Green Screen Camera Settings and other questions...

Hoping you guys can help me out :-)
I have a Sony AX2000 HD camera and am a wanna-be pro. I've been trying to perfect my green screen operation. I think I have the lighting down and can play around with PE8 green screen or chroma key effect to my satisfaction. My problem is that I am very dissatisfied with the video quality. I'm shooting at full HD 1920x1080 resolution, and although the AVCHD video that my camera creates is awesome, when I create my final product, the video is awful.
This project is for online viewing mostly, although I need to provide DVD's too. I do not need HD, but assumed shooting in HD and reducing it down MUST be better than shooting in standard DV mode. I guess I assumed wrong? (Just been reading this - http://forums.adobe.com/thread/593946?tstart=0)
I'm also wondering about my camera settings. I had everything on auto, but I read somewhere using the manual focus, and turning down the gain helps - especially with the first problem I had which was noise. Actually, I improved this some with lighting, but blacks in particular seemed "noiser" than I found acceptable...
The other problem I have is fast movement. If my subject is throwing their arms around at any decent pace, even creating a high definition MPEG give me some terrible motion blur... then I realized even just creating a HD MPEG of the original video without the chromakey effect gives me sub standard quality, compared to the original AVCHD file. After searching this forum, I think I might have found the problem. I need to check my project settings to make sure they match the source files... I'll post again once I've tried this and let you guys know if it works...
Any other tips/thoughts out there?

OK - I discovered today that I was in fact using the wrong presets in Premier Elements. Rectifying that little detail gave me MUCH improved ouput - both for the MPEGS and even the standard DVD (although it still has the "home made" look to it rather than the TV clarity I would expect, it's a million times better than what I had).
Now I understand the basics of presets, I also discovered I wasn't using the best my camera had to offer either. I had it set to HD 1080 60i HQ – I found out the HQ translates to approx 9mbps (when this can be increased to 24mbps by using the FX option) - also the HQ was also giving me 1440x1080 resolution (when the FX could take me up to 1920x1080). So, I'm hoping for even better results tomorrow.
So, here are todays questions:
1.) The 60i part of the preset. Presumably the higher the frame rate the better, but how about the progressive v. interlacing - ie. is one better than the other for chroma key? Or does the fact that I'm going to be using this for web viewing (F4V format) and DVD's affect this decision?
2.) I took Steve's advice and downloaded Premier Pro. Immediately I came up against a problem. It seems like I don't have a suitable preset to choose. Further, when I tried to import my files directly from the camera's memory stick, it said they weren't supported. Adobe say the trial version is without limits, so any idea what the problem is here?

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Often when this type of thing occurs with missing default apps it is due to a situation where you are unable to 'see' the apps. If you will go to your front display of your device go to settings>General>Reset>Reset Home Screen layout.
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Make an appointment at the genius bar of your local Apple Store. The phone has a 1 year warranty. If it's no longer under warranty, a replacement is $269.

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If you cannot remember the passcode, you will need to restore your device using the computer with which you last synced it. This allows you to reset your passcode and resync the data from the device (or restore from a backup).
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http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1808

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Crossover Settings Confusion and Other Questions

