On windows 7 what format on hdd for clean install on mac

I have a imac 2008, with no hard drive. I have one I can put in but what format do I need it to be to install Yosemite. I have the usb ready, I understand that ntfs does not work with bootcamp, I am about to try exfat, is that correct?
Also I have a windows usb keyboard, is it the alt key I hold to get it to boot from the usb stick?
Thanks in advanced.

So I need a mac to install mac os? surely there is a way to format the drive in windows, shall I just install mac on vmware then format it and then install the os?
I do not understand why is so hard, surely I can just stick the hdd in on fat32 or exfat and install the os?
I build pc's all day, fix any problems on windows but this mac stuff is confusing the **** out of me, someone help!

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NO Lenovo Windows 8.1 Recovery DVD for CLEAN INSTALL! + unable to Install UEFI MODE

Hi,
I Just bought 25 Thinkpad T431s Laptops for my company (@ISRAEL)
All of them came with windows 7SP1 Installed And Recovery is Windows 8 (not 8.1 even though 8.1 is out for a yr!)
The Install process takes 3 Hours!!! Just for upgrading to windows 8.
Then I need to upgrade to 8.1 - the process is about 3 hours more! Because I need to Register And create Microsoft account for each user then to verify the account.
After that I need to Log with the account to the PC And then Download the update (3.5GB) And Install it.
IS ANYONE AT LENOVO THINKS THAT ITS ACCEPTABLE?
DO I WORK FOR LENOVO? DO I NEED TO SPEND 6 HOURS FOR UPGRADING EACH LAPTOP?
Don't forget that after that I need to uninstall all the bloater from the PC. Like Symantec AV (Because Enterprise company's uses Enterprise Class AV, FW And other software. We uses Kaspersky Enterprise, ESET, And others...)
AND ABOVE ALL.
If I want to Install Original Windows 8.1 I can't!
Because the OS Recovery DVD is not bootable And contain special recovery files with special extensions. Also, there is no PRODUCT CODE! Just "WINDOWS 8" sticker logo on the back of the notebook.
SO I WANT TO KNOW WHERE AND HOW(!)
I CAN GET A WINDOWS 8.1 ORIGINAL ISO IN ORDER TO INSTALL IT ON ALL MY PC's.
I want to know why I can't Install Just the "OPERATING SYSTEM RECOVERY DISK" (A standard clean Install)
== When I tried with my own Windows 8.1 Pro VL \ RETAIL ISO to Install it didn't pass activation==
==================== not even with the extracted key from the bios=====================
FYI - WHEN I BUY DELL OR HP LAPTOPS I'M GETTING A WINDOWS 8.1 PRO X64 BOOTABLE DVD DISK in addition to the 2 DVD RECOVERY DISKS. (So I am able to Install windows Without all the that you And them put into the recovery disk set).
Customer service in ISRAEL said that this is not possible! And that the only way is:
1. Use the 3 DVD recovery disks to format And Install windows 8.0
2. Register the user with a Microsoft account
3. Log in to each PC with his own Microsoft account
4. Download 8.1 update from Microsoft store
3. Install the 3.5GB update.
4. uninstall all the bloater.
So can I please ask you to confirm the answer I got from LENOVO ISRAEL. If So, ill return the laptops And that will the last time ANY OF MY COMPANY'S WILL EVER BUY ANY NOTEBOOKS OR TABLETS FROM LENOVO!
In addition, im trying to figure out how can I contact Lenovo main office to file a complaint against Lenovo Israel.
CEO Ms. Sigal didn't do anything to try And solve the issue, the product manager Mr. Many talk with me on the phone And was very rood. At the end he hang up the phone in my face! After I proved him wrong in another issue (T440s T431s cannot be installed with UEFI Because External DVD drive does not support UEFI Install only Legacy. And there is a big different between Legacy And UEFI)
Thank you.
Moderator note; profanity / implied profanity edited. Forum Rules

