Need advice on 2 individual plans to shared family plan

My Fiance and I want to go to a joined family plan. Combined we pay about 160.00... or slightly less right now.
We both have 450 minutes plans, with Texting(i have 1500) she has unlimited, and we both have unlimited Data.
We both have new every 2's in December this year. We both want Galaxy Nexus phones.
I'd like some advice on what the best option is for us. I see the 89.99 is 1400 minutes. That would be more minutes for both of us. I want to absolutely keep the unlimted data but texting I think could be scaled back.
Do we get any benefit other than 1 bill being on a family plan?
I get to keep my company discount but she loses her discount?
They told us we should upgrade our phones first and after put our services together???
I appeciate any help the community can offer.

I'd suggest waiting just because you'll lose the NE2 credit on one phone. I've heard stories of people losing the upgrade when they change accounts, though I did this in January at all was fine. Also I'd double check about both keeping unlimited data. You will lose one discount, it's only for the account owner. What about dropping to 700 minutes that would save $20 a month. There is 1000 text plans for $10each line.
You'd need to do the math to find what's cheaper. You can also combine the accounts into one bill if the plans are not exactly the same. For example, I have 2 family plans, one 700 minutes the other 1400 minutes, but I get one bill. Their system would not combine into one bill when i had 2 exact same 700 minute plans.

Similar Messages

Need advice on how to best approach Family Sharing, multiple devices, Apple IDs, etc.

My wife and I both have iPhone 5's (soon to be 6's) running iOS 8, I have an iPad (v2) running iOS 8, and my wife just got a MacBook Air (running Mavericks, soon to be Yosemite). We also have Apple TV (v2) running the latest OS. That's five Apple devices shared between a husband and wife (not counting my two-year-old's unsupported iPhone 4 used for kid games).
We have always just used the same Apple ID for everything. However, things are changing fast. We have both upgraded to iOS 8, we will soon be getting iPhone 6's, she now has a MacBook Air that will soon support Continuity, and we will purchase iCloud Drive storage for our iPhone 6's to free up photo/video storage space from our phones. We need to rethink and reorganize how we manage these devices because my wife does not want my email, iMessages, contacts, or Safari bookmarks showing up on her new MacBook, but she would like to use the upcoming Continuity feature.
In the perfect world, we would like the following: We would like to have separate: 1) email, 2) iMessages, 3) contacts, 4) Safari bookmarks, and 5) photos/videos. But we would like to have access to: 1) each others' backed up photos and videos stored on the new iCloud Drive, 2) iTunes, App Store, and iBooks Store purchases, and 3) a shared family calendar.
Right now, using the same Apple ID on all five devices, we are able to successfully do all of the above by setting up different email accounts on each device, by designating different phone numbers and email addresses on each device, etc. However, when my wife set up her new MacBook Air this morning, she told it to import Contacts from the Apple ID, but it looks like it imported everything from an old iCloud backup of my device. How can my wife totally integrate and sync her own iPhone and MacBook Air without getting the bookmarks, contacts, etc. from my iPhone? Is there a way to do this, whether through same/different Apple IDs, the new Family Sharing mechanism, or a combination of both? Any considerations or advice that I am not thinking of?
Thanks so much,
New At This
PS - I am very computer literate and can implement complicated solutions if necessary, but I am not familiar with any cross-device sharing options or even the OS X interface at all.

here's a mockup of sorta what I'm going for:
http://imgur.com/pN70P
just not sure what elements would be most logical to start from!

Need to move 1 (out 3) family plan lines to an individual plan and keep employer discount intact

I've tried to find this answer via search but it seems everyone's scenario is a bit different, so I'm asking here in hope's a kind soul can give me a good answer in hopes I can accomplish this without having to go into a store.
We have a 3 line family plan currently that is being discounted via my employer. I'm getting a divorce, which means I need to break out my phone line separately and no longer be a part of that family plan (she'll continue to pay for her line and the 2nd line). Issues I'm curious on:
I want to keep my number. Can I?
Will the current family plan continue to get the discount? Will I also be eligible to keep my employer's discount on a new single line plan?
Will we be in violation of contract and have to pay ETFs if I move my line to this separate billable solution?
Any other unforeseen issues with trying to do this? I need to be 100% separated from this current account and assured I will have service, etc. if she suddenly wants to cancel her service, move carriers, etc.
Thanks very, very much for trying to help me in this chaotic time.

