MSI X58M IOH Heatsink - Reapplying Thermal Paste

Hey guys, I just got a MSI X58M, and although I haven't tested temperatures yet, I want to deal with this IOH issue right now.
First off, is the IOH the one with the fins and the ICH the one with the MSI logo?
What procedures should I use for taking off both of these heatsinks?
How should I clean the existing paste off, and how should I reapply the Noctua NT-H1 I have? More specifically, what materials do I need to clean off the heatsinks and what method should I use to reapply the thermal paste. Then, how do I reinstall the heatsink onto the IOH/ICH?
Thanks for your help!

Quote
I haven't tested temperatures yet, I want to deal with this IOH issue right now.
Yes, the heatsink with the fins is the IOH. The Logo'd heatsink is the ICH. Before you take everything apart, I would recommend you read this link, & then the other links listed within it, to read & learn 'how to' should you decide to go ahead with a redo.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129940.0

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Reapply thermal paste? Last gen black MacBook fans running.

Hi.
I have a black MacBook (MacBook4,1) that seems to get pretty hot sometimes. It happens even when I'm not running Illustrator, Aperture, or Photoshop. It can also happen when I visit a site without flash.
I had to replace the top case last year because someone poured water into the keyboard.
I'm thinking I may have ruptured or otherwise unseated the heatsinks, which may have displaced some of the thermal paste's contact with the heatsink. The computer was purchased in early 2008, so it's kind of old.
Would it benefit me to replace the thermal paste between the processor and the heatsink? How much of a pain is it to do that?

My computer is a bit older than yours and I have never seen that problem with this machine.
Have you checked Activity Monitor (Applications>Utilities) to see if any processes are using more than 30% of your CPU?
~Lyssa

Msi 290x lightning warranty after thermal paste change

hello
i have a MSI lightning 290x and recently changed the Thermal paste..is my card still in warranty?
i'm asking because of the sticker in one of the 4 screw.
Thank you in advance
ps i live in EU

Quote from: badboy2k on 11-May-15, 18:32:12
as long as you where careful and did not Physically damage the card your warranty will be fine (the sticker is mainly there to deter people from just taking the cooler off and damaging the card who have no idea what they are doing) but if you want official confirmation contact MSI >>How to contact MSI.<<
ok
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I lifted my heatsink, do I need to reapply thermal paste?

Hi evrybody.
So I bought a used Sawtooth about a week ago, and long story short the mobo might have been fried in an experiment. While the computer was down I took the CPU off the mobo to smell if it's fried as well. Then I took off the heat sink to check it out. So like my title says, do I have to re apply the paste?

Thanks.

MOVED: msi 290x lightning warranty after thermal paste change

This topic has been moved to Graphics Cards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=255588.0

Quote from: badboy2k on 11-May-15, 18:32:12
as long as you where careful and did not Physically damage the card your warranty will be fine (the sticker is mainly there to deter people from just taking the cooler off and damaging the card who have no idea what they are doing) but if you want official confirmation contact MSI >>How to contact MSI.<<
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How can I successfully reapply the thermal paste in my MacBook Pro? (2008)

I'm having issues with keeping my computer cool, mainly while playing games like SC2 that require a good amount of power. I've downloaded fan control apps, bought cooling pads (usb powered) and still no luck in cooling this thing down. I recently learned that Apple for some reason applies the thermal paste too thick, which can cause the computers to be a lot hotter than they should be.
I'm not worried about voiding warranty, seeing as I don't even have a warranty. I've already opened it up to upgrade the ram and the hard drive so I know my way around inside there and have the stuff I need in order to do it properly.
What I need to know is where I can get the thermal paste, what kind I need, how it needs to be applied and with what (as well as how to get the old paste off), the steps I need to take in order to get to where this paste is even at inside the computer...etc.
If there's anyone who's already successfully pulled this off, lemme know how you did it and if it helped any. I've read there've been significant temp drops since reapplying it in a lot of these pros, so I'm just interested.