Hi ohad, welcome to the forums,
I'm sorry to read about your experience.
I don't work for Lenovo but it would appear to me that something may have gone wrong at the sales / purchasing stage; to my knowledge the T431s is only available with Windows 7 preload, (with Win 8 recovery discs in some cases as you have), or with Windows 8 preload. A Win 8.1 preload doesn't appear to be available for the system, but I stand to be corrected on this. If you required Windows 8.1, in my opinion the better option of the two, would have been a system with the Win 8 preinstall as this would only require updating to Win 8.1
Unfortunately I also can't envisage Lenovo creating a factory image for the T431s because it must be pretty near end of life.
You might find the following to be of interest;
http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Windows-8-and-8-1-Knowledge-Base/Why-can-t-I-boot-from-a-USB-key-on-UEFI...
Andy ______________________________________
Please remember to come back and mark the post that you feel solved your question as the solution, it earns the member + points
Did you find a post helpfull? You can thank the member by clicking on the star to the left awarding them Kudos Please add your type, model number and OS to your signature, it helps to help you. Forum Search Option T430 2347-G7U W8 x64, Yoga 10 HD+, Tablet 1838-2BG, T61p 6460-67G W7 x64, T43p 2668-G2G XP, T23 2647-9LG XP, plus a few more. FYI Unsolicited Personal Messages will be ignored.
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Hi . i have Intel based iMac. i erased whole hard disk. now it flashes folder icon with question mark... i have no internet or orginal dvd.... i want to clean install any mac osx..friend got mac book pro and osx in dmg format . what are my options?

hi . i have Intel based iMac. i erased whole hard disk. now it flashes folder icon with question mark... i have no internet or orginal dvd.... i want to clean install any mac osx..friend got mac book pro and osx in dmg format . what are my options?

On your friend's computer with an internet connection, log into the Mac App Store with your ID and download Yosemite from the Purchases section of the Mac App Store. The make a bootable USB install media using
http://liondiskmaker.com/
Then boot from that on your computer and install
You need an internet connection to install via Recovery mode

What is the recommendation for cleaning ones sensor? I have a 5D.

What is the recommendation for cleaning the sensor on the 5D III
Thank you,
M

The manual recommends using a blower when the automatic cleaning fails - or better yet, sending it to Canon for service. Sometimes - rarely - a blower will work and is the simplest and reasonably safe thing to use.
Otherwise many like the Sensor Swab solution. It is tedious and expensive, but I have used it effectively several times - especially on the 5D that seemed more prone to spots than the newer models. The problem I always have is going from bad to worse to finally better - a lot of patience is required and wasting or going through several of the swabs is not uncommon. Maybe my technique sucks, but I find it takes a lot of time and swabs to be eventually be satisfied. That said, I have never caused any damage and I have always managed to finally get the sensor clean. Along with the swabs, good lighting and magnification (reading glasses or similar) is also necessary as the spots that look huge on a photo will be nearly invisible.
http://www.sensorswab.com/
Steve
EOS 5D MKIII

What software is recommended for the maintenance of mac?

What software is recommended for the maintenance of mac?

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
The more heavily promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
4. Beware of malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X used to be so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
Let go of the Windows mentality that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. The machine should not be a focus of your attention. You shouldn't have to think about it at all. It should be a transparent, almost unnoticeable tool by means of which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a computer that depends on you to keep going, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

How to change startup disk for a 2012 Mac mini with dual HDD and clean installed with Windows 8.1?

Hi,
I have a Mac-mini (late 2012 model), originally with Mac OS X Maverick Server installed (with two HDD). Recently, I had clean installed Windows 8.1 on one of the HDD (worked perfectly, just slow) and swapped the other HDD (with Mac OSX) with a SSD. I then cloned the Windows OS HDD in to the new SSD. Now I am trying to boot this Mac mini from this SSD, however, since this Mac mini do not have BIOS for me to change the boot sequence at the startup, is there any one can help?
Thank you,
Liusc

If you boot with the Option key depressed what boot options are shown?
Also:
Restart your computer
After Windows is installed, you can switch between OS X and Windows. Use the Startup Disk preference pane in OS X, or the Boot Camp system tray item in Windows to select your startup disk, then restart your computer
How to install Windows using Boot Camp - Apple Support

Format external HDD for Macbook & Laptop

Apologies if this is not the best community for this query. Wasn't quite sure where to put this one.
I have a Western Digital Elements SE 1TB external HDD which I have been using to manually back-up files (mainly music, photos and documents) from a Dell Studio laptop running Windows Vista.
I now have a MacBook Pro and I would like to continue using my external HDD to back-up files from this too.
Can anyone tell me if there is a way to format my external HDD so that I can back-up files from both and also transfer files between the two?
If so, are there any risks associated with this?
Many thanks.