Assumption of Liability
Sounds like you are the account owner. It would be best to do the Assumption of Liability process to split off the other two lines into a new account under your soon to be ex-wife's name. Depending on her credit, she might have to pay a deposit. Once those lines are removed from your account, your line changes to an individual plan. The employee discount should hopefully remain, but the amount discounted might go down. If the discount doesn't stay, you can always reapply for the discount to be added to your line as the account owner.

Need advice on on a Mac Pro 1,1 Media Center

I currently have a 2009 Mac Mini running as my home media center, but I recently came by a FREE Mac Pro 1,1 and have decided to repurpose it as my media center so I can migrate my Mac Mini to my bedroom TV where it will live an easy life doing nothing but run Plex Home Theater, Netflix, and EyeTV. This machine falling into my lap was also quite timely because my 4-bay Drobo is running low on available expansion and another Drobo isn't in the budget at the moment.
This vintage mac pro is running Lion 10.7.5, has 1 old and crusty 500GB hardrive, dual x5160 processors, 4GB RAM (one stick i'm pretty sure is toast judging by the red light and the kernel panics), and the standard NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT 256MB graphics card. It will be used primarily for the following: network storage for iphoto and itunes libraries, streaming video, Plex Media Server & Plex Home Theater, and Handbrake encoding. I also have a goal of safety of data for my movies, photos and music as this machine will supplement my current Drobo storage.
My plans are for a 128GB SSD boot drive installed in one of the PCIe slots and then to load up all 4 of the 3.5" drive bays with WD Green hard drives. I have also ordered 4GB of replacement RAM, so upon removal of the faulty unit I will have 7GB.
Here is where I need advice because I am not very familiar with RAID and the differences between hardware or software raid. Am I better off getting four drives of the same size and setting them up as RAID 5 (I think) using Apple's RAID utility or should I throw in three 1TB drives and then install a fourth 3TB or 4TB drive as a Time Machine backup for the other three?
Should I upgrade the OSX to the technically unsupported latest version? Or is it not worth the trouble for this application?
Also, is there any benefit to upgrading the graphics card to the ATI Radeon 5770? Would this yield an improved image quality? I am outputting to a Denon AV Reciever and subsequently to a 100" projection screen, if that makes a difference. I also noticed the 5770 has an HDMI port, wich would be nice, but not necessary since I can use a DVI converter and woud still need to use the optical audio out anyway.
Much obliged for any input

My plans are for a 128GB SSD boot drive installed in one of the PCIe slots and then to load up all 4 of the 3.5" drive bays with WD Green hard drives. I have also ordered 4GB of replacement RAM, so upon removal of the faulty unit I will have 7GB.
PCIe cards that use or support SSD are not bootable until you get to 2008 (and that is limited too).
Green are not suited for any form of array unless say NAS and WD RED. Better option would be 3 x 2TB WD Blacks in a mirror, and too many people only use two drives, well 3 is much easier safer and works better. Might want to invest in www.SoftRAID.com product even.
Best price and quality, got my 1,1 with 8 x 2GB (ideal is 4 or 8 DIMMs)
2x2GB FBDIMM DDR2 667MHz @ $25
http://www.amazon.com/BUFFERED-PC2-5300-FB-DIMM-APPLE-Memory/dp/B002ORUUAC/
With price of 250GB SSD $155 I'd go with that or stick with $89 for 128GB .

