
I need a solution so i can use all 8 speakers. Maybe a external soundcard or something like that?
Please be kind and help me if you know a good solution. Thanks!
Danni

Belindasue01, welcome to the forum.
When requesting help you should always include the make/model (i.e. p6-xxxx) of the computer and/or monitor. This information is necessary for us to review the specifications of them.
Signature:
HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
++++++++++++++++++
**Click the Thumbs Up+ to say 'Thanks' and the 'Accept as Solution' if I have solved your problem.**
Intelligence is God given; Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!
I am not an HP employee.

Connecting DVD-Player with GigaWorks S750

I'm going to buy a GigaWorks S750 system. Will I need an extra decoder like the DDTS-100 when I want to connect the soundsystem with the Computer (with Audigy 2 ZS Platinum Pro) and one of these things: DVD-Player, Radio, Walkman?
Thank's for your answers!

No, I wouldn't bother. You can connect both radio and walkman to two of the line-in sockets on the Audigy's external hub. A DVD player can be connected using the coax or optical inputs. One thing you can't do with the Audigy 2 is use Dolby Pro Logic II for PS2 games. If you don't have a PS2 to connect then, that's not really a problem.

Different power requirements between 3G and newer iPods?

Can anyone inform me as to whether there is any input power
requirement difference between the 3G and newer "dock connector" iPods? I'm wondering why Griffin Tech sells a PowerPod car power cord for the 3G and earlier dock models and a PowerJolt for the 4G and 5G dock models and Shuffle. If there is no power difference, I'd like to buy the PowerJolt, and use it for both my 3G dock model and my Shuffle, without buying 2 different car power adapters. Any light that can be
shed on this subject would be greatly appreciated.
iMac Mac OS X (10.2.x) iPod 3G and 1G shuffle

I answered my own question. I found my 3 year old owner's manual and found the page where it noted that the iPod will NOT charge the battery when connected via USB to dock cable. Concluding that I probably would not damage my iPod, I tried connecting the PowerJolt, and, as suspected, the iPod does NOT charge. The Griffin Tech solution for vehicle power for the 3G iPod REQUIRES PowerPod.
iMac Mac OS X (10.2.x) iPod 3G and 1Gb shuffle

Is this a genuine gigaworks s750 system?

A little over a month ago I purchased a GigaWorks S750 system from Dell, which arrived in a regular brown box with Creative's logo, pictures of the S750 and black writing on it. It looks fine. Recently however, I observed that all the pictures I ever saw of the S750 always showed the shipping package as a multi-colored box. Plus, some of the wording on the box I received are a bit different from what are on the multi-colored box.
Just out of curiosity, I e-mailed Creative about this and they replied stating that all S750 systems are indeed shipped in Creative's multi-colored box (orange/white with blue writing on it). They advised that I should contact Dell about this since Dell might have shipped me a refurbished S750 system.
I contacted Dell by telephone about what Creative had said and they told me that first of all, they do not refurbish third party products and second, although I ordered the product from Dell, the S750 was actually shipped from Creative's warehouse. (Product was actually shipped from a company named Tech Data Corp., Technology Drive, Swedesboro, NJ 08085. Country of origin: China. Manufactured date: 0/28/05).
Please note that I have not even hooked up the system yet. In view of the innumerable amount of problems people are having with the S750, I think I should first get some explanation about this discrepancy.
Am I the only one this has happened to I need to know whether this is a genuine GigaWorks S750 system or is it a fake, a refurbished set or whatever. I really need to know just to put my mind at ease.
JC

JC,
I have seen S700 and S750's shipped in brown boxes so I would not worry. It may be that since these were for a third party a brown box was decided on as the packaging. I am not aware of any "fake" S750's so I think you are safe.
Jeremy

Gigaworks S750 Power Requirements

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