Equipment is as follows:
- LG 55-inch 55LH90 LED TV
- Denon AVR-590 A/V Receiver
- Klipsch HD 500 5.1 Speakers
- DirecTV High Def Satellite Receiver/DVR
Long story very short is that I hit a button on the receiver remote about two weeks ago, unknowingly changing the existing audio settings to something along the lines of Matrix or Direct or Stereo. I'm not one to fool with trying to customize settings on equip. like this... I usually just use the very basic functionality in controlling the equipment, as that's why I paid money 1.5 years ago to have everything professionally installed and calibrated.
Upon accidentally hitting that remote control button, my audio went to pot, was very muffled, volume was minimal, sound was hissy, etc. Sounded like I was listening to $15 speakers.
Had no idea what had happened, didn't want to fool with trying to figure it out myself, contacted the receiver manufacturer to explain what had happened, they recommended immediately that I reset the receiver and thought the processor had locked up. Did the reset and that of course unfortunately scrapped all of my custom calibration settings that the installers had configured a year and a half ago. Sound still not improved. Recommended that I send the receiver in for repair. I held off for a few days on doing that and finally found the likely cause / solution on a message board, clicked the same button on the remote that I'd likely clicked by accident a few weeks earlier, and the sound was back to a more normal level.
However, now I'm left without all of those custom calibrations via the Audyssey stuff that was erased, and I'm lost as can be as to how to get our system sounding like it did prior to all of this happening approx. 2 weeks ago.
I'm lost on the crossover frequency settings and what they should be, what the dials on the rear of the subwoofer should be set at, what the crossover settings for the front / center / rear surround speakers should be, etc.
I ran the Audyssey configuration using the supplied microphone that came with the receiver, but the resulting sound just still doesn't sound at all like it did originally after the installers did all of the setup / configuration back in Aug. 2009.
Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my front L/R speakers to 120 HZ. Audyssey sets the crossover level of my center channel to 110 Hz. Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my rear L/R surround speakers to 120 Hz. In what I seem to remember is the "bass management" area of the receiver settings, the crossover for the subwoofer is set at 80 Hz. I believe another setting for the subwoofer is LFE+Main, too.
With the above in mind, I have no idea at all (1) if the crossover values are appropriate for the various speakers and the subwoofer in the mix to distribute high/mid/low sounds appropriately between the speakers and the sub, (2) I have no idea what the "Level" knob on the rear of the subwoofer should be set to (values range from Min to Max), (3) I have no idea what the LowPass (Hz) knob on the rear of the subwoofer (ranges from 80 to 100) should be set to, and am just very confused / frustrated that with the accidental click of a button on the receiver remote 2 wks. ago and then Denon's tech support recommending the most drastic solution to this issue in resetting the receiver's processor and erasing all of the custom Audyssey settings. I'm left with very sub-par sound as a result of all of this and can't seem to get the re-run Audyssey calibration routine to get my system back to sounding as phenomenal / balanced as it did for nearly 1.5 years straight after the initial setup / calibration of everything back in Aug. 2009 by the Best Buy professional installers.
Any explanations of what the crossover settings for all of my speakers and subwoofer, knob settings on the rear of the subwoofer should be (in general, mind you, as I know all situations / environments / listening preferences are different), or any other helpful recommendations are GREATLY appreciated. I'm very frustrated that Denon's tech support didn't first have me see if I had accidentally adjusted the sound properties via the remote via an accidental button click as opposed to taking my receiver back to square one. I'm not a technical master of this stuff and have no idea what I'm doing wrong in trying to get everything back to sounding like the great system it used to sound like.
Thanks in advance for any clearly-explained suggestions / recommendations on all of this. My last resort is to contact Best Buy and pay them to come back out to re-calibrate everything themselves if I can't figure out where my calibration settings / adjustments are wrong.