Doc Project with format confusion- need advice

I have a documentary project with a plethora of footage formats because the doc spans a long length of time and different project collaborators. We just shot more footage and I don't want to move forward converting the new footage until I know the best path to take form here on out. please advise.
Here is the info.
Below i'm listing the descritption of footage, the format, and the % I'm predicting it will be used in the final edit of the documentary I'm working on.
Archival Footage: DV NTSC 720x480 (10%)
Original footage shot: DV NTSC 720x480 anamorphic (40%)
Additional Footage shot in Summer 2010 with Panasonic HVX200: DVCPRO HD 720p60 29.97 (35% shared with canon 7D footage listed below)
Additional Footage shot in Summer 2010 with Canon 7D: shot 1920x1080 23.98 Apple Pro Res 422, pixel aspect square. I converted this footage to 720p60 29.97 to match the Panasonic footage but I still have the original files saved. (35% shared with hvx200 footage listed above)
New Footage shot with Canon 7D: 1920x1080 23.98 Apple Pro Res 422, pixel aspect square (15%)
Timelines:
- I edit the SD footage in timelines with SD sequence settings matching the format of the footage
- I edit the HD footage in timelines with DVCPRO HD sequence settings matching the format of the footage
- when footage of both formats ends up in one 'scene' the timeline is DV NTSC 720x480
- when I output a rough cut, I nested sequences and output DV NTSC 720x480
I have not converted the new footage yet and before I do convert it and then transform continue editing, I feel I need to re-evauluate how I'm approaching the multi-format situation. I need advice about the best path to take from here on out. WHAT WOULD YOU DO?
Should I upconvert the SD footage and do everything HD from now on? The final cut will probably be 50% SD and 50% HD with possibly more HD than SD.
If I do upconvert and go HD, is 720p60 29.97 the best format for me to use considering my footage sources? If you have any ideas, please also explain how you might go about carrying them out.
Thank you!

krgarty wrote:
Exactly, whic is why I'm seeking advice. the final delivery will be film festival screenings and hopefully broadcast, and considering the channels today that = HD.
That's not a final decision at all, that's a series of delivery options. You must produce your project in the highest resolution for which you have space, codecs and techniucal competency.You will save that as the "final" but I'd not call it that since nothing is ever finalized. Jsut keep naming the versions. Then you will open the full rez version and use any of several conversion or compresiona apps to satisfy all other distribution needs.
The omst flexible will be a 1080/60 format but that decision will cost you tons of conversion time, lots of space, and will require many stylistic decisions along the way.
That's what I would do but I'm not you and I'm not your client.

Charges associated with switching from Family to Individual Plans

Is there any kind of penalty charge for switching from a family plan to an individual plan when it is the secondary line that is being removed and the secondary lines' contract is complete?

skiibojosh wrote:
Is there any kind of penalty charge for switching from a family plan to an individual plan when it is the secondary line that is being removed and the secondary lines' contract is complete?
Thanks to the community members for your input. Hello skiibojosh, adding to what was stated, Are you just wishing to change your calling plan so each line remains with Verizon Wireless under their own individual plan You can always change your calling plan online without a penalty as it is not related to a customer agreement. I hope your line that completed the contract does remain with us. We desire to provide your line with best calling plan available. Here's a link that goes over the individual calling plans we currently offer. Additionally, there are great benefits with having a family share plan. However, depending upon your specific circumstances, if you desire to have both of lines on an individual plan, you could process a calling plan change online at My Verizon. It is suggested to change the calling plan effective on your next bill cycle to help avoid any prorated charges. If you need additional assistance with doing a calling plan change, send me a private message with your contact information.

How do I change my plan to the student/teacher plan when I have the individual plan

how do I change my plan to the student/teacher plan when I have the individual plan?

To change your subscription you FIRST need to contact Adobe support to be sure you will not have to pay a termination fee - Adobe contact information - http://helpx.adobe.com/contact.html
Adobe Education... Start here https://creative.adobe.com/join/edu
Education Plan https://creative.adobe.com/plans?plan=edu
When you buy an Education subscription, the terms you "click to agree" should be clear about the first/later years
-One Year Intro Price http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1448933?tstart=0
http://www.adobe.com/products/creativecloud/students.edu.html
http://www.adobe.com/education/students/student-eligibility-guide.edu.html
Redemption Code https://creative.adobe.com/educard
ID Proof http://www.adobe.com/store/au_edu/academic_id.html

How do I switch from group plan to individual plan?

I have been in a plan with three individuals included on the plan. How do we go from a group plan to individual plans if it was under the name of just one individual? Can we just keep our individual numbers and just move to individual plans?