Hi
I’ve yet to remove the heatsinks of the CPU and GPU on my MBP. But I’ve replaced CPU and GPU heatsinks on my PC many times, so hopefully you’ll find my suggestions helpful.
1st use the laptop for a bit to get both the CPU and GPU warmed up so it will be easier to remove the heatsinks.
Remove the back cover and run your hands over the back side of the metal cover few time to get ride of any static charge that might be there (or any unprinted metal surface will do).
Remove the screws and heatsink one at a time. You might find the thermal past dried up (happens when company used cheap past and after computer is used for few years). Use tissues to wipe the past off both cores and heasinks.
You can also buy thermal past remover and clearer such as this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-ArctiClean-Material-Purifier/dp/B000BKP306 /ref=pdbxgy_computers_textb
I normally use Arctic Silver Thermal Paste, I found it's the best past around, and everybody I know are happy with it.
There are two ways to apply the past. If your CPU is a Core2Duo, than you can just put a little bit on the center and press down with the heatsink. This is because the 2 cores on the CPU are located near the center of the processor so it does not matter if the edges are not covered with past.
Or if you want to play safe, you can cover the enter CPU with an even thin lay of past using a flat plastic card.
When it comes to thermal past, less is more, you only want little bit to cover up the metal cover on the processor. I say no more than 0.5 mm thick.
Cover the entire GPU with past as well, I’m not sure if the RAMs on your graphic card are cooled by the heatsinks. If they are, you might need some thermal pads for them.
You’ll find the whole process quite easy as long as you take your time. You can found lots of info on this with Google and Youtube.
Good luck and don’t forget to give the heatsinks a clean with a can of compassed air before you put them back on.

Heatsink Thermal Paste Random Shutdown Revelation

Symptom: Random freezes, overheating problems, random shutdowns if pressure not applied to top or bottom of computer
Solution: Make sure screws are tight!!
Model: Mid 2007, pre-Unibody
Screws: The two torx screws under the memory panel
I've been doing TONS of searching to try and solve a problem with my macbook pro freezing, even at low temperature. I have seen many people that have had VERY similar symptoms as me, and would constantly discuss having to re-apply thermal grease. I have only applied thermal grease once (arctic silver) and was having these problems. As I disassembled it today getting ready to reapply it, I pondered carefully while taking apart my macbook for the billionth time. I thought about the points in which I had to apply pressure in order for my macbook to power on properly and not freeze. When I got to the torx screws, I realized these were responsible for clamping the logic board to the bottom case. It is most likely quite important that they be properly tightened, as these are basically the heatsink-processor mating screws!! There should probably be a torque rating for these, as I would be afraid of tightening them too much and breaking the plastic they screw into. Also, I would alternate back and forth between them.
I had recently transferred my logic board from my MBP to a used one I purchased which has the defective logic board (I plan to bake some time in the future). There were many reasons I purchased the additional MBP, but it was mostly due to mine being in really bad physical condition (dropped, marked up, material loss on upper case at palm area), having a bad display (I bought a replacement but spilt liquid on it) (also had the keyboard/trackpad disconnect issue, but I frankensteined the connector, which I had broke as well, to ultimately work perfectly again). I had THOUGHT I had another problem with the issues in the subject of this post. I was taking apart my original MBP a lot for my display replacement, as well as memory and hard drive upgrades. That's when I first started getting issues with strange freezes and shutdowns. I believe that this lack of tightening of torx screws was the problem even when my logic board was in my original case. The problem definitely became a lot more frequent when I transferred it to the new/used case and in the process cleaned and re-greased the processors. I had trained myself to not tighten those screws enough, and this was especially bad when the new thermal paste needed to be squished down.
This has been quite a frustrating issue to deal with for the past 6 months or so. A year ago I purchased a brand new adapter and battery from Apple, and I was fearing that they had gone bad (I have the fraying at the magsafe connector....should have taken better care of it, but it can be repaired). Luckily the only loss from this whole dilemma has been a lot of time and a couple hundred to purchase a 2nd machine used, which was actually a great buy. Hopefully I'll bake the bad logic board and get the 2nd machine up and running some day, at the very least it's spare parts! It is great to have the perfect condition LCD and nice condition case.

Alright, so I got to the point where I was having the problem nice and consistently. It happened to be when my battery was low on charge (I believe this can happen with a high charge too though...). I experimented with having the battery in and out and was able to reproduce the problem even with the battery removed.
When I was repeating the shutdown failure (it would happen exactly this way when my computer would freeze during normal or non-use <randomly> and would try to turn it back on) I could turn it on if I was tilting the comp, then I would tilt it back toward resting and it would shut off. I did this with the battery in and out, so I could at least rule the battery out. I then started playing with the top case a bit. I noticed the more I had it removed, the more often it seemed to turn on. I found that bringing the top case down would trigger the shutdown.
There seems to be some sort of grounding issue. I honestly have never been super careful with pads and tape, so missing one of those might be the cause.