As I said in my first post in your other thread "you changed a setting the receiver and speakers are fine" <- not word for word but close to what I said LOL. I knew from what you described thats what it had to be. I do have a concern about the phase issues and the distance readings but that could be placement of mic or if your speakers are facing straight out instead of being slightly faced inward. May I ask where did you place the mic and was it on a tripod? I suggest either borrowing or buying a camcorder tripod for this. I answered your questions below in blue.
Also before ever doing a reset on any piece of equipment check the internet for some ideas as it could save you a lot of headaches.
bmccollum wrote:
Okay... stayed up late last night running through the Audyssey calibration routine. Took several tries at the calibration routine, as it kept on coming back saying I had phase issues with various speakers (it bounced around between telling me the phase issues were with the Front Left, the Front Right, and the Center Channel). I just kept on re-running Audyssey until it finally ceased telling me some of the speakers had phasing issues.
Before I continue, I can't thank you enough again for reading through my posts and offering your suggestions... really do appreciate the assistance!
While I'm thinking about it, I determined why the sound qualities / volume / etc. got so poor all of a sudden about 2-3 weeks ago. I apparently accidentally hit one of the buttons on the receiver remote that changed the sound setup from whatever it had been set on forever to something like "Virtual" or "Direct" or "Stereo" or something like that, as opposed to Dolby Digital or whatever it had been set on forever. I unfortunately went through the recommended Microprocessor Reset procedure on the receiver per their tech support's recommendation & that's why I lost all of the original Audyssey calibrated settings from August 2009, when all along, I could've just resolved the audio issues if I'd known that I'd accidentally clicked a button on the receiver remote, and had known I just needed to re-click another button to get the audio back to what it was normally set on. Here are the results that were set by the Denon AVR-590 via the Audyssey calibration. Note: Before beginning the Audyssey calibration process, I had the volume level knob on the rear of the sub itself turned halfway to the 12 o'clock position, and the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub turned all the way to the right (I believe 160 was the value). I ultimately turned the volume knob on the rear of the sub to about the 10 o'clock position as I re-ran the Audyysey calibration multiple times, as the dB values being shown for the sub were coming back at - 12.0 db or close to that with the sub volume set at the 12 o'clock position. The sub dB value got closer to the desired 0 dB value (as shown below) with the sub volume knob set to the 10 o'clock position.
* Speaker Configuration Check    *
- Front Speaker                 Small
- Center Speaker              Small
- Subwoofer                       Yes
- Surround Speaker         Small
- S. Back (Preout)             None
* Distance Check                 *
- Front Left                         0.1 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) is the speaker facing slightly in
- Front Right                       1.3 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) "  it should be                             "
- Center                               14.7 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Subwoofer                       16.3 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Surround Left                 8.0 ft                     (this seems accurate)
- Surround Right               8.7 ft                     (this seems accurate)
* Channel Level Check            *
- Front Left                         + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Center                               + 2.5 dB
- Front Right                       + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Surround Right               + 2.0 dB
- Surround Left                 + 2.5 dB
- Subwoofer                       - 2.0 dB
* Crossover Frequency Check      *
- Front                                  60 Hz                    (seems low... not sure...) Set to 80 hz
- Center                               120 Hz                   (seems reasonable... not sure...)you can leave it or set it to 80 hz
- Surround                          150 Hz                   (seems high... not sure...) again leave it or set it to 120 or 80 hz
- S. Back                               None
Okay, I've made the following minor adjustments thus far post-Audyssey calibration, as noted below:
- SW Mode:                        LFE+Main set to LFE only
- LPF for LFE:                      120 Hz
- Sub Volume Knob         Left sitting around the 10-11 o'clock position on rear of sub
- LowPass Knob                                Left sitting at max setting to the right on rear of sub (I believe value is 160)
- Front Left                         15.1 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 0.1 ft
- Front Right                       15.3 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 1.3 ft.
So there we are... ANY additional insight you may have on any of the values I've reported to you and whether or not they seem reasonable or completely out of whack is greatly appreciated. My main concerns/questions are the various Crossover Freqency values set by Audyssey and whether or not they should likely be manually adjusted by me to better utilize/distribute the sound between the various speakers / sub, and secondly, why/how did Audyssey so incorrectly set the distance of my Front Left & Front Right speakers and was it likely wise of me to have set them to what they should be w/a new distance setting now of around 15 ft. for each of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
Here are my questions in a nutshell now. I'm probably overanalyzing things now since having experienced this audio issue a few weeks ago and now I'm prob. hyper-sensitive to all aspects of the home theater sound I have at present.
(1) Why do commercials seem to have expanded sound using all speakers whereas just you plain ol' TV programs seem to use fewer speakers and just mainly the center channel aside from some occasional applause and such coming out of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
The commercials are most likely broadcast in stereo instead of surround sound. The receiver will switch from dolby digital to stereo and you won't even notice it except for the sound.
(2) Why would I hit the "STD" button on the receiver remote to choose Dolby Digital vs. when
to hit the "SIMU" button on the receiver remote to select "5 Channel Stereo" or other options via that "SIMU" button?5 Channel stereo is just that, Its 2 channel stereo being output through all 5 channels. It is not 5 channel surround. Standard give you Dolby digital, Prologic II etc. Simulation gives you 5 channel stereo, Matrix, Hall and the other simulated surrounds. You want to hit the standard button.
(3) On rear of subwoofer, I've set the LowPass knob all the way to the right, assuming that the "LFE +Main" and "LPF for LFE = 120Hz" settings override the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub, therefore having that knob turned all the way to the right to allow the settings for the sub in the receiver itself to control the LowPass / Crossover stuff. Correct. As long as the sub accepts LFE signals the receiver will send anything lower than 120hz directly to the sub. If not that is why you are setting it to the highest setting.
(4) With Audyssey Crossover Frequencies set as shown above, are these reasonable/appropriate values to where all speakers are utilized properly for the equipment I have in distributing all low/mid/high frequencies appropriate between the various speakers / sub without audio drops and so forth? The Crossover Frequency stuff is probably the most confusing part of all of this to me.
Again, I can't thank you enough for your help and any additional recommendations you can make regarding my situation.

Newbie photographer, question about in-camera settings and RAW

I have a Nikon D200, and I can make a wealth of in-camera settings that would greatly mitigate the amount of post-production processing that I would have to do. Nikon's own RAW Capture NX software reads these settings. I'm assuming that Aperture doesn't read (most) of them (with, perhaps, the exception of White Balance, and maybe Hue). Is there a reference somewhere of what in-camera settings are preserved by Aperture on a RAW import?
Thanks in advance,
Mark Taber

It's a pretty safe assumption that no raw editor except the OEM version will remember the in-camera settings, aside from white balance.
Why's that? Because those settings don't really do anything anyway - they are just advance instructions for the converter.