sure no problem asking questions, thats the whole point of a forum.
NTFS is older Microsoft file system (I still use it for Windows 7 so it's not OLD old) it's built for Windows specific security and therefore not mac friendly out of the box. There are 3rd party NTFS readers/writers, but unless are networking to a Windows host you don't get any advantage to NTFS on Mac. My Windows PC and Mac(s) will transfer files to one another from NTFS (on Windows) to Journaled (on Mac) and from Journaled to NTFS without incident as long as I have credentials to log into either machine from the other. On a network it doesn't matter what format I use (no special software needed), but connected directly to a computer those formats suddenly will (NTFS reader/writer software needed for Mac or Journaled reader/writer software for PC).
FAT32 is from back-in-the-DOS-day (File Allocation Table 32 bit) that has a few restrictions:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/314463
Use FAT32 for flash drives and you will be Mac/Win/Unix cross compatible (all restrictions still apply) but I would not day-to-day use it on my "OS" drive.
If you're going to use the system on Macs and exclusively macs I would go with Mac OS Extended (Journaled). If you need to share with Windows later (connect the drive with a USB cable to your Windows box) there are 3rd party packages to allow you to read Journaled drives but for the cost it would possibly make sense buying the adapter for the network and turning it into a NAS or hosting on the Mac and let the PC log into the mac.

Satellite L305D S5895: Win 7 can't find HDD or can't format HDD on clean install

I have a customer's Satellite L305D S5895 laptop. This was shipped to me by the customer who tried to install Windows XP Pro, Vista and none would install.
He said he tried all installation CDs he had and finally gave up on it and shipped it to me.
When I got it the partition were deleted so I tried to install Win 7 and when I do doing a custom install I get an error saying the hard drive can't be formatted on disk 0 or it will give an error that no hard drives were found.
I reset the bios to default and no matter what I do it won't format or find the harddrive. I was going to upgrade the bios but the only way I found to upgrade the bios is after windows is installed.
Anyone got any ideas on this laptop so I can get a system installed. I checked the bios and there is no settings for a sata drive, raid drive or IDE drive so it looks like this version can't be changed.
Thanks for anyone who can help.
Rick

The upgrade instructions do not help, I am not doing a upgrade but a clean install and the Toshiba Software Installer for Windows 7 doesn't look like it will work because it is an .exe file and with no operating system I don't see how it can run but I can't find instructions on how to use the installer
I've tried running tests on the drive to see if it is bad or going bad but after trying about 4 different programs and all having the same results I think the drive may be bad.
All diag programs I've tried boot the computer and show "STARTING PC DOS" and they all stop at that point which I guess is an indication the drive is bad because they can't seem to find it, not sure just guessing as to why all stop at this point.
I've tried SeaTools and Hitachi Drive Fitness Test and a few others only to have them all stop at "STARTING PC DOS"

What's the best App for cleaning/speeding up Mac using Lion?

Can anyone recommend an App for cleaning/speeding up my iMac and Macbook Pro, both of which use Lion?
Hard drive space is not really the issue, but I can't help feeling that my iMac is not as nippy as it used to be - my basic requirements are:
1) Easy to use. I'm a competent user, but no guru.
2) Will confirm details of what is is deleting, cleaning before it does it.
3) Is reliable and won't crash or bugger-up my system.
4) Actually works - as I said, don't really need to reclaim storage, but would like to speed up my mac
5) Doesn't cost the earth.
You thoughts would be much appreciated.
Cheers all,
Simon.

Do the below and keep your boot drive below 50% filled and not more that 80%, that's about all you can do without a full reinstall of the OS.
12: OnyX cache cleaning
Category: OS X, application and User account software related
Description: Gives OS X, application and user account caches a enema, lets then rebuild again new, resolves strange and unknown issues based on cache files being corrupted .
Only cache files are removed, not users data, files, programs or OS X. Some settings will be set back to normal in Finder and other locations. Spotlight will rebuild a new database.
Problems possibly resolved: Varied: Flash install issues, Dock/Finder/File issues, "ghost files", performance and privacy related
Instructions:
Apple doesn't supply a easy method for the user to self clean the caches, thus we have to turn to third party software.
Use the free OnyX matching your OS X version and run all the initial checks, stop if any give a warning, you have a bigger problem. See #4
Run though all the Maintenance and Cleaning aspects (except don't delete the log files) and reboot at the end (must)
You must be through running all the maintenance and cleaning aspects as this is a "catch all" method and any number of corrupted caches may be responsible for your issues. You need to REBOOT at the end of using OnyX. Canceling the in-between reboot requests is fine.
Read Step #13 and perform the Verify > Preferences before rebooting at the end of using OnyX.
Get the free OnyX here: http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/11582/onyx More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OnyX
Just a few of OnyX many successes:
https://discussions.apple.com/message/18377471?ac_cid=sa123456#18377471
https://discussions.apple.com/message/18421933?ac_cid=sa123456#18421933
https://discussions.apple.com/message/18579487?ac_cid=sa123456#18579487

What Format Is Used for eprint Emails?