Reapplied the thermal paste, now the fans kick in too early - downgrade FW?

First of all, I have not forgotten to attach the temp sensor as previously mentioned. I was quite lucky that everything went well.
My MBP is now 60 C top at almost full load (doing video at 80% load) and runs 48 in idle.
Which is incredible but it's also loud. Even when idle the fans run faster than the minimal speed, which is obviously caused by better heat conductance. When under load the fans quickly begin to spin full speed. As I said I havn't topped the 60 C mark yet.
Partly I think this has to do with the SMC firmware update, as Apple tweaked the fans to spin up earlier.
What I'm looking for is a way to get the old threshold setting back (the one before the smc firmware update). So that my MBP is as cold as possible but also more quiet than now.
And I read that there is a way of editing some powermanagment settings in order to change the threshold but havn't been able to google it.

Maybe it's my english, but the fans don't go full speed all the time. Now as I barely started the MBP and just surfed the internet a bit, I have fans running at their minimum.
And they stay on minimum as long as I don't do any harder work. Let's say start playing iTunes with visualization on.
As for the skills. I'm not professionally trained, but I've been building my own PCs for a couple of years now. Never laptops, obviously, as they come already built. And yes I also have a copy of the Service Manual that was floating around. I think I tend to infrom myself very carefully before doing any such work. That's probably I'm a medical student, which brings us to thermodynamics.
Apple defenitely applied too much termal paste, which has the effect that instead of filling in only the microscopic spaces of air between the heatsink and CPU, the thermal paste actually forms a layer between the CPU and heatsink. And generally speaking the thermal grease is a worse conductor than the CPU/Heatsink junction, but still much better than small spaces of air that would be between the CPU and Heatsink if no thermal paste was applied.
Strangely my girlfriend has a MBP which doesn't get as hot as mine. But her was bought in august, mine in april, so Apple might have looked into the problem themself.
About the Apple support thing:
I'm from Slovenia, the official Apple seller ( www.epl.si ) has a very rude way of customer support. Luckily I live very near the Austrian border, so I bought my MBP in Austria.
Well it seems to me that controlling the fans isn't yet possible on the MBP, as noone was able to point into any direction.

Was there ever a resolution to the thermal paste issue? Worth reapplying?

Last time I checked these forums was a month ago and people were debating whether there was any concrete benefit to popping open the MBP and reapplying thermal grease. For each guy that said it helped, another said it did nothing. Was there ever a consensus or official resolution to this debate?

Save your money. Besides if you take the computer to an authorized Apple repair center they will not do the work unless you have an authorization from Apple Customer Service. They will not authorize the work unless there is something specifically malfunctioning. If you really want the thermal paste re-applied you will have to do it yourself. This requires a complete disassembly of the computer and some special drivers.
If you read the article I referenced you will note that there is little point to replacing the paste.
You can download and install an extension called Speedit.kext along with a companion program called CoreDuoTemp (www.versiontracker.com, www.macupdate.com, or www.increw.org) and use it to monitor the CPU's core temperature. Unless it's running hotter than "normal" there's really nothing to worry about. Normal temps typically range between 50-75 C under loads varying from 2-30 percent or more.

Improving the alignment of the IOH heatsink in a X58 Pro

Hi
In order to reduce my IOH temps, I removed the push pins. Then I noticed some sticky substance instead of thermal paste. I put some arctic silver. Now here is what happens. Temps are in 60s (from 80s) but if I press down the heatsink a little lightly, it drops to 47! So I guess its bad mechanical alignment + crappy thermal paste thats causing all this pain.
How do I improve the mechanical alignment and further reduce my IOH temps? Wouldnt mind the 47deg. My friend's UD4P has an IOH temp of ~40C!!!
-D

If the temp reduces when you press down on the IOH heatsink, that means the torque pressure is not enough. If you have access to a torque screwdriver, Intel has a specific amount, & was 50 PSI the last time I checked. Confirm at Intels web site if it is still the recommended torque. If your hardware will tighten up without taking the board loose again, only you would know that.
Honestly, unless the IOH temp hits above 95c (tControl) on a regular basis, there should be '0' performance or data loss, or component life problems. That summation is as per Intel's data.
As a side note, unless grossly overvolted or otherwise user abused, I haven't seen or heard about any Intel X58 chip failures yet on an MSI board.
Added: Replacing push pins with nylon washers nuts & bolts, is the ultimate solution. I used #4-40's.