I can help you, Shockrift. You can also go onto individual plans and stay on the same account. http://bit.ly/xdDajD I must advise that this will increase your monthly cost. Please let me know if you need additional assistance.
ChaunceyM_VZW
Follow us on twitter @VZWSupport

How can I transition from Individual Plans to Business Plan?

My company has two Creative Cloud Individual Plans, and we need another. But we should really transition into a 3-person Business Plan instead. How do I talk to someone about doing this?

Team license links that may help
-http://www.adobe.com/creativecloud/buy/business.html
-manage your team account http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1460939?tstart=0

Business plan or Individual plan for doing Commercial Work

Hi
I do Photoshop design work, and sell designs to people. Currently I have a Licensed copy of CS2, but would now like to go for the latest version of Photoshop as its the only application i use.
I don't need more than one license, because it is just me.
Which plan is correct for this? Do I need a Business plan or Individual plan for doing Commercial Work? Can i use the "Individuals - Photography" ?
Also what is the difference between "Individuals - Photography" and "Individuals - Single App"
Can you please help me by providing proper answer that fits right to my case, just need the plan to fit to my intentions.

https://www.adobe.com/products/eula/tools/captivate.html
4.7 No Service Bureau. Customer will not use or offer the Software on a service bureau basis. Section 16.6.3 provides a limited exception for font software only.
What i could gather on the forums :
This clause means that you cannot rent out the software for third parties to use.
It does not mean that you yourself are prohibited from using the software in your business, even if that means you are producing a product for a third party. Rather, it is designed to stop you from setting up a room with a computer (or now online as a Software as a Service) with the application installed on it and renting time to some third party customer for them to use the room/computer/software to produce their own products. is this what adobe refers to a service bureau.
Is the above explanation correct ?

New user of G4 - need advice on selection of printer, DV and digital camera

I am a recent convert to mac and need advice from experts on the following:
I plan to use my G4 MDD primarily for home computing, experimenting with digital photography, create DVDs and explore multimedia primarily as a hobby. Please advice me on selection of a decent digital camera and or a DV camera. I am not sure if I have a decent DV camera - whether this will be good enough for still photos as well. My G4 has firewire ports.
Also I am interested in buying a printer that I can use with my mac as well as connect to a two other windows systems. My printing needs are primarily documents and maybe photos.. I think that going in for a laser printer makes sense in terms of reliability .
I am not looking for the highend equipment - willing to spend upto 750 $ on all items. Thanks in advance.

raja,
welcome to discussions.
Digital Camera, DV camera and colour Laser Printer all for $750 ??
I'm afraid you'll have to go for an inkjet printer if you want colour photos. Expensive doesn't even begin to describe Colour Laser Printers. HP make good printers, but tend to be a bit more expensive to run, Epson make excellent photo printers, are are a bit more economical to run, take a look at the iP4000 and iP5000. I still use my old HP DeskJet 1200 (does A3), and a DeskJet 970Cxi (everyday), both use the same cartidges. These are about 7 years old, there are modern versions retailing now at about half of what I paid for these then(always the case).
Digital cameras can be decided by what purpose you intend to use them for. I have an 18 month old Nikon D100 digital SLR. 6M pixel (which was a lot then) but that might not matter, it takes Nikon lenses (and other manufacturer lenses to the same spec), so I can shoot with a 300mm, 400mm, 600mm lens. Nikon has a D50 out now, a cheaper, newer version of my camera. I can print A3 photo real from 6M pixels and with the right lens I don't need to crop my pictures too much. If you want to print photo real A4 (and that's a LOT of ink) a 3-4M pixel camera would be fine. Most cameras now are 5-8 M pixel, this is because the pictures they take have to be cropped drastically because they have an inadequate lens. On top of that my Nikon takes really great pictures, better than any of my other digi cameras (but not as good as my ancient Olympus 35mm muji-zoom compact with 200 film).
So if you're going to take a lot of close ups in well lit areas, product shots, interior shots with flash, ie. "snaps" rather than photography, any cheap digi camera will do. Good points are
- USB / Firewire connectivity,
- non-proprietry battery technology, ie. it uses 4 x recharable AAs instead of a battery that only fits that camera, and it comes with a AA recharger.
- non-proprietry storage technology, ie. it uses Compact Flash or some other that is used by a large portion of cameras, rather than just be that manufacturer.
- digital zoom is worthless.
If you're doing outdoor photography, wildlife, landscapes, etc, you may want something with a changeable lens and SLR technology, a digital SLR. Not all digital SLR cameras have changeable lenses. Same good points as above, but be prepared to sacrifice one of the points for a good camera. Heavy cameras are easier to hold steady with a big lens, so try for a metal case (it'll be coated in plastic anyway).
For outdoors the most important thing is the amount of light entering the camera (indoors you can control the lighting with flash / fitted lighting), digital SLRs can have enormous lenses (my 28mm hyperzoom lens has a 72mm diameter), compare this to a compact digital camera with a 12mm diameter lens, I take 36x the light of a compact. And it shows in the picture quality.
I'm a complete duffer with DV cameras so I won't lead you astray with this, but be aware some do offer the option to take digital pictures. Indeed some digital cameras can take low quality short movies.
Let us know if you have any more questions.