Camera Settings and Printing -off topic

Hi Everyone;
My teenage cousin is going on a trip to Europe for a few weeks and she will be taking alot of digital pictures with her Canon point & shoot camera ( 5 MP SD30), but will not be able to unload her images from the SD card. She already has Three Cards totaling 1.5 GBs and does not want to buy more.
So in order to increase the number images the card will hold, do you recommend lowering the resolution OR lowering the image quality by increasing the JPEG compression in the camera settings, for the purposes of printing ? ( obviously not all her images, but she may want to have some for her school yearbook, friends etc ).
This is a question I have asked myself with my own digital cameras, over the years, if i have to shoot JPEG i usually have the settings to MAX resolution and Lowest compression, in case i want to print some.
Also what would you recommend as the lowest resolution setting (in general, with any camera) if you want to print the following sizes?
4 X 6
5 X 7
8 X 10 or US Letter
Thanks in advance, and i realize this is a little off topic.
Robert
Powermac G5 Dual 2.7Ghz, 4GB, X800, WD "Raptor" 74 GB 10K boot, 3.5 TB FW 800 Mac OS X (10.4.5) My first Computer was an Apple IIc !!

You could purchase an iPod along with the iPod Photo Connector to download the images for storage.
http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/AppleStore.woa/70203/wo/oG40TPj AzNzm2xaoa3A25wLSBVg/2.SLID?mco=55EFC253&nplm=M9861G%2FA
Epson also makes two such a devices.
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/consumer/consDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oi d=49164278
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/consumer/consDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oi d=61555441
PowerMac G5 Quad 2.5Ghz Mac OS X (10.4.5) 4.5GB RAM, Nvidia 7800 GT, 600GB RAID

Compositing, green screen, cameras, codecs, tigers, bears, oh my...

I currently have a Canon HV30. From what I understand it records onto tape with 4:2:0 compression. I like to (try) to do keying work with it, but in all honesty the keys never come out all that great.... OK, but not great. I understand the reasons why (compression onto tape, 4:2:0 loses a lot of chroma data in compression, imprefect lighting conditions, etc.) but am wondering if the newer camcorders are any better.
I know that camcorders such as mine can record 4:2:2 if using an HDMI cable to record to an Intensity card, but I wonder if any current solid-state memory camcorders with large storage (and comsumer-level price tags) can record internally with 4:2:2 compression?
For the moment I capture to tape on my camera, transfer it to FCP my computer, then use Compressor to get it to the Prorez 422 codec. Is this the best method currently available to me for green screen and keying work (in fact, is changing it to Prorez 422 helping me at all), or am I going about this all wrong?

The only solid state cameras that record 4:2:2 compression are P2 cameras. And they start at about $5200. No consumer level camera records 4:2:2. HDV, AVCHD...those are 4:2:0. DVCPRO HD, AVCIntra...those are 4:2:2.
You can also look at getting external recording devices like the AJA Ki Pro, that records directly to ProRes via SDI, HDMI, component. No lugging the computer to the set. And you can use what you already have. No, there is no consumer level price tag on this.
If you insist on consumer level pricing, you'll get consumer level results.
Shane

Green screen for videos and movies

i upgraded all the software for itunes and quicktime. using another post for 'green screen for video previews', i modified some settings in quicktime and one of them now has strips of static across the green. quite frustrating...

I could be off the mark, but you may need to install the version of iTunes here: iTunes for Windows (64-bit — for older video cards).
And then repair/reinstall QuickTime 7.7.6 for Windows.
If that works for you then the next time Apple Software Update or iTunes tells you there is a new version revisit the first link. It should be updated with a new "for older video cards" version that will work with QuickTime.
tt2

Green Screen with masking, and widescreen.

Hi,
I am having a small problem. I am working with green screen and I masked out the things that the green screen wasn't covering. After I was finished I activated the green screen function, and now, the things I masked out are there again. The numbers that showed the masking outline are still there, but it isn't blacked out like I wanted it to be. And also, I know how to make a single clip widescreen, but how can you make a whole project widescreen?
Thanks,
Leroy

Hi Leroy,
1. In the filters pane of the viewer, drag your Matte that you used to cut out the things you didn't want below your Keying effect, so that it is rendered afterward.
2. Click on the sequence, and go to +Sequence > Settings.+ Select the preset that matches your media. Alternatively, you can change the Easy Setup to match your media and then create a new sequence.
Hope that helped,
Sasha