Can a bubble in thermal paste make CPU temp range 39ºC-60ºC?

Hello.
I've read the postits above and they say 45 ºC idle is very likely the heatsink spreader is not properly seated or the temperature is wrong.
But, what if idle temp is about 39 on the heatsink (meassured with a termometer) and the bios says CPU temp is 39? Does that mean I did well with thermal paste and heatsink? Does that mean the motherboard is reading the righ temperature?
It could look like I am asking a very easy question, but I feel it is not. Just go on reading.
I need to know if BIOS does actually provide the rigth temp because:
When the system heats up due to CPU under heavy load, CPU temp goes up to 50-55 ºC sometimes even close to 60 ºC. Could that mean there is an air bubble within the thermal paste but it is too small to interfere when cold enough (40ºC) but big enough when warm (50ºC) lowering heatsink performance and rising CPU temp up to 60 ºC?
Also sys temp is very high. It never gets below 50 ºC but I do not know where that sys temp is taken, and as I have the NB-fan connector conected to the power supply fan, I do not know what that sys temp means. :(
Room temp is around 25 ºC.
It does boot OS and I can actually play games (heavy load for graphics card and CPU). All readings I take were got from CoreCenter application at stock settings (Vcore 1.42 - FSB 201 - Mem volt 2.5 - AGP volt 1.5).
I am afraid of having done a nice job with thermal paste. I know (just read it here) I could easily fry the CPU if not, and I feel 55-60 ºC is too much, isn't it? Of course if BIOS readings are right.
BTW. Here follow details on the system:
CPU: AMD 64 3000+ NewCastle
CPU Family/Model/Step: 15.12.0
Thermal compound: Artic Silver 5
CPU Heatsink: Thermaltake Silent Boost K
Motherboard: MSI K8N Platinum
Motherboard BIOS: 1.4 (08/26/2004)
Graphics Card: Sapphire ATI Radeon 9800 SE AIW (not modded in any way)
Power Supply: Enermax 465 W [EG-465AX-VE(W)FMA]
Case: Lian Li PC-V1000
Mem, hdd, dvd-rw, floppy and D-bracket are present but did not feel necesary to provide details on them.
Thanks

Well, if your heatsink is cold and your CPU temp on BIOS is hot there are two possible reassons:
[list=1]
BIOS 1.4 does not guarantee accurate CPU temp readings
Heatsink is not properly seated on the CPU or thermal paste has bubbles within[/list=1]
But that is not my situation. I do know CPU readings are accurate when it shows 39 ºC because I actually used a termometer in contact with the heatsink to meassure it.
What I am not sure is if that accuracy is so when the CPU is hot (>50ºC) as it is when cold (

K8T Neo - Thermal Paste - Temperature

hi guys...
I just bought a KT8 Neo and a AM64 2800 processor in a box, when i check the temp it says 50C , is this ok?, all the time i bought and AMD always had this problem, my solution was buy another cooler, but that was in Socket A..
Anybody had remove the gray thermal paste that comes with the standard cooler of AMD, and replace it with other one?
TIA

Quote from: Monkeydee on 21-March-05, 12:51:17
i'm having a similar problem
the big difference being that i'm using the K8 TT silent boost and i'm also using the thermal compound that's provided with the K8 silent boost.
this seems to be a problem with windows not reading the temp properly as reported by the bios.
i usually get temps that are idle 39-40C and load 49-51C. however, i'll boot up my systme and be greeted with 22C idle and about 26C under full load. upon feeling the heatsink i can tell you that it's definately not 22C or 26C.
when i boot my systme up for the first time in the early afternoon (i leave it off when i'm asleep and at school) i've gone into my bios and seen the temp reported at 43-45C, which is completely accurate. then when i boot into windows i get 22C. so i leave my system to run D2OL (a DC program) for 2 hours. then i'll reboot my system and go inot the bios to see my temp and it's reported as 48C, which is also relatively accurate.
so as i said before, it's a problem with the way that windows is reading the temp from the bios.
my processor is an Athlon64 2800+ S754
my motherboard is an MSI K8T800 neo-fsr
Standard problem of MSI board, K8T with temperature reading.
I have in full load 51 degrees. Change your CPU fan speed to manual, no termal cruise, example in Speed Fan, or setup to 2500 RPM and all be done, tepmerature is on 51 on full load.