I'm interested in generating eprint jobs from a Linux machine, so I'm wondering what format is used, and how you cope with email gateways which can accomodate messages of limited size.
Can somebody assist please?
Regards ..

Hi Graham,
Try keeping the email size to less than 5MB for faster printing.
http://h71036.www7.hp.com/hho/us/en/ep/articles/eprint-mobile-printing.html
What e-mail clients can I use?The following e-mail clients have been tested by HP ePrint*:
Outlook 2003, 2007
Hotmail, Yahoo! Mail, Gmail
Apple Mail (iPhone, iPad, Macbook, Macbook Pro )
BlackBerry mail client
Nokia/Symbian client (Nokia)
What attachments can I send?HP ePrint will print e-mail attachments for the following file types**:
Microsoft Word
Microsoft PowerPoint
Microsoft Outlook
Microsoft Excel
HTML
Text files (.txt)
PDF
Images (bmp, jpg, png, gif, tiff)
Do e-mail attachments have size limits? There is a 5 MB total limit, and a maximum of 10 attachments to a single e-mail. E-mails that exceed these limits will not print.
Hope this helps.
I work for HP.

What the maximum hdd for iMac (2009-Early)

hi
What the maximum hdd can i put it for my iMac (2009-Early)
and can i put ssd??
my hdd now is
WD3200AAJS-40H3A0

The largest currently available for a notebook drive is 1.5 GBs. Yes, you can put in an SSD.

What format is needed for movies to add to library

Hi
I have a lot of movies ( backups of purchased dvds ) which i would like to store in my iTunes library on a NAS drive.
They are mainly avi and mp4. some import ok others don't and i am assuming it is to do with the format.
What format do i have to have these in for iTunes to be able to import them into the library??
Any suggestions for free or v.cheap converters?
thanks

Hi good question,
All files need to be converted to mp4 to do this you need to select the movie in iTunes and click advanced then create iPod or iPhone version-or- create iPad or apple tv version

What format's best for burning iDVD project?

I have a two hour documentary I'm hoping to burn in iDVD.
Using Quicktime Pro and/or Mediaclip I created files in these formats: .dv, m4v, mov.
Given the length of the film, what format file should I import into my iDVD project?
Thanks very much.
Bohdan

First recommendation is to not exceed 2 hours of QuickTime playback (120 mins) for SL media (and twice that for DL). It's actually smart to keep it a few mins. shy of the stated duration/s.
Secondly, here are the files which work best:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=iDVD/7.0/en/6655.html

What format is it for DVD's?

My friend send me a movie, and it didn't work because the format was incorrect, she then sent me another one and it worked. What format are you suppose to have on your ipod touch to play dvd's,music videos - anything.

As shown on the iPod touch specifications page, the video formats it supports are:
H.264 video, up to 1.5 Mbps, 640 by 480 pixels, 30 frames per second, Low-Complexity version of the H.264 Baseline Profile with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats; H.264 video, up to 2.5 Mbps, 640 by 480 pixels, 30 frames per second, Baseline Profile up to Level 3.0 with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats; MPEG-4 video, up to 2.5 Mbps, 640 by 480 pixels, 30 frames per second, Simple Profile with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats

What format to use for iDvd.

Hello and thank you for reading.
I am currently saving home videos onto my hard drive as .dv files via iMovie events. I am also using iMovie to cut these files however I see fitting.
I am trying to find a format to convert these files so that it will provide clarity once they are burned onto a dvd (via iDvd) and will not be an overwhelming size (each hour of .dv footage is about 12 gb). Thanks for the help.

As Klaus says, .dv is excellent for bringing into iDVD for creating DVDs. In terms of storage for any future editing, highlights, compilations, etc. you can:
* send your video back out to tape (full resolution storage, but flattens titles and transitions into the video; need a tape reader in the future)
* retrieve the desired video from the DVDs or disc image (mpeg-2 format is fine for viewing, but it's tossing lots of content; eg, at 12 gigs per hour in .dv format, it's about 4 gigs when compressed into mpeg-2 format. The format conversion tools keep getting better, but that's a big gap to overcome).
* use large hard drives to store .dv format files (storage keeps getting cheaper and I like the flexibility of this option since the video is relatively uncompressed).
Personally, I keep the original files and a virtual DVD (disc image) so I can easily make another DVD for someone (from the disc image) or I can jump back into the details of that project.
John

On windows 7 what format on hdd for clean install on mac

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