GTX 770 Lightning vBios recovery and other questions

Hey I was just wondering, is 70C too hot becau- Just kidding. Haha, gotcha.
Actual Question: I was messing about flashing higher and higher power/memory/clock settings and I went too high. Just as I get to the betta fish loading logo (I'm using the 8.1 preview) the screen goes black but does not sleep and I'm stuck there. So now I get to use the LN2 switch to boot, (I JUST researched LN2 and realized what I've been missing) but how do I flash a Normal mode vbios when I can only run in LN2 mode?
Also, just to be 100% safe: A UEFI/GOP vBios is backward compatible with a legacy MB right? I want to make sure I have a vbios to boot with. MY actual computer is an obnoxious Inspiron 546 from 2009... yea. I'm just borrowing this rig. The 770 is MINE though.
Another issue I cannot understand is that whenever I reach 99% GPU usage under ANY (Normal) vBios settings in ANY game with ANY driver the game freezes and crashes and MSI afterburner occasionally reports something crazy like 90129374% Power in a spike. I was actually trying to work around that by overclocking so much I'd never reach 99% GPU usage, but it still spikes for a split second and crashes me.
Finally, I'm highly curious about this vbios entry on techpowerup http://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/141424/msi-gtx770-2048-130605.html The other two MSI GTX770 Lightning vbios's on this page http://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/index.php?manufacturer=MSI&model=GTX+770 are the Normal and LN2 vbios's as it states at the bottom, but that third one says nothing on the bottom, and to further increase curiosity the version number has a more significant change in it. Has something been updated?
Oooh yes, one last thing. I've think I might have come across a bug in Svets vBios Tuner (2.49h). I can't set any P*state higher than 2040 because I get a 'wrong parameter' error with anything above that. I used Kepler Bios Tweaker 1.25 to set it to 2104 and that worked, but appears as 4 in both Kepler Bios tweaker and Svets Tuner after that.
I know this is a lot of questions at once here, but I tend to save 'em up for a while. Thank you in advance. -Eli

Quote
but how do I flash a Normal mode vbios when I can only run in LN2 mode?
If you have a non-nvidia vga left you can install it besides the lightning and use it for primary display. Then just use nvflash as usual to reflash a normal vbios (of course card needs to be switched to normal) and it will flash the nvidia adapter it finds (the Lightning). If you only have another Nvidia card left you'd have to identify the adapters name you want to flash (type nvflash --list and all adapters are listed). If then wanting to flash add the adapter name before the file to flash, e.g.: nvflash i1 vbios.rom (assuming i1 is the Lightning's name and vbios.rom is the name of the file to flash). Nvflash will then just flash the Lightning.
If you have no other vga you are out of luck. A PC-Shop can recover it for you.
Quote
Also, just to be 100% safe: A UEFI/GOP vBios is backward compatible with a legacy MB right?
If the board is really legacy bios (no UEFI at all) then theoretically yes. Of course the board needs to be compatible to the latest GTX770 series cards. Old mainboards might run into compatibility issues apart from the vbios.
Quote
Another issue I cannot understand is that whenever I reach 99% GPU usage under ANY (Normal) vBios settings in ANY game with ANY driver the game freezes and crashes and MSI afterburner occasionally reports something crazy like 90129374% Power in a spike. I was actually trying to work around that by overclocking so much I'd never reach 99% GPU usage, but it still spikes for a split second and crashes me.
Then your card is for whatever reason not stable (e.g. insufficient power supply, software issue, too much cpu overclock or simply the card not making factory settings - rma issue -).
Quote
Finally, I'm highly curious about this vbios entry on techpowerup http://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/141424/msi-gtx770-2048-130605.html The other two MSI GTX770 Lightning vbios's on this page http://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/index.php?manufacturer=MSI&model=GTX+770 are the Normal and LN2 vbios's as it states at the bottom, but that third one says nothing on the bottom, and to further increase curiosity the version number has a more significant change in it. Has something been updated?
Don't download vbioses from third party sites. The uploaders mostly have no clue of these files themselves. There is nothing newer than you got from Svet. Don't experiment.
Quote
Oooh yes, one last thing. I've think I might have come across a bug in Svets vBios Tuner (2.49h). I can't set any P*state higher than 2040 because I get a 'wrong parameter' error with anything above that. I used Kepler Bios Tweaker 1.25 to set it to 2104 and that worked, but appears as 4 in both Kepler Bios tweaker and Svets Tuner after that.
Then contact Svet about it or post in the thread for his tool: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=148273.0

Green Screen Camera Settings and other questions...

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