Need advice on a proof printer

Hello. So glad I found this site!
I'm currently a print graphic designer and starting a home based business integrating my print design knowledge with newly acquired web design skills to offer a complete package.
I am working on an HP computer, as I cannot afford the Mac I want now. I have all of the Adobe software for PC already, but need advice for a printer.
The machines I work on now are like $18k - 25k color lasers, and clearly that is not in my budget. I'm a little lost as to what to look for in a printer that can handle color proofs of my artwork. I create a lot of raster images in PS, but logo design is one of my focuses, so vector output is essential. I almost always create outlines of fonts for the final press ready file, so I'm not so worried about fonts, but color matching is important.
I've been reading about Postscript and PCL, but am still very confused. I'm also a little confused as to what a rip does or if I need one. We use one at my shop, and I know how to use it, but it lives on the server and was explained that it was only necessary for networking the printers.
I am planning to outsource all of my final printing, but I need a printer for proofing. I've been looking at inkjets for affordability reasons, but now I'm not sure if I need a color laser.
Help!!

Dear VectorGirly, I currently have an OKI Postscript c9800 printer. I use postscript printers because I calibrate and use color profiles to get the closest colour match to the outsourced commercial print that I can. I know this is more than you budgeted for, but it really depends what you end up focusing on. (ie web or print). I focus more on print, hence my printer has to proof postscript correctly for me. I am PC based but my files print to both PC and Mac platforms.
Regarding logos and colors ... firstly, my monitor is calibrated with a Pantone Huey. I use matching color profiles in all my design programs: Indesign, Illustrator, Photoshop. My print PDFs include the color profiles. When I email or post proofs of logos or corporate stationery to clients I make sure they understand that colors will look different on various monitors because they are not calibrated for print and are RGB or color prism based rather than CMYK for print. Even if you choose a Pantone color, unless everything is calibrated and with color profiles, it's unlikely that you will get the same color on your screen, let alone on the client's screen. And if the client is wanting a color that looks good on their screen, it's even harder. I always recommend they look at the proof colours on various screens including friends so they can understand how it changes according to monitors.
Regarding PCL and Postscript: When I purchased my OKI (and my former Fuji Xerox pscript), I sent an existing print PDF (that had gone to commercial print previously) to the head office and asked them to do printouts of all the printers I was interested in. All the printers based as PCL were very inaccurate color. The two with postscript took my PDF and printed correctly and were very close to the final printed output. As I am pedantic on colour (colour in Australian spelling), I had to choose the high end postcript laser. Having said that, I am also very interested in the Fuji Xerox Phaser 8500 which is postscript and solid ink (great for the environment and people with allergies and low running costs - much better than laser) - but I need the A3 and banner printing option and they haven't made one for that size yet. I am hoping the new release may offer a bigger size paper. I have a very high allergy level and have to have the window open and a mask on when changing toners and printing, hence my interest in the solid ink for the future.
I always download my fonts through the print PDF to the printer - I never use printer inbuilt fonts. This is so I know that WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) when I print commercially as they also download/use the embedded PDF fonts.
Also, somewhere down the line you may find yourself forced to choose between focusing on web and print.
I recommend you choose what you love best.