Add thermal paste ?

Simple question ...
I'll get in a week or 2 a K8& Neo2 F with an AMD athlon 64 3200+.
I'd like to know If I need to add thermal paste on the CPU, or if there is some coming woth the FAN with a sticker to remove ?
Many Thanks !

I have found that is useful to have a syringe of thermal paste around because if you don't quite seat the heatsink then you have to reapply the stuff.
I use Akasa 450 Silver and has never let me down and is cheaper than AS5, I got a big tube of that from eBay for about £1.50.
Avoid Stars 700 if you are the sort of person that does not enjoy ultra high temperatures, frequent BSOD and lots of heat and sluggish performance, I bought an emergency sachet of that crud and it was like silver wax, a CPU that usually idles around the 30 mark never idled under 40 and peak getting near the sixty was scary.
I saw that on Newegg that I was not the only one either although surprisingly it was the AMD customers that had the problem, the old Celeron's thought it pretty good stuff.
There is a review out there somewhere where an enterprising chap reviewed Stars 700 alongside salad cream, mayonnaise, toothpaste and it performed very badly indeed against these comestible products...
Thermaltakes white goop was very good when I had some.
AO

MacBook Pro (mid 2010, 15", i5) - heat, thermal paste and genius bar...

Hi all,
I'd like some advice. I own a mid 2010 core i5 15" MBP which I purchased when they were released (April 2010 or something like that). Since then the laptop has worked more or less OK but it's always been plagued with high temperatures, 75C+ in idle... with basically nothing running or something light such as just Safari (*without* Flash, as I only open Chrome when a website I need doesn't work without Flash; everywhere else, for example YouTube etc, I just use the HTML5 version of the players). The fans stay almost always at 6K rpm, and only rarely they run at a lower speed - when for example I switch the laptop on after having left it switched off for a while, etc. So the fans seem to work OK and seem to respond to the temperature; I have even tried resetting SMC several times, but no difference.
It just looks like the CPU runs hotter than it should. I have default energy saving settings, and don't have any software installed that may keep the CPU running high - such as Caffeine, SmartSleep, etc. Anyway, even a clean install of the OS (Lion) won't make any difference. If I leave the laptop switched off for a while and I switch it on again, within a minute or two the temperature is high again even if I don't open anything else. Even if in the activity monitor there's nothing using a lot of CPU. The temperature also does go further up if I run something CPU intensive such as Handbrake.
While the laptop has worked almost always OK (I do think that some freezes or other occasional stability issues may also depend on temperature), I don't think it's running as well as it could / should from a temperature point of view.
I have read lots of discussions in here and elsewhere, and from direct experience with other laptops (Apple and not) in the past, I believe the issue may likely be related to poor application of the thermal paste. I could re-apply it (for example the AS5 or similar) myself very easily, but I don't want to void the warranty.
I have the 3-years Apple Care, but I have never needed to ask Apple for support before, so I don't know how it works.
Sorry for the lengty introduction... here's the questions:
- Can I just go to the nearest Apple Store (London, Regent St.) or am I *required* to book an appointment with the "genius" bar?
- Is it likely they will take into consideration my advice to reapply the thermal paste as this is quite likely the source of the problem?
- What is the likelihood that they may just replace my laptop with a newer one?
- Does the AppleCare entitle me with some particular privileges for what concerns support?
- I have also upgraded the RAM to 8GB a few months ago, and replaced the HDD (which I use as external drive) with an SSD. Do I need to restore the original components in the laptop before going to the AppleStore? Or is this not needed since RAM and HDD are user-replaceable parts?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
Vito

Hello V-MA!
I found this webpage: http://osx86.wikidot.com/known-issues#toc1
by googeling for "com.apple.NVDAResman"
Probably you have to remove the Geforce Grafic drivers as discribed here. But please wait until some others in the forum confirm this.
If you don't understand how to do these commands with Terminal, ask once again for help.
In your message you did not metion, that you just updated 1 hour and something your OS ("System uptime in nanoseconds: 6688834587150"). This is an important information.
marek

MSI X58M IOH Heatsink - Reapplying Thermal Paste

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