Block individual planned orders from CIF

Hello All,
I would like to know if there is a way to exclude individual planned orders from CIF transfer from R/3 to APO?
Thanks and Regards

Hi Gabriella,
It would not make sense to modify the standard way of working of SAP APO only for 2 months.
If you use any kind of enhancements, etc, you would need to later on remove it or deactivate it.
Best option would be to make adjustments in your forecast so that SNP could plan additionally for this temporary demand. Otherwise create dummy sales orders in R/3 which would inflate the demand. But this would be feasible, only if you DON'T automatically confirm the Sales orders for delivery in some way, or if you could think of some way in which these Sales Orders do not get processed further in some way.
Or, as you yourself mentioned, increase the safety stock temporarily, and later on (may be after 2 months), reduce it to the normal value. But especially closer to end of 2 month period, someone would need to manually adjust planned or production orders in R/3 to have data sanity. Similarly, action would be needed in APO also to have data in sync with R/3.
You could have created the planned orders directly in R/3 and sent them across to APO, but this would increase the receipt situation, so SNP would then start planning for lower "net demand".
PS: In such scenarios where business needs something temporarily and which can't fit in the standard process, it is best that we convince them to have some workarounds which might not really sound like businesswise wise (in this case creating additional forecast).
Thanks - Pawan

Need advice on Career in SAP after completing 9 yrs in IT mainly in Telecommunication Domain with BMC Remedy Tool knowledge

Need advice on Career in SAP after completing 9 yrs in IT mainly in Telecommunication Domain with BMC Remedy Tool knowledge.
Which Module of SAP I can learn and get into as I have Tool based knowledge in BMC Remedy and fair knowledge in SQL, as I come from non-IT background. What are career prospect after completing any SAP module now will my previous experience will be taken into account?

Prashant,
One of the reasons nobody has replied to you yet is that, this is a question with so little information provided.
- There is no mention of your education background.
- Your work background is very vague.What exactly did you do in Telecommunication Domain?
- What exactly did you do in BMC Remedy? Where you just an end-user or did you do any background support work?
- What exactly did you do in SQL? Did you work on it or did you just attend training?
- Why do you want to jump into SAP? And what precisely you want to jump into in SAP?
- What are your interests? Technical or Non-technical?
- What's your career objective? Where do you want to be 5 years from now?
Without providing these information how can anyone help you? Picking a module and going with it makes no sense. What if you spend an insane amount of time and money learning a module in SAP (based on some random suggestions given here) and realize that this is not what you were looking for, or there is little scope for that module in the market? What then?
It's your career that you are planning. It definitely deserves more thought-process and planning to go into.
pk

Newbie needs advice on starting a project

Hi all.. New to DVD Pro, need the wisdom of experienced users before I waste a whole lot of time....
I've got a show mixed (2 cameras, multitracked audio mixed in logic express and synch'd) and rendered from final cut express to a self-contained QT movie, 16 GB, runs maybe 90 minutes, with a dozen or so chapters representing different scenes.
The intended product is a DVD for friends, families, actors, and support for grant writing to philanthropic organizations (it's a small grant-budgeted theater of disabled adults). The DVD should, of course "play all" and each segment.
I plan to have a main menu to choose "play all, scenes 1-6, scenes 6-12", not sure if I'll need 2 or 3 submenus....
Here is the question.....
Shall I import as an asset just the whole show (which I think is what I should do), or should I break it and render each "chapter marker" from FCE to a separate .mov (the temptation would be that each segment could fade in and out from black, rather than cut in abruptly and end abruptly with a return to a menu). Alternatively, if I used segments with fade-ins and fade-outs, it would lose the continuity of the seamless "whole show" when the view chooses "play all".
That's why I need advice - because I don't know how it's all gonna work, what the options and capabilities are, but I felt like i needed to get beyond iDVD.
So thanks in advance for any words of wisdom!!!!
btw... it will be done on a late-2008 vintage 2.4 GHz core duo macbook pro with 2 GB ram, 250 GB hard drive, osX 10.5.?, dvd studio pro 4
Thanks again! Peter

If you want to be able to play just parts of your video as well as a "play all" then what you need are Stories. There is a complete tutorial on setting up stories at;
http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/stories_dvdspstone.html

Need advice on 2 individual plans to shared family